Sub frame connector recommendation?

92LimEd · 10-18-2002, 03:28 PM

I've got a 92 limited edition convertible and would like to prevent any drooping in the frame. It's still in good shape at 65k, but I'm beginning to add some power to it and don't want to twist anything. Additional structural rigidity, better weight transfer, etc is also what I'm looking for. Any suggestions on sub frame connectors, bolt on vs. welded? Thanks.

MTU 50 · 10-18-2002, 03:35 PM

Definately welded. Full-Length subframe connectors like the type I have do a great job. BUT, they cost more money and the installation process is more involved. I don't have a welder (yet), so I had a shop install them. It took the guys in the shop 3 hours with two guys working on it. I was lucky to only pay $150 in labor. That muffler shop I took them too usually charges $75 to weld in "regular" subframe connectors.

You may not want the added hasle and cost of full-length, but you should at least get "regular" subframes and have them welded in.

ols0051 · 10-18-2002, 05:27 PM

I've got an 89 gt convert, and I installed (welded) sub frame connectors.the connectors made the car feel more ridged.they will make the ride as tight feeling as a hard top.That's just my opinion.I didn't like the amount of body flex my convertable gave the feel of.But I also installed a strut tower brace at the same time so, it could be a combination of the two working together.Well worth the effort.

Hozer 88GTConv · 10-18-2002, 09:19 PM

I recommend not only the weld-on full length subs, but I recommend the heavy guage tubular ones. NOT the square off connectors.

10-18-2002, 03:28 PM	#1
92LimEd Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 3	Sub frame connector recommendation? I've got a 92 limited edition convertible and would like to prevent any drooping in the frame. It's still in good shape at 65k, but I'm beginning to add some power to it and don't want to twist anything. Additional structural rigidity, better weight transfer, etc is also what I'm looking for. Any suggestions on sub frame connectors, bolt on vs. welded? Thanks.

10-18-2002, 03:35 PM	#2
MTU 50 GOT TORQUE ???? Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: New Hudson, Michigan, USA Posts: 689	Definately welded. Full-Length subframe connectors like the type I have do a great job. BUT, they cost more money and the installation process is more involved. I don't have a welder (yet), so I had a shop install them. It took the guys in the shop 3 hours with two guys working on it. I was lucky to only pay $150 in labor. That muffler shop I took them too usually charges $75 to weld in "regular" subframe connectors. You may not want the added hasle and cost of full-length, but you should at least get "regular" subframes and have them welded in. __________________ 1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s, Pulleys, H-pipe, MAC Pro-Dumps, FMS c-springs, and KYBs, A/c delete, 190 LPH fuel pump, 3-row radiator, Maximum Motorsports full length subframes 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada(wife's car) 2005 Ford Taurus SEL (company ride) GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS !!!!

10-18-2002, 09:19 PM	#4
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	sub-frames... I recommend not only the weld-on full length subs, but I recommend the heavy guage tubular ones. NOT the square off connectors. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

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10-18-2002, 05:27 PM	#3
ols0051 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: cent.wis Posts: 203	I've got an 89 gt convert, and I installed (welded) sub frame connectors.the connectors made the car feel more ridged.they will make the ride as tight feeling as a hard top.That's just my opinion.I didn't like the amount of body flex my convertable gave the feel of.But I also installed a strut tower brace at the same time so, it could be a combination of the two working together.Well worth the effort.