86-93 MUSTANG Throttle Body Bypass Kit +8HP
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481588992&catego ry=33558

I saw this on ebay and I am wondering if it really works. Has anyone tried it?

HOW IT WORKS (?)
How this mod works is that manufacturer's run a coolant line to and from your factory throttle body. After driving for awhile, your coolant will reach temperatures of up to 210F ...this hot coolant running through the throttle body heats up the air entering the engine and hurts performance. This can hurt your drag racing quarter mile times by as much as 3 tenths. When you bypass the coolant lines to and from your throttle body, it will keep the air entering the engine up to 40 degrees cooler giving your engine its maximum performance output.

I've heard of that theory too. It sounds reasonable....

why does coolent run through the TB? and what does this system do, bypass the entire colling system and just run hose from one end on the TB to the other in a closed loop?

The reasoning for the coolant going into the TB is for in the cold climate areas, such as in Canada or Northern US where the temps drop to at or below freezing. The coolant flows into the TB and keeps the TB from being froze shut.

Although if you dont' live in a cold area, or dont' do winter driving then this does nothing for you but make incoming air warm up, by heating up the TB.

Yeppers...
 

Yes the coolant runs through the TB for colder climate areas. Think of it as a choke for fuelie motors. I have seen this mod, and yes it does work. However, I'd be very surprised if it knocked off THREE TENTHS! It does work though.

Coolant lines pass through the EGR spacer on a 5.0L to keep that area's temperatures under control, as well as a Michigan-proofing. I've seen people block them off, and it's okay on an application where EGR is disabled. However, the intake temperature will skyrocket without the coolant flowing through if it is working as designed.

Seriously, I don't think this will do $hit for any more power or fuel economy. At the rate the air is flowing past the throttle body, just how much heat do you think is being transferred to the intake charge? At wide open throttle, most of the air is not contacting the throttle body's bore, either. Come on, let's be realistic. Even in the days of carburetors, that heat stove on the exhaust manifolds could hardly get the intake stream above ~150F. Even at a lower temperature, the air would be warmed up by the time it gets to the plenum and runners from ordinary engine heat.

Do it yourself for $3. There are two line that go inot the TB, one in front, one in back. Both lines plug into the black coolant tube that feeds into the firewall. Just buy 2 caps that fit over those nubs on the black coolant tube, and clamp them down. Your done.


BTW - 8Hp gain from this is bulllshit.

If you're still running the factory EGR, I would just leave the coolant lines alone.

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Have you ever touched the upper intake manifold after you have been running your car? I guarantee between that, and the heat generated in the lower intake manifold by your heads, the coolant lines in the TB are doing nothing to heat your intake charge that the intake man isnt doing. Its a waste of money. But as already stated, if you feel you must do it, it can be dont very cheap. Definately not worth whatever you will pay for a kit on ebay. BTW - your link doesnt work. You have to put the URL in the second window when inserting a hyperlink. The first window is for the text you want to the link to appear as.

Just use a aluminum brake line and hook the lines together and bypass the EGR. Just like the Cobra intake does.

Coolant loop to the TB is not for cold weather operation. Think about it, when the car's cold, the coolant is cold so there is no 'choke' effect. Coolant is routed to the TB to purposely raise the intake air charge temperature for emission purposes. By raising the air charge temperature, the NOx emissions are reduced. NOx is the most harmful of the products of combustion.

Eliminating both the coolant loop and EGR function are of good benefit for all-out performance. As someone else mentioned, both of these work to increase the intake temperature and thereby reduce air charge density and resulting HP. If you're not too emission/EPA-minded, block the coolant path and completely remove the EGR for added performance. Also install a phenolic spacer and use freeze plugs to block the EGR ports between the upper/lower intakes. All this will lead to a cooler intake plenum and result in a more dense intake charge and increased HP. The EGR valve is closed at WOT, so it's not dumping exhaust stream when you're on it, but the rest of the time it is partially open and heating your intake up while you cruise around town, up to staging or back from a run. Eliminate EGR all-together. Have a chip burnt to shut the EGR function off in the computer and you won't get the related codes when you check them.

Its more of an "in theory" mod. I did it with copper tubing surrounded by a rubber hose. I think the 8 hp, 3 tenths thing is just to get people to by the cheap thing. Dont waste money, make one yourself if you really want to do it.