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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,311
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![]() Ok, first off, I noticed that there seems to be a lot of condensation in my right front headlight. I don't know how water got in there, but how difficult would it be to get it out? Would Ford just give me a new headlight assembly?
Second, I recall that when I took my GT to the track, I left the OD (overdrive) on. Would I have been quicker with OD turned off? Maybe that's a dumb question, but I never turn OD off, so I really don't know. Thanks.
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Black 2000 GT Auto V2-SQ, Full Steeda G-trac Suspension, Baer Brakes, Saleen Body Kit, Corbeau CR1s, Chrome Cobra R's, etc, etc... 341rwhp, 338 torque 1994 Cobra #4343 Bolt on's only... Cofounder of Raccoon Racing |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 12
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![]() Stoplight Warrior, Yes definetly turn the traction control OFF. When you give the car enough throttle to chrip the tires, the traction control will limit power to the wheels to control the wheel spin. Always remeber to keep it OFF when racing. By the way I have seen previous posts of yours, and you seem kinda bummed about that 14.5 you ran at the track. Well trust me, get more practice and your car will be faster. The first time I went down the track I ran a tire shredding 14.5 myself. After about a dozen times down the strip, I can pull 13.9's.
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Black 2000 GT C&L 80mm MAF Pro 5.0 Steeda Underdrives and T/A Steeda Subframe Connectors Nitto Drags 275/40 |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,311
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![]() Thanks, black281. I know the car can do better, I do just need some more practice.
You said your ran a 14.5 at first, but you shaved 6 tenths with some practice. Is yours an auto too? Because I can see improving my driving when using a manual tranny, as in my cobra, but with the auto GT, i don't know what more I can do besides put the pedal to the floor! |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 12
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![]() Stoplight Warrior, I reread your original post and noted you ask about overdrive, not traction control. Sorry about giving you wrong info. I really don't see how if O/D was left on that it would make a difference, because you should still be in 3rd (in an auto) when crossing the traps. By the way, to remove the front headlight you were talking about, just open the hood pull the two pins out that keep the headlight in place. They look like a thin piece of sheet metal that has a 90 degree angle on it with a hole on top. You can't miss them. After you pull out the pins the headlight can slide foward and then just disconnect the two connectors (one for the headlight and the other for the turn signal). And yes the dealer should replace that without a problem. I do drive a 5 speed, but when drag racing believe me how good your 60ft. time is will make a huge difference. By the way I see you have some Steeda suspension goodies, how does it help the handling of your car? Are you satisfied with them?
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Black 2000 GT C&L 80mm MAF Pro 5.0 Steeda Underdrives and T/A Steeda Subframe Connectors Nitto Drags 275/40 |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,311
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![]() 281:
First, the dealer is going to replace my headlight, no problem. Second, yeah, I love the Steeda stuff. The car feels a hundred times more stiff, and the springs made the car look better too. I can take turns pretty hard now too, which is cool.
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Black 2000 GT Auto V2-SQ, Full Steeda G-trac Suspension, Baer Brakes, Saleen Body Kit, Corbeau CR1s, Chrome Cobra R's, etc, etc... 341rwhp, 338 torque 1994 Cobra #4343 Bolt on's only... Cofounder of Raccoon Racing |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: MIAMI, FLORIDA, USA
Posts: 50
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![]() well, ive ran my automatic mustang both on o/d. and o/d off my best time was run with o/d off...it was also the last time i have been to the track, but i have done a few passes and timing only gets better....check out my link to see my et.....60' time is also the most important you need to grip on that line if not,you will cross with a high mph, but slower time............ohh well when i drove the car i took it out on first,thru 2nd and d with o/d off..it dropped a tenth of my time..im not sure if it was the od off, or if i gripped on the line better....but like i said my best times where run wth the o/d off.
http://hometown.aol.com/xasiks107x/myhomepage/auto.html
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1998 MUSTANG GT 4.6L /Convertible, Automatic. Flowmasters, JBA shorty headers chrome, X-Pipes custom made, 3.73 Gears FMS, 70MM fms T-BODY, VORTECH SQ-TRIM V2 supercharger (6 lbs), HKS SSQ Blow off valve, Aluminum custom made inlet pipe(gives 1lb. more of boost), 2000 Gt PI heads and cams Machine shop worked, 2000 gt intake manifold , W/BBK Filter, FMS 30 lbs fuel injectors, DIABLO sport chip, PRO-M 80mm, 6:1 FMU VORTECH, BBK Fuel Pump 255 lph, Excel 400 secondary fuel pump, 4-Point HOOKER HEADERS chrome roll bar, NEX Racing bucket seats(19 LBS PER SEAT), 5-Point harnesses, JE CERAMIC FORGED PISTONS & RINGS, MANLEY RODS, Srp pins, and The block was honed and worked in a machine shop, Mark Luton Racing Rear seat delete kit., Cobra Cowl 4" Hood, Saleen S351 wing, TYC tail lights... |
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