Nitto Drag Radials

StreetStang37 · 07-04-2001, 04:19 AM

I just got some Nitto Drag Radial's and run them at about 30#s. I haven't gone to some open road yet to test them so I'm not sure about some stuff. Some say you need to do a 6 second burn out to get them sticky. I don't go to the track (2 hours away but I will be) but I do street race quite a bit as safely as I can.(1) How much better than normal street tires are they when not heated up? Usually with my old tires I would have to slip the clutch out at about 1100 rpm with gradually feeding the gas. When I would floor it, at about 3800 rpm, the tires would still chirp a little all the way to 5000 (then I'd shift). I tried to take off a little fast today to test out the DR's and I slipped the clutch out at 2000 and it bogged before taking off. I might have dumped the cluth faster than usual though.(2) Well, what RPM's should I launch at (w/burn out and w/o)?(3) Also, how exactly do I do a burn out?(4) Do you dump the clutch a 4000 and hold the brake and keep the throttle at 1/2-3/4?(5) Do I need to hold the brake at all? Im talking about dry pavement here, I don't want to do a burn out and end up in the middle of the street, so I've never tested it. I numbered the questions so the older ones don't get forgotten. I appreciate every reply (not the flames though), thanks in advance.

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights

K.C. 5.0 · 07-04-2001, 06:59 AM

I don't have drag radials yet. But, to do a burnout I would hold the clutch in, then put the heal of your right foot on the brake. While holding down the brake put the ball of your foot on the gas. Press slowly down on the gas while letting the clutch out, still holding the brake down. As you feel the tires brake lose let the clutch out fully and hold the gas to desired RPM. I keep the RPM's below 6000 rpm's. Hope this helps. And this is just how I do it. Someone else my have a better way. I feel you get better control this way rather then just dumping the clutch at some high RPM.

StreetStang37 · 07-04-2001, 01:31 PM

Thanks, I'll try that.

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights

StreetStang37 · 07-06-2001, 04:40 AM

I guess nobody else does burn outs in the street...

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1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights

evilmustang · 07-06-2001, 05:00 AM

I burn out kinda the same as K.C. 5.0
except with 1/2 off my foot on the brake the the other 1/2 on the gas I press down and as the engine starts to rev I start to relese the clutch and the tires start to spin without the car moving. Its hard to explain, hopes this help.

Dark_5.0 · 07-06-2001, 12:01 PM

I have Nitto drag radials on my stang and when I burn out I dump the clutch at about 4000 rpm's and hold the brake keeping the rpm's at about 4 grand I burn them out till I get them smoking and on dry pavement that only takes two to three seconds.

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88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers mac cold air fender kit cowl hood nitto drag radials ford racing clutch flow masters h-pipe 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs.
best 60 ft 2.14, best 1/8th 9.65, best 1/4 15.2 @89mph, Stock gears and 3000+ Altitude

Dark_5.0 · 07-06-2001, 12:05 PM

Oh and BTW at the track run them at about 20 pounds do a good burnout, when you see lots of smoke that should be good.

I usually launch at 3000 RPM's and ride the clutch a little bit. You should definiately be able to run at least a 2.1 60ft with the nittos.

Good Luck

------------------
88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers mac cold air fender kit cowl hood nitto drag radials ford racing clutch flow masters h-pipe 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs.
best 60 ft 2.14, best 1/8th 9.65, best 1/4 15.2 @89mph, Stock gears and 3000+ Altitude

07-04-2001, 04:19 AM	#1
StreetStang37 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: San Jose, California USA Posts: 275	Nitto Drag Radials I just got some Nitto Drag Radial's and run them at about 30#s. I haven't gone to some open road yet to test them so I'm not sure about some stuff. Some say you need to do a 6 second burn out to get them sticky. I don't go to the track (2 hours away but I will be) but I do street race quite a bit as safely as I can.(1) How much better than normal street tires are they when not heated up? Usually with my old tires I would have to slip the clutch out at about 1100 rpm with gradually feeding the gas. When I would floor it, at about 3800 rpm, the tires would still chirp a little all the way to 5000 (then I'd shift). I tried to take off a little fast today to test out the DR's and I slipped the clutch out at 2000 and it bogged before taking off. I might have dumped the cluth faster than usual though.(2) Well, what RPM's should I launch at (w/burn out and w/o)?(3) Also, how exactly do I do a burn out?(4) Do you dump the clutch a 4000 and hold the brake and keep the throttle at 1/2-3/4?(5) Do I need to hold the brake at all? Im talking about dry pavement here, I don't want to do a burn out and end up in the middle of the street, so I've never tested it. I numbered the questions so the older ones don't get forgotten. I appreciate every reply (not the flames though), thanks in advance. ------------------ 1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights

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07-04-2001, 06:59 AM	#2
K.C. 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: KC,Mo,US Posts: 70	I don't have drag radials yet. But, to do a burnout I would hold the clutch in, then put the heal of your right foot on the brake. While holding down the brake put the ball of your foot on the gas. Press slowly down on the gas while letting the clutch out, still holding the brake down. As you feel the tires brake lose let the clutch out fully and hold the gas to desired RPM. I keep the RPM's below 6000 rpm's. Hope this helps. And this is just how I do it. Someone else my have a better way. I feel you get better control this way rather then just dumping the clutch at some high RPM.

07-04-2001, 01:31 PM	#3
StreetStang37 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: San Jose, California USA Posts: 275	Thanks, I'll try that. ------------------ 1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights

07-06-2001, 04:40 AM	#4
StreetStang37 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: San Jose, California USA Posts: 275	I guess nobody else does burn outs in the street... ------------------ 1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights

07-06-2001, 05:00 AM	#5
evilmustang Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: compton, CA, USA Posts: 63	I burn out kinda the same as K.C. 5.0 except with 1/2 off my foot on the brake the the other 1/2 on the gas I press down and as the engine starts to rev I start to relese the clutch and the tires start to spin without the car moving. Its hard to explain, hopes this help.

07-06-2001, 12:01 PM	#6
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	I have Nitto drag radials on my stang and when I burn out I dump the clutch at about 4000 rpm's and hold the brake keeping the rpm's at about 4 grand I burn them out till I get them smoking and on dry pavement that only takes two to three seconds. ------------------ 88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers mac cold air fender kit cowl hood nitto drag radials ford racing clutch flow masters h-pipe 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs. best 60 ft 2.14, best 1/8th 9.65, best 1/4 15.2 @89mph, Stock gears and 3000+ Altitude

07-06-2001, 12:05 PM	#7
Dark_5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Staging lane Posts: 4,337	Oh and BTW at the track run them at about 20 pounds do a good burnout, when you see lots of smoke that should be good. I usually launch at 3000 RPM's and ride the clutch a little bit. You should definiately be able to run at least a 2.1 60ft with the nittos. Good Luck ------------------ 88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers mac cold air fender kit cowl hood nitto drag radials ford racing clutch flow masters h-pipe 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs. best 60 ft 2.14, best 1/8th 9.65, best 1/4 15.2 @89mph, Stock gears and 3000+ Altitude