A Question for 94-95 owners concerning 1.7RR INSTALL

SlowStang2 · 09-18-2001, 08:33 PM

OK I just got my M-6564-A50 roller rockers 1.7 "Cobra" and I better prepare myself for an installation done by me.
First of all, should I even attempt to install these myself??? I have done all of the work on my car that consists of the lower intake manifold up. So is this any harder than an injector install for example? In my instructions there are two sections. One for Stud Mounted and one for Bolt-on Types. Remember what I have from my sig. My kit consists of the RRs, the bolts, shims, pedestal insert, and something else that I do not know. It looks like a long plate about 3" long with 2 holes. Do I need to use this?
Yea, obviously I've never even seen this done, but hey you tell me.
Oh yea, the last step in the install says to start the engine and see how the oil flows..THEN it says "install rocker arm cover." Is this the valve cover? Don't tell me its ok to start a car without the covers on...

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.

todd95GT · 09-19-2001, 12:26 AM

Pick up a Chilton or Haynes repair book. Or even better, a shop manual for your car. The rockers are not difficult to install and I believe any handy person with some automotive experience can install them.
As for the starting with the valve cover off (yes, it's synonomous with "rocker" cover)it won't hurt anything but will splash a bit of oil around under the hood. What I recommend and something I have done in the past on my Chevy's is this:
Go to a junkyard a buy a used valve cover for next to nothing. Use some metal snips and cut open the top-one horizontal slit across the top and two vertical slides down the front facing sides of the top. Then bend the top back toward the fender like a can lid. Now you can run the motor, make final adjustments, and visually inspect the rockers and the open-top valve cover will prevent the mess.

------------------
Todd
1995 GT/T-5
Pulleys; 65 mm TB; Flowmaster cat-back; Mac off road H-pipe; FMS aluminum driveshaft; short-throw shifter; HD clutch; Cobra R's; Cobra front and wing

andy669 · 09-19-2001, 01:28 PM

That takes alot of time to pull the upper back off and put the covers back on. I think it'd be easier to just pull the distributor and prime them like you would if you had a new engine. This will be a whole lot cleaner too. Or, you could just do like I did and not worry about it!
andy

------------------
3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

Dark Knight · 09-19-2001, 03:00 PM

if the plate is what I think it is, you need it... it goes under the rocker pedestals.. then the shim, then the pedestal and rocker..
it's not to hard to do, just take your time
as for starting the car with them off, you can.. only takes a second to get oil to them...
BTW, you may have to cut the baffle out of the valve covers because it might hit the rockers...

------------------
84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
13.85@102.5
and a '68 stang that WAS nasty ;-)

moponys · 09-21-2001, 11:41 PM

Are you sure the 1.7 roller rockers will work with your setup. My mechanic told me they would work on mine so I had to get 1.6s

------------------
TFS twisted wedge heads, TFS street intake, Lunati cam .500/.510 218/226, BBK FPR, BBK shorties, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm, ASP pulleys, FMS 3:73, Transgo shiftkit,Flowmasters, Bassani x-pipe, K&N FIPK, FMS 1.6 roller rockers, 9mm wires,24lbs injectors,
190lph fuel pump, MSD cap and rotor, 18" wheels w/street tires, JMS custom chip, Trickflow phenolic spacer. ETs soon to come...

SlowStang2 · 09-22-2001, 12:21 AM

I know they'll work mainly because others have done it. Second of all, I called up Ford Motorsport to ask them questions concerning a problem I was already having in the valve train and they recommended the Cobra 1.7s. I even asked them if these will clear the stock valve covers without any grinding, and they told me they were fine without that too. So, I figured theyd know more than most.

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.

K.C. 5.0 · 09-22-2001, 06:39 PM

moponys- I think the reason they suggested the 1.6rr for you is that you have a cam and SlowStang2 doesn't. The 1.7's are supposed to give you more lift. So they act like a mild cam. You don't need those extra lift if you bought a cam. Hopefully you get the lift you wanted when you picked out your cam. Just my 2 cent.

------------------
95gt 80k, MSD 6AL, MSD coil, pulleys, fpr, cold air kit, off road h-pipe, flowmasters, 3.73, 9mm wires, mega bite jr lowers, kennybrown subframe connectors, edelbrock performer intake, 70mm TB, 73mm C&L, 24lb injectors Aluminum Driveshaft, Tri-Ax shifter.

09-18-2001, 08:33 PM	#1
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	A Question for 94-95 owners concerning 1.7RR INSTALL OK I just got my M-6564-A50 roller rockers 1.7 "Cobra" and I better prepare myself for an installation done by me. First of all, should I even attempt to install these myself??? I have done all of the work on my car that consists of the lower intake manifold up. So is this any harder than an injector install for example? In my instructions there are two sections. One for Stud Mounted and one for Bolt-on Types. Remember what I have from my sig. My kit consists of the RRs, the bolts, shims, pedestal insert, and something else that I do not know. It looks like a long plate about 3" long with 2 holes. Do I need to use this? Yea, obviously I've never even seen this done, but hey you tell me. Oh yea, the last step in the install says to start the engine and see how the oil flows..THEN it says "install rocker arm cover." Is this the valve cover? Don't tell me its ok to start a car without the covers on... ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.

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09-19-2001, 12:26 AM	#2
todd95GT Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, USA Posts: 191	Pick up a Chilton or Haynes repair book. Or even better, a shop manual for your car. The rockers are not difficult to install and I believe any handy person with some automotive experience can install them. As for the starting with the valve cover off (yes, it's synonomous with "rocker" cover)it won't hurt anything but will splash a bit of oil around under the hood. What I recommend and something I have done in the past on my Chevy's is this: Go to a junkyard a buy a used valve cover for next to nothing. Use some metal snips and cut open the top-one horizontal slit across the top and two vertical slides down the front facing sides of the top. Then bend the top back toward the fender like a can lid. Now you can run the motor, make final adjustments, and visually inspect the rockers and the open-top valve cover will prevent the mess. ------------------ Todd 1995 GT/T-5 Pulleys; 65 mm TB; Flowmaster cat-back; Mac off road H-pipe; FMS aluminum driveshaft; short-throw shifter; HD clutch; Cobra R's; Cobra front and wing

09-19-2001, 01:28 PM	#3
andy669 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Moline Il Posts: 901	That takes alot of time to pull the upper back off and put the covers back on. I think it'd be easier to just pull the distributor and prime them like you would if you had a new engine. This will be a whole lot cleaner too. Or, you could just do like I did and not worry about it! andy ------------------ 3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff

09-19-2001, 03:00 PM	#4
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	if the plate is what I think it is, you need it... it goes under the rocker pedestals.. then the shim, then the pedestal and rocker.. it's not to hard to do, just take your time as for starting the car with them off, you can.. only takes a second to get oil to them... BTW, you may have to cut the baffle out of the valve covers because it might hit the rockers... ------------------ 84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.85@102.5 and a '68 stang that WAS nasty ;-)

09-21-2001, 11:41 PM	#5
moponys Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Antioch, CA 94521 Posts: 181	Are you sure the 1.7 roller rockers will work with your setup. My mechanic told me they would work on mine so I had to get 1.6s ------------------ TFS twisted wedge heads, TFS street intake, Lunati cam .500/.510 218/226, BBK FPR, BBK shorties, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm, ASP pulleys, FMS 3:73, Transgo shiftkit,Flowmasters, Bassani x-pipe, K&N FIPK, FMS 1.6 roller rockers, 9mm wires,24lbs injectors, 190lph fuel pump, MSD cap and rotor, 18" wheels w/street tires, JMS custom chip, Trickflow phenolic spacer. ETs soon to come...

09-22-2001, 12:21 AM	#6
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	I know they'll work mainly because others have done it. Second of all, I called up Ford Motorsport to ask them questions concerning a problem I was already having in the valve train and they recommended the Cobra 1.7s. I even asked them if these will clear the stock valve covers without any grinding, and they told me they were fine without that too. So, I figured theyd know more than most. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.

09-22-2001, 06:39 PM	#7
K.C. 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: KC,Mo,US Posts: 70	moponys- I think the reason they suggested the 1.6rr for you is that you have a cam and SlowStang2 doesn't. The 1.7's are supposed to give you more lift. So they act like a mild cam. You don't need those extra lift if you bought a cam. Hopefully you get the lift you wanted when you picked out your cam. Just my 2 cent. ------------------ 95gt 80k, MSD 6AL, MSD coil, pulleys, fpr, cold air kit, off road h-pipe, flowmasters, 3.73, 9mm wires, mega bite jr lowers, kennybrown subframe connectors, edelbrock performer intake, 70mm TB, 73mm C&L, 24lb injectors Aluminum Driveshaft, Tri-Ax shifter.