Changing clutch for the first time...

ed1371 · 02-26-2001, 06:25 PM

Well, I am going on leave tues to go to san diego and replace my clutch.

Any tips on how to make things go smoother? Any first time mistakes that I can avoid?

never done a clutch before so ANY help is appreciated!

ed

------------------
My Mustang

91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 dry kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, fms adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA shorties, JBA subs, JBA strut tower brc, dynomax "super turbo" 2 1/2 exhaust, FMS billit distrib, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC Fenderwell cold air kit, off road h pipe.

Mr 5 0 · 02-26-2001, 08:23 PM

Use a lift if possible; if not, use good jackstands. Buy quality parts; I recommend replacing the flywheel; a stock iron one is only about $100. and you'll avoid problems later (steel is about $225). Replace the throwout bearing as well as the pilot bearing. Worth the cost for peace of mind.
Use a torque wrench (you can rent them) and follow the manual specs for torque and sequence on them.

Basically, follow the 'book' and don't rush or work when you're tired or distracted, as a mistake might ruin expensive parts and have you tearing the whole thing down again a few days later.

Good luck.

buddha · 02-26-2001, 09:58 PM

In my opinion, save some money and resurface the stock flywheel for $20. I don't see any need to buy another, unless you looking to add some major HP. Like Mr. 5.0 says, follow the book and you should have no problems. Also make sure you use a pilot tool for the clutch disc to line it all up. Have fun!

rtz · 02-27-2001, 01:18 AM

If you are trying to do this for the cheapest amount, just change the clutch disc itself since that is what will be worn out.

Get the flywheel resurfaced only if you think it's warped or, if your current clutch chattered. Or if you think it looks like it needs to be resurfaced, and you have a place that can do it. Around here, http://www.oreilyauto.com/ can resurface flywheels, drums, and rotors.

Also, be sure to change out the throwout bearing. It's pretty cheap, and you don't want it going out on you later on.

You might change out the rear main seal on the back of the motor while you are at it too. I always do as I might as well. Saves me from having to do it later.

As for "Any tips on how to make things go smoother", you might go ahead and take loose the shifter boot and that rubber panel under that as it consumes time to do it. Then when you get ready to pull the transmission, unbolt the shifter and remove it.

After that it's just a matter of unbolting the cat back exhaust from the H-Pipe and then disconnecting the H-Pipe from the headers. Undo the Oxygen Senors first though.

Also, the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear end are torqued to like 85 foot pounds if I remember right and atleast on mine, it needed a 12 point socket for those 4 bolts. Make sure you already have that socket before you begin.

Then you have the starter to unbolt, be sure to disconnect the battery first. Then the 4 bolts on the bellhousing and the 2 on the crossmember, and the 2 for the transmission mount. And the clutch cable and the wire for the backup light.

I think that's all there is too it. It's been awhile since I've done it, but I've done it several times before and it's pretty easy, it just takes some time.

If you have a good set of tools and all your parts before hand, it should be pretty easy.

Let us know how it went when you get back.

Good luck.

ed1371 · 02-27-2001, 01:42 AM

Thanks for all the help. As of right now (may end up doing more once I get in there) I am resurfacing the flywheel, replacing the rear main seal, pilot bearing, throwout, disk and pressure plate. I will be doing it at a military auto hobby shop and they have just about anything I need tool wise. I will let you all know how things went when I return.

ed

NoSlow5.0 · 02-27-2001, 02:18 PM

Get some extensions, they come in handy on the top bell housing and trans bolts. Taking off the shifter makes it a little easier to manuver the trans out if the car is not very high off the ground. Mark and store all bolts so that they are put back correctally. And try not to touch the surface of the new plate or disc/put them down on anything. Get an allignment dowl. And by all means....HAVE FUN!! That's what working on the stang is all about. Plus, it's always nice to have a friend to help and mess around with there. Light Em Up!!!

tomazzzo · 03-01-2001, 03:30 PM

try to have a torch of some kind handy. We had to superheat the pilot bearing, and the thermactor tube on the hpipe to get them out on my 93, had to chisel out the pilot on my buddys 85. be careful you dont chew up the outer edge of the socket the bearing goes into. It will be time consuming, but be patient.

------------------
Thomas Monahan
Shreveport, La.

93Reef Blue GT
BBK Ceramic Long Tubes
Flowmaster 2ch system
Pro 5.0 Shifter

02-26-2001, 06:25 PM	#1
ed1371 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 469	Changing clutch for the first time... Well, I am going on leave tues to go to san diego and replace my clutch. Any tips on how to make things go smoother? Any first time mistakes that I can avoid? never done a clutch before so ANY help is appreciated! ed ------------------ My Mustang 91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 dry kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, fms adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA shorties, JBA subs, JBA strut tower brc, dynomax "super turbo" 2 1/2 exhaust, FMS billit distrib, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC Fenderwell cold air kit, off road h pipe.

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02-26-2001, 08:23 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Use a lift if possible; if not, use good jackstands. Buy quality parts; I recommend replacing the flywheel; a stock iron one is only about $100. and you'll avoid problems later (steel is about $225). Replace the throwout bearing as well as the pilot bearing. Worth the cost for peace of mind. Use a torque wrench (you can rent them) and follow the manual specs for torque and sequence on them. Basically, follow the 'book' and don't rush or work when you're tired or distracted, as a mistake might ruin expensive parts and have you tearing the whole thing down again a few days later. Good luck.

02-26-2001, 09:58 PM	#3
buddha Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 327	In my opinion, save some money and resurface the stock flywheel for $20. I don't see any need to buy another, unless you looking to add some major HP. Like Mr. 5.0 says, follow the book and you should have no problems. Also make sure you use a pilot tool for the clutch disc to line it all up. Have fun!

02-27-2001, 01:18 AM	#4
rtz Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 180	If you are trying to do this for the cheapest amount, just change the clutch disc itself since that is what will be worn out. Get the flywheel resurfaced only if you think it's warped or, if your current clutch chattered. Or if you think it looks like it needs to be resurfaced, and you have a place that can do it. Around here, http://www.oreilyauto.com/ can resurface flywheels, drums, and rotors. Also, be sure to change out the throwout bearing. It's pretty cheap, and you don't want it going out on you later on. You might change out the rear main seal on the back of the motor while you are at it too. I always do as I might as well. Saves me from having to do it later. As for "Any tips on how to make things go smoother", you might go ahead and take loose the shifter boot and that rubber panel under that as it consumes time to do it. Then when you get ready to pull the transmission, unbolt the shifter and remove it. After that it's just a matter of unbolting the cat back exhaust from the H-Pipe and then disconnecting the H-Pipe from the headers. Undo the Oxygen Senors first though. Also, the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear end are torqued to like 85 foot pounds if I remember right and atleast on mine, it needed a 12 point socket for those 4 bolts. Make sure you already have that socket before you begin. Then you have the starter to unbolt, be sure to disconnect the battery first. Then the 4 bolts on the bellhousing and the 2 on the crossmember, and the 2 for the transmission mount. And the clutch cable and the wire for the backup light. I think that's all there is too it. It's been awhile since I've done it, but I've done it several times before and it's pretty easy, it just takes some time. If you have a good set of tools and all your parts before hand, it should be pretty easy. Let us know how it went when you get back. Good luck.

02-27-2001, 01:42 AM	#5
ed1371 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 469	Thanks for all the help. As of right now (may end up doing more once I get in there) I am resurfacing the flywheel, replacing the rear main seal, pilot bearing, throwout, disk and pressure plate. I will be doing it at a military auto hobby shop and they have just about anything I need tool wise. I will let you all know how things went when I return. ed

02-27-2001, 02:18 PM	#6
NoSlow5.0 YOU HAVE NO MARBLES!!!!!! Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Jonesboro,Georgia,USA (Providence, Ri) Posts: 868	Get some extensions, they come in handy on the top bell housing and trans bolts. Taking off the shifter makes it a little easier to manuver the trans out if the car is not very high off the ground. Mark and store all bolts so that they are put back correctally. And try not to touch the surface of the new plate or disc/put them down on anything. Get an allignment dowl. And by all means....HAVE FUN!! That's what working on the stang is all about. Plus, it's always nice to have a friend to help and mess around with there. Light Em Up!!!

03-01-2001, 03:30 PM	#7
tomazzzo Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: shreveport, La. USA Posts: 27	try to have a torch of some kind handy. We had to superheat the pilot bearing, and the thermactor tube on the hpipe to get them out on my 93, had to chisel out the pilot on my buddys 85. be careful you dont chew up the outer edge of the socket the bearing goes into. It will be time consuming, but be patient. ------------------ Thomas Monahan Shreveport, La. 93Reef Blue GT BBK Ceramic Long Tubes Flowmaster 2ch system Pro 5.0 Shifter