How hot can aluminum heads get before they warp? - Page 4

Stang_ROTY · 08-10-2001, 09:39 AM

Chris, They didn't have the vented 17 lb. cap so I got the 16 lb. cap. Should I be o.k.? The shroud and fan and thermo. are in. I changed the oil and refilled the coolant system with water. This IS the moment of thruth! 10 mos. and over 17K later it's time to find out if the engine needs to be teared apart again. And it's still brand new! Thanks Chris for all the advice. I really hope this works. I'm sure you and everyone else can relate. Well, here we go. I'll be back on later with the good results.

PKRWUD · 08-10-2001, 09:49 AM

Yes, a 16 pound cap will be fine. I look forward to the results!

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

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Stang_ROTY · 08-10-2001, 11:54 AM

YES! SUCCESS! IT's WORKING! That fan and shroud made a huge difference. I can actually feel the difference myself standing above the motor. I think that did it Chris. You are da f#&%ing man! I filled her up with water and put the cap on tight. Once I started the car and ran her the temp gauge got to about 150, then 180 and I noticed the upper rad. hose was hot which told me the thermo. opened. Then it creeped up to about 190 and the lower hose was hot and the temp. lowered back to 180 on the dot. I started to rev her to about 3500 and it creeped up again but never got over 195. Beautiful. She even sounds better now that I changed the oil (it was really shi##y). Thanks to everyone! Chris, you are for real. I think I'll actually make to Ford Day at Lebanon Valley tomarrow. So what do I do now? Do I take the water out and fill it wth antifreeze, or leave the water in it? Thanks again Chris. You were right. Now hopefully when I drive it the temp won't go up.

PKRWUD · 08-10-2001, 12:08 PM

Great! I'm very happy that you got it under control!

What do you do next? Re-torque the intake/head/exhaust bolts. After that: Wash and wax it.

Contrary to popular belief, coolant is not your engines friend. After about 1000 miles, or two months, which ever comes first, change the oil and filter again, and flush the cooling system and refill with 40% coolant/anti-freeze - 60% water, for the winter. Next spring, flush it again and refill with straight water for the summer.

If you run into any trouble, or have other questions, feel free to email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net

Now just enjoy!!!

Take care
~Chris

P.S. If you end up with any old or used coolant, save it. It's one of the best rubber conditioners there is! Applied regularly to tires, it leaves that clean, new tire look, which I prefer Armor-all. Tires are supposed to look like tires, not glazed donuts.

PKRWUD · 08-10-2001, 02:35 PM

As an important footnote, I want to really stress to you that, while the fan and shroud made a large difference, so did the cap. You may not realize it, but the cap was probably the single most effective part in the combination of changes you made. They were all necessary, but the cap was the biggie.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Stang_ROTY · 08-12-2001, 02:33 AM

Thanks again Chris. I took her for a 50 mile ride today and i still have some prob's to iron out. My only concern is that the engine puffs a large amount of smoke on startup after the car has cooled off. My engine builder ays it's the moly rings that need to be seayed. i guess I'll find out soon enough. thanks again.

PS-You wouldn't happen to be the Chris that I was supposed to talk to at JMS, would you?

PKRWUD · 08-12-2001, 04:31 AM

No, I'm Chris from Peckerwoods Pit Stop in Ventura, California. I'm glad your journey was successful. The puff of smoke could be from the rings, but it should stop soon. After about 1000 miles or so, you should notice the engine running a little cooler. Rebuilt engines always run hotter until they are broken in. Once that happens, you may want to consider installing the fan clutch you have. If it runs too hat after making the swap, swap it back. Just make sure the fan is sitting half in and half out of the shroud.

What other problems are you having? Start a new thread and we'll see what we can do!

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

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08-10-2001, 09:39 AM	#61
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Chris, They didn't have the vented 17 lb. cap so I got the 16 lb. cap. Should I be o.k.? The shroud and fan and thermo. are in. I changed the oil and refilled the coolant system with water. This IS the moment of thruth! 10 mos. and over 17K later it's time to find out if the engine needs to be teared apart again. And it's still brand new! Thanks Chris for all the advice. I really hope this works. I'm sure you and everyone else can relate. Well, here we go. I'll be back on later with the good results.

08-10-2001, 09:49 AM	#62
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Yes, a 16 pound cap will be fine. I look forward to the results! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

08-10-2001, 11:54 AM	#63
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	YES! SUCCESS! IT's WORKING! That fan and shroud made a huge difference. I can actually feel the difference myself standing above the motor. I think that did it Chris. You are da f#&%ing man! I filled her up with water and put the cap on tight. Once I started the car and ran her the temp gauge got to about 150, then 180 and I noticed the upper rad. hose was hot which told me the thermo. opened. Then it creeped up to about 190 and the lower hose was hot and the temp. lowered back to 180 on the dot. I started to rev her to about 3500 and it creeped up again but never got over 195. Beautiful. She even sounds better now that I changed the oil (it was really shi##y). Thanks to everyone! Chris, you are for real. I think I'll actually make to Ford Day at Lebanon Valley tomarrow. So what do I do now? Do I take the water out and fill it wth antifreeze, or leave the water in it? Thanks again Chris. You were right. Now hopefully when I drive it the temp won't go up.

08-10-2001, 12:08 PM	#64
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Great! I'm very happy that you got it under control! What do you do next? Re-torque the intake/head/exhaust bolts. After that: Wash and wax it. Contrary to popular belief, coolant is not your engines friend. After about 1000 miles, or two months, which ever comes first, change the oil and filter again, and flush the cooling system and refill with 40% coolant/anti-freeze - 60% water, for the winter. Next spring, flush it again and refill with straight water for the summer. If you run into any trouble, or have other questions, feel free to email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net Now just enjoy!!! Take care ~Chris P.S. If you end up with any old or used coolant, save it. It's one of the best rubber conditioners there is! Applied regularly to tires, it leaves that clean, new tire look, which I prefer Armor-all. Tires are supposed to look like tires, not glazed donuts.

08-10-2001, 02:35 PM	#65
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	As an important footnote, I want to really stress to you that, while the fan and shroud made a large difference, so did the cap. You may not realize it, but the cap was probably the single most effective part in the combination of changes you made. They were all necessary, but the cap was the biggie. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

08-12-2001, 02:33 AM	#66
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	Thanks again Chris. I took her for a 50 mile ride today and i still have some prob's to iron out. My only concern is that the engine puffs a large amount of smoke on startup after the car has cooled off. My engine builder ays it's the moly rings that need to be seayed. i guess I'll find out soon enough. thanks again. PS-You wouldn't happen to be the Chris that I was supposed to talk to at JMS, would you?

08-12-2001, 04:31 AM	#67
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	No, I'm Chris from Peckerwoods Pit Stop in Ventura, California. I'm glad your journey was successful. The puff of smoke could be from the rings, but it should stop soon. After about 1000 miles or so, you should notice the engine running a little cooler. Rebuilt engines always run hotter until they are broken in. Once that happens, you may want to consider installing the fan clutch you have. If it runs too hat after making the swap, swap it back. Just make sure the fan is sitting half in and half out of the shroud. What other problems are you having? Start a new thread and we'll see what we can do! Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!