Summer Project: New Heads...suggestions?

[Sonics2042]

Ok...Which heads are the best bang for the buck? Also, ease of installation is somewhat of an issue. I heard the GT40p heads are cheap, but haven't heard any numbers.

Also, how much should I expect to spend if I want to replace all bolts, gaskets, etc...(my car has ~110k miles on it, so I figure it is best just to replace everything.)

What can I expect to run after this little project + drag radials...(also THINKing about swapping 4.10s for the 3.73s.)

Thanks,
DoranW

[chris91LX]

First thing you'll want to do is run a leak down test to make sure the short block is in good shape, no point putting $1000 heads on a block that needs a rebuild.
If everything is good after that it all depends on how much you want to spend. Iron heads like the gt40p's might be good for you, but you'll have to get headers that fit them because the configuration of the exhaust ports and spark plug holes are differen't. You can find GT 40 heads for fairly cheap too if you look around. I considered iron and aluminum heads and decided to go with aluminums.
I did alot of research searching all the boards and asking many stupid questions and ended up with the Edelbrock 6032's. Paid just under $1000 for them brand new on sale at Summit. I have to say that I am happy with them. I went with the Edelbrocks because they were supposed to be very high quality out of the box and free of defects, and direct replacement without any machining or special parts. I've heard the AFR's are putting out more power than any of the other box stock heads and appear to be very high quality. It's all going to depend on how much you want to spend. Expect to pay about twice as much as you think, by the time your done with gaskets, head bolts, head bolt inserts, timing chain, cam, lubricants, etc, etc. etc.
I ran a baseline dyno before i added the intake heads and cam and had 210 hp and 270ftlbs tq at the rear wheels with the stock long block and all the bolt ons (pulleys, 73mmm maf, 65mm tb, Crane ignition etc.) and after the Edelbrock heads, TFS stage 1 cam, ported Cobra intake, 76mm maf, 70mm tb, 24 lb injectors, kirban fpr, and a BM fan I dynoed at 282rwhp and 315ftlbs tq.

Bottom line is to search the boards, all of your questions have been asked a hundred times before, come back with specific questions, and make your own decisions. Everyone on here has opinions, there isn't one perfect combo and whatever you end up with you'll be happy with. Good luck

[89 ATI]

I would say save your money and get the AFR 165 heads. They make lots of power. My combo would have made around 320-330 on a dynojet. All you need is a set of AFR's and a better cam and you are there. If you have a T-5 get the 3.73's If you have an auto get the 4.10 gears.

[Sonics2042]

Originally posted by 89 ATI
All you need is a set of AFR's and a better cam and you are there.

Is the e-303 cam not good enough???

Thanks,
DoranW

[drudis]

CAREFUL!!!

I went down that slippery slope this year... Yeah, I'll just get some off-the-shelf heads for $1000, thats it.


Well, now that I got some TFS TW Stage-II ported heads, might as well get that cam.
Now with a cam, might need that intake to balance everything.
New injectors and recalibrate of MAF...


Voila, done! ( mucho $$$ later)

[Sonics2042]

Already have new MAF, cam, and intake. If I did get heads, I would get a chip shortly there after...

Are there any kits that have everything included (new bolts, gaskets, lubricants, etc...) I think something like that would be worth buying, just to avoid any other hassles.

Thanks,
DoranW

[chris91LX]

They have gasket kits, if you order from summit get the Trick Flow set, it's all the same gaskets as the fel pro one but about $30 cheaper. I've never seen any lubricants or bolts included in any of the kits you'll probably have to get those separate.

[Green9550]

My vote goes to the AFR 165's. They might be more expensive, but you get what you pay for. They are an excellent head right out of the box. Add a nice cam and your car will scream. Did you get a new timming chain when you put the E cam in? If you didn't, get one. chris91LX is right about paying about twice as much as you thought. Little things add up. Well, I hope this helps. Good luck.

-Billy

[Sonics2042]

Doh! Paying more money usually isn't good . And yes, I did get a new timing chain when I got the cam. My old one was on it's way out, and I was running 8* of timing for fear that it would break.

I have a new cam, and timing chain, and intake manifold...

Besides gaskets, bolts, and lubricants, I can't think of anything else I would need. (and that isn't anywhere near doubling the price...)

Am I missing something?

Thanks,
DoranW

[drudis]

I just added a parts list to my engine page. It lists all the parts I added, but not necessarily what I PAID for them...
Here is the link to my engine page, with the PDF parts list:
http://www.dariusrudis.com/mustang/new_engine/

[Sonics2042]

Some of the things in the list I am not sure if I would need for heads (since I don't know what they are ).

I think I am starting to get an idea of why it is so much...if I stayed with stock fuel stuff, how much would that hurt me? And won't larger injectors kind of kill gas mileage?

Thanks,
DoranW