Clutch Damper....

Rosco · 04-12-2002, 03:13 PM

Alright, I've been having some problems lately with my clutch. I've posted before about it. The mechanic at my Uncles shop said that to him, with the vibrations increasing as the Rpms rise, and the fact that I have to push it down to the floor, he's pretty sure it might be the clutch damper, /or spring. Has anyone else had any problems like this before? Oh yeah...i used to only hafto have my clutch about 1/2 the way in to put it in gear, whereas it goes in somewhat hard when the clutch pedal is fully pressed. He also told me that I'd be looking to pay around $600, which includes pulling the motor/tranny, reworking the flywheel, replacing the damper and spring, and possibly a new clutch. Any ideas?

Mr 5 0 · 04-12-2002, 06:05 PM

Not sure what 'damper' is being referred to here but, yeah, the pressure plate springs might very well be tired and the clutch needs to be replaced.

Could also be a stretched clutch cable but that would probably be too easy.

A new King Cobra clutch costs about $200., plus a new release bearing ($30.) as well as a new pilot bearing ($15.) Turning down the flywheel is under $50.

There is no need to pull the engine to replace the clutch on a Mustang. You have to pull the tranny of course and this is also a good time to replace the rear main seal on the engine (under $20.).

Labor for a clutch replacement shouldn't run much over three hours, tops, for an experienced mechanic with a lift and proper tools. Probably less time, in reality.

You could spend $600. but that sounds a bit high, even at inflated labor rates.

Rosco · 04-12-2002, 07:02 PM

Well...one thing that's baffling me is..If the pressure plate isn't putting full pressure on the clutch..wouldn't it therefor be slipping..at least enough where you could feel or smell it? Cuz I was possibly thinking it could be the same thing. But if it is that it seems that it would also put some kind of unusual wear on the clutch..I think, or am to assume. Nasty thing is...It was replaced by the previous owner only 2k miles before I bought the car...Unfortunatly it's almost considered brand new...well to what I would consider, without being driven hard since I've had it. And it's one of those 10.5" Centerforce Dual Friction clutches..I'm looking at jegs online..and they go for about $319. My question is...if they pull the tranny, and hafto replace the pressure plate /or plate springs have to be changed, and there is no abnormal wear on it...would it be reusable? Because I don't want someone spending $300 to buy a new clutch when I don't need it. One more thing, what would you guys advise? Going with a king kobra, or going with another Centerforce? I am also thinking I might as well have them install a new clutch cable, as It looks like it's the stock one from 1991.

Mr 5 0 · 04-13-2002, 09:32 AM

You won't know until you get the clutch assembly out what the problem may be. A lot of it may be tied to poor installation of the 'new' clutch.

You could have a bad pilot bearing - they are often overlooked as a replacement item. You could have an alignment problem or a warped flywheel or a loose bolt somewhere...any number of things, aside from the PP. You can buy a PP alone, as a separate piece, if necessary.

You'll have to study all the parts and look for abnormal wear to determine the cause of the problem.

I would get the the King Cobra clutch for your stock '91 and consider a new flywheel. Stock iron is about $100. Not that much and it helps insure against vibration problems down the road. Replacing the clutch cable is also a good idea.

I replaced my stock clutch at 85,000 with a King Cobra unit and a new iron flywheel along with new release and pilot bearings and never had a problem in 30,000 miles since.

Rosco · 04-13-2002, 02:47 PM

yeah, that doesn't sound to bad. I mean, might as well get everything replaced that seems like it would be. I'm actually gonna drive it down to AAMCO on monday to get it looked at. They said they'd take a look at it and see if they could diagnose it, for free even. Although...i don't think that includes removing anything to test or whatnot. Also, I'm thinkin to that it might still be just a stretched out cable.. What things would or should I look for to determine if it's just that? Same with the clutch pawl...(the self adjusting thingy right above the pedal)...I know where everything is now...and how to remove it..I'm just lost at what I should be looking for? like any kinds of wear..or loosness...could ya help me out

04-12-2002, 03:13 PM	#1
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Clutch Damper.... Alright, I've been having some problems lately with my clutch. I've posted before about it. The mechanic at my Uncles shop said that to him, with the vibrations increasing as the Rpms rise, and the fact that I have to push it down to the floor, he's pretty sure it might be the clutch damper, /or spring. Has anyone else had any problems like this before? Oh yeah...i used to only hafto have my clutch about 1/2 the way in to put it in gear, whereas it goes in somewhat hard when the clutch pedal is fully pressed. He also told me that I'd be looking to pay around $600, which includes pulling the motor/tranny, reworking the flywheel, replacing the damper and spring, and possibly a new clutch. Any ideas? __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-12-2002, 06:05 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Clutch problems Not sure what 'damper' is being referred to here but, yeah, the pressure plate springs might very well be tired and the clutch needs to be replaced. Could also be a stretched clutch cable but that would probably be too easy. A new King Cobra clutch costs about $200., plus a new release bearing ($30.) as well as a new pilot bearing ($15.) Turning down the flywheel is under $50. There is no need to pull the engine to replace the clutch on a Mustang. You have to pull the tranny of course and this is also a good time to replace the rear main seal on the engine (under $20.). Labor for a clutch replacement shouldn't run much over three hours, tops, for an experienced mechanic with a lift and proper tools. Probably less time, in reality. You could spend $600. but that sounds a bit high, even at inflated labor rates.

04-12-2002, 07:02 PM	#3
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Well...one thing that's baffling me is..If the pressure plate isn't putting full pressure on the clutch..wouldn't it therefor be slipping..at least enough where you could feel or smell it? Cuz I was possibly thinking it could be the same thing. But if it is that it seems that it would also put some kind of unusual wear on the clutch..I think, or am to assume. Nasty thing is...It was replaced by the previous owner only 2k miles before I bought the car...Unfortunatly it's almost considered brand new...well to what I would consider, without being driven hard since I've had it. And it's one of those 10.5" Centerforce Dual Friction clutches..I'm looking at jegs online..and they go for about $319. My question is...if they pull the tranny, and hafto replace the pressure plate /or plate springs have to be changed, and there is no abnormal wear on it...would it be reusable? Because I don't want someone spending $300 to buy a new clutch when I don't need it. One more thing, what would you guys advise? Going with a king kobra, or going with another Centerforce? I am also thinking I might as well have them install a new clutch cable, as It looks like it's the stock one from 1991. __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-13-2002, 09:32 AM	#4
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Clutch suggestions You won't know until you get the clutch assembly out what the problem may be. A lot of it may be tied to poor installation of the 'new' clutch. You could have a bad pilot bearing - they are often overlooked as a replacement item. You could have an alignment problem or a warped flywheel or a loose bolt somewhere...any number of things, aside from the PP. You can buy a PP alone, as a separate piece, if necessary. You'll have to study all the parts and look for abnormal wear to determine the cause of the problem. I would get the the King Cobra clutch for your stock '91 and consider a new flywheel. Stock iron is about $100. Not that much and it helps insure against vibration problems down the road. Replacing the clutch cable is also a good idea. I replaced my stock clutch at 85,000 with a King Cobra unit and a new iron flywheel along with new release and pilot bearings and never had a problem in 30,000 miles since.

04-13-2002, 02:47 PM	#5
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	yeah, that doesn't sound to bad. I mean, might as well get everything replaced that seems like it would be. I'm actually gonna drive it down to AAMCO on monday to get it looked at. They said they'd take a look at it and see if they could diagnose it, for free even. Although...i don't think that includes removing anything to test or whatnot. Also, I'm thinkin to that it might still be just a stretched out cable.. What things would or should I look for to determine if it's just that? Same with the clutch pawl...(the self adjusting thingy right above the pedal)...I know where everything is now...and how to remove it..I'm just lost at what I should be looking for? like any kinds of wear..or loosness...could ya help me out __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

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