E-303 idles mean as hell I thought it was a mild cam.

[Dog5ohfun]

I had an E cam in mine and I loved it with the car stock. I got a new cam that would provide higher RPM for my 306. An easy way to get a better idle for the E, is too get the Air idle bypass plate to adjust your idle. Also make sure that your TPS is set right with your throttle adjustment screw. .099 at idle and no higher than 4.50 volts at full throttle. Mine always idled well. It even sounded good in my current 306 but I needed more top end to take advantage of my stock heads that I got from Powerheads. Just thought I would add my opinion and thoughts.

[Skyman]

Hmm Ive listened to an F-cammed car w/ flows like mine and mine was louder.

Skyler

[soon2Bturbo]

quote:BTW: I do not reccommend this cam. It is a real PITA to get your car to idle without surging below 1000 rpms.

I had to drill a 3/16 inch hole in my throttle body flapper to get it to idle right. Anyone else have to do this?

I hope this cam performs well with my combo cause it sure was a BIOTCH to get everything right.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey! It's really great that so many people are replying to this problem. Only one problem, though. Not one person has mentioned the obvious. The basic. Do you all need "cam swapping 101" for EFI cars. The EEC-IV must adjust itself to the new cam. It must compensate for the different vacuum, and more air that is now entering the cylinder. I've gone through 4 diff cams and each one took about 1 week or 70-100 starts before the ECU learned and made the proper adjustments. I'm not insulting anyone. I just think many of you overlooked the obvious.

[Dark_5.0]

I dont agree with you at all. My car idles perfectly at 750 rpms now.

We "all" understand perfectly well that the ecu has to learn with new mods but the ecu is not going to compenstae for 500 rpm surges. I gave it plenty of time. From Friday to Monday to be exact and it was still surging like a big dawg.

I have since repaired the hole I drilled in the throttle body and installed an idle adjuster. Its all good now.

[Skyman]

Your car aint nothing like mine. 4 years, still idle problems. Tried it all. Set at 1200 rpm now, and still surges a bit.

[429mustang]

My idle's been a little weird the last few since I advanced my timing from around 10* up to 14*advanced, the motor's completely stock and I performed the right computer reset procedure. ????? I still have to check the TPS, if it was off would that contribute to an occasional surging/high idle?

[420nitro]

Originally posted by 429mustang
My idle's been a little weird the last few since I advanced my timing from around 10* up to 14*advanced, the motor's completely stock and I performed the right computer reset procedure. ????? I still have to check the TPS, if it was off would that contribute to an occasional surging/high idle?

Yes it can. Especially if it over 1 volt at idle.

As goes for soon to be turbo, I would have to agree. (maybe I was lucky) but didn't have any idle problems. I also knew some tricks that worked too.
I have had several different Motorsport cams, and liked the E-cam the best. I personnaly thought the B-cam was the biggest joke,..no offense to the people running that cam. (that was also before the F-cam and Z-cam came out.) After the E-cam I always bought custom ground cams from Bennet or Panhandle Performance, with awsome luck. (Again no idle or surging problems).
Dark 5.0
As goes for the E-cam being mild,.. I don't really think it is for what you got. It all depends what you are comparing it with too. I now have a cam well over 250@ .050 duration! I now think my cam is mild at the stage I am at.
But I know the rump you are talking about and it brings back great memories. I think the E-cam gives off the best sound for a street car with out the to racey sound!
I don't think Dark 5.0 will have any problems running what you want with the combo you have. So good luck.
my 2 cents

[Dark_5.0]

Originally posted by 420nitro
Yes it can. Especially if it over 1 volt at idle.

As goes for soon to be turbo, I would have to agree. (maybe I was lucky) but didn't have any idle problems. I also knew some tricks that worked too.
I have had several different Motorsport cams, and liked the E-cam the best. I personnaly thought the B-cam was the biggest joke,..no offense to the people running that cam. (that was also before the F-cam and Z-cam came out.) After the E-cam I always bought custom ground cams from Bennet or Panhandle Performance, with awsome luck. (Again no idle or surging problems).
Dark 5.0
As goes for the E-cam being mild,.. I don't really think it is for what you got. It all depends what you are comparing it with too. I now have a cam well over 250@ .050 duration! I now think my cam is mild at the stage I am at.
But I know the rump you are talking about and it brings back great memories. I think the E-cam gives off the best sound for a street car with out the to racey sound!
I don't think Dark 5.0 will have any problems running what you want with the combo you have. So good luck.
my 2 cents

Thank you,

It looks like march 13th will be my first track outting this year. Hoping for 12's......mid 12's.

[SaleenGTS]

I am with Sky...I had an E303 on my old motor(306). Before the blower it surged terrible and died when hitting corners with the A/C on...never cleared up. I tried everything, new vacuum, new ECU, different MAF and TB. They are not a good cam. MILD power at best. Dyno tests show the B making more power with the same mods.

Bigger ain't always better!

[420nitro]

Originally posted by SaleenGTS
I am with Sky...I had an E303 on my old motor(306). Before the blower it surged terrible and died when hitting corners with the A/C on...never cleared up. I tried everything, new vacuum, new ECU, different MAF and TB. They are not a good cam. MILD power at best. Dyno tests show the B making more power with the same mods.

Bigger ain't always better!

Ok, cool
Now I just want to understand something...did you use an E-cam with a supercharger??
Yes a b-cam will make more power with a power adder.
If with spray using more then 125 shot or a blower with 6 or more pounds or boost.
In a N/A combo an E-cam will make more power if tuned right with the right application, If not then it sounds like user error more then anything.
Right application is key!!!Would compose of a 5-speed, 3.73 gears or 4.10's, Good set of heads and intake., Comp. in the 9-9.5 range.
Cam installed correctley.
As goes for tune, the tps set to .950-.999, timing in the 16-19 btc. I have even seen 21! (I believe some factory balancers are off, but different subject). Right plugs for the heads and so on.

A lot of these thing I am sure you guys and girls already know.
And may have tried all of these things but still, just because you could not get it to work doesn't mean that it is a piece of shyte. All it means is that you could not tune the car! Is there easier combos to tune,...yes but still doesn't mean the other stuff is junk while a whole bunch of othere people are getting there cars to rock with the same parts as you.
later

[Skyman]

Sorry man but I worked on it for years. I had MANY people that are fricken experts with mustangs try to tune it. The last guy did the best, and it idles steady around 1200 now with an occasional surge. Liveabile definatly but perfect no way. I like the powerband of the b-cam a lot more.

Skyler

[420nitro]

Originally posted by Skyman
Sorry man but I worked on it for years. I had MANY people that are fricken experts with mustangs try to tune it. The last guy did the best, and it idles steady around 1200 now with an occasional surge. Liveabile definatly but perfect no way. I like the powerband of the b-cam a lot more.

Skyler

Hey man, just out of curiosity if your still willing to give it a shot...
At your next fill up, fill it with 93 octane or more (I don't know what you have for pump gas) and fill it with that. After about a quarter tank gas, adjust your timing to 16-19 btc. (And don't forget to disconnect the spout connector ) Reset computer and the IAC because I want you to now, lower your idle. Set it to about 800-900 on a timing light, not your factory tach. Recheck your TPS and give it a full week. See if it helps. Can be more things but its not in front of me. (Kind of hard over the computer).
I do not claim to be an expert, and I claim to know nothing people tend to leave me along too. Know you say that the timing is way to much, don't stress. If it starts to ping with a moderate load then back it off 2 degrees. (But it shouldn't because I was able to run that much in an iron head combo.)
***
I assume you are not running your emission equiptment including your cats!! ****
This may all seem redundent but worth a shot.
Good luck and let me know.
Let me if you want.

[420nitro]

Oh yea, don't get discourage if it dies out a couple of times at first. Give it 5 minutes first.

[Dark_5.0]

If I remember correctly I think skymans car put 330 to the wheels so the E cam is making good power even if it isnt ideal.

Strangely enough my car ran smoother with the speed density ecu

[Hozer 88GTConv]

I have the B with 1.7's (so I get the lift of an E, but the advertised duration of the B) TW heads (not to mention supercharged) and it idles as of three hours ago, via a Snap-on 1222 Engine Diagnostic Computer between 790 and 820 RPM.
I was checking my firing(electronic) efficiency via the O-scope readout and RPM variation per cylinder.
I do have the IAB spacer with a new IAB bought about a year ago. I also have a A3M with a JMS chip setup. I am nowhere near my hp potential on my combo even at 8 lbs due to my oil issue on number 5.
After correcting my oil issue, which I hope is a valve seal, I hope to net somewhere around 10 percent more on the dyno curve.
That's with a B-cam that idles rock steady.
Good Luck... (oh, I have 44 degrees of total advance via the Snap-on too...Trick Flow recommends 36 but oh well)

[Dark_5.0]

44 degrees total advance with a suprcharger

Joke right??????

[Hozer 88GTConv]

The Vortech has been off of the car for some time until I figure out my oil loss/number 5 cylinder issue.

Since the supercharger is supplied via the same oil sump, the last thing I want to do is oil-starve it. I have heard (not personally experienced it yet) that supercharger failures due to lack of lubrication are not pretty and that it is easier to have happen than you would think. I don't want to take a chance with a 3k unit.

So, I am naturally aspirated for now, but after I fix this thing, re-install the Vortech and re-tune it, I am hoping to see somewhere around 450 rwhp @ 8 psi. I am installing "umbrella" style valve seals Friday on the problem cylinder.

[pac663]

What's up fellas? I just installed an E in my 92 with stock heads and rockers. Stock from the lower intake to the cats except for the headers. Can I use the 1.7 Cobra rockers and still have clearence? When I first started the car after clearing the KAM, it died a few times. I gave it a little gas until it stayed started and it doesn't surge. It's only been 2 hours though

[Coupe50h]

Originally posted by Hozer 88GTConv
I have the B with 1.7's (so I get the lift of an E, but the advertised duration of the B) TW heads (not to mention supercharged) and it idles as of three hours ago, via a Snap-on 1222

Huh?
you should be getting the lift of an f.....using 1.7's

I get more lift than b or f using mt cobra 1.7's, just not the duration.......

[Hozer 88GTConv]

good catch...
b-cam 480-480 224-224 110 LC (1.6's)
with 1.7's becomes 510...damn that's close on TF heads and Flat tops...
I think the f is 512 though? Pretty close though....