Weld in roll bars

dinomite · 05-08-2001, 05:41 PM

I know that welding roll bars is the right way to go, but how hard is it? I daily drive my 90 convert, but would like to pu in a 6 point cage for stiffening and track legality. Will I have to disassemble the entire interior? Will I be able to put it back? Will I have to cut holes in the interior?

------------------
90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs.
Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60')

blueneonman1 · 05-08-2001, 11:28 PM

When I put the rollcage in mine, I bolted and welded it. You should take the entire interior out unless you want sparks burning it. The two points that came to the front on mine, I just cut a bit of the carpeting away and it looks fine. Same for the points that go straight down. For the points that go back, the rear seats were affected minorly but it still looks good. It all depends on how much time you want to put into it. I've seen pics of a mustang SN-95 that had put the bars through his dashboard but it looked really tight.

------------------
Blueneonman - '95 5.0L Mustang GT Convertible | K&N Drop-in | FMS 9mm Wires | Hollow Cats | Flowmaster 2 Chambers | Subframes | 6-pt Rollcage | 14deg Timing | King Cobra Clutch | FMS Adjustable Clutch Cable | Coolest Neon Lighting on a Mustang EVER!

Homepage: http://www16.brinkster.com/blueneonman/

Best time: 14.719 @94.87mph

Rick 91GT · 05-09-2001, 07:40 AM

Well you do need to strip out all the plastic/metal trim pieces and the carpet and seats and headliner (but you have a vert so just but the top down)

. All that stuff is very easy to take out and put back in but it does take some time to do it right and not rush through anything.

If you are just putting in a plain 6 or 8pt, you could do it in a weekend, my S&W was notched pretty decent but since we made the X brace and all it took more time, we also fit every joint so that they were really tight, I only plan on doing this once so do it right the first time. Get a NHRA book so you can see all the rules you must follow so your cage is legal. A lot of the bars you see are not legal because the side bars do not pass the driver between his shoulders and elbow when his hands are on the wheel (the NHRA book has a good diagram of this). I would say if you have access to a good welder and know how to use it, go for it. I also opted for the swing oput sides, I don't mind climbing over the bar but the swing out's are worth every penny at times each side cost $35.00 from S&W.

blueneonman- was talking about the bars going through the dash this is a 10pt cage which is not needed till 9.99, the 6 pt or 8 pt will be just fine for your application.

Here's a pic of my bar showing the X brace:

Here's a pic of my side bar:

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

[This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 05-09-2001).]

dinomite · 05-09-2001, 02:36 PM

The only place that I have available to weld stuff is at an auto class that I take at school (night class w/ my dad). We get a 3 hour block 1 day each week, would it be possible to do it like that? i.e. would I be able to start and then drive it home, let it sit and finish next week?

I plan on puttin in the 6 point Maximum Motorsports piece: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/mmdrrb.html

Rick 91GT · 05-09-2001, 03:01 PM

I would think that would be a pain, with all the interior pulled out but I guess it could be done. The MM piece is suppossed to be pretty nice also.

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

DaveR_GT · 05-09-2001, 03:11 PM

You can still drive it if you have to. You just need to lay the carpet back down and bolt the seat back in.

I just did it to my '92 convertable. Let me know if you need any tips.

You can see mine here: http://home.adelphia.net/~daver1/mustang.html

------------------
'92 GT conv.
TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73...

dinomite · 05-09-2001, 08:47 PM

Ya, i'll just disassemble at home, and then go and leave the interior apart till i'm done. I only have to drive 2 miles from my house to the garage, its not far.

TheSloAod · 05-09-2001, 09:45 PM

cages are a pain in the a$$ to climb over and add alot of weight. i would hold off on it as long as you could, why dont you buy a k brace or strut tower brace or something like that if you want to stiffen the car, if you drive it every day the cage will annoy you

------------------
My slo aod- 3.73s, pullies, flowmasters, h-pipe, bbk cold air, and 13.42 in the 1/4 @ 103 mph

dinomite · 05-10-2001, 06:06 PM

Need cage to road race softop, and anyway, it stiffens a lot more than say a strut tower brace, which I am also gonna get as well as subframes. Straight is fun, but turns are better.

05-08-2001, 05:41 PM	#1
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Weld in roll bars I know that welding roll bars is the right way to go, but how hard is it? I daily drive my 90 convert, but would like to pu in a 6 point cage for stiffening and track legality. Will I have to disassemble the entire interior? Will I be able to put it back? Will I have to cut holes in the interior? ------------------ 90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs. Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60')

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05-08-2001, 11:28 PM	#2
blueneonman1 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Palm Harbor, FL Posts: 208	When I put the rollcage in mine, I bolted and welded it. You should take the entire interior out unless you want sparks burning it. The two points that came to the front on mine, I just cut a bit of the carpeting away and it looks fine. Same for the points that go straight down. For the points that go back, the rear seats were affected minorly but it still looks good. It all depends on how much time you want to put into it. I've seen pics of a mustang SN-95 that had put the bars through his dashboard but it looked really tight. ------------------ Blueneonman - '95 5.0L Mustang GT Convertible \| K&N Drop-in \| FMS 9mm Wires \| Hollow Cats \| Flowmaster 2 Chambers \| Subframes \| 6-pt Rollcage \| 14deg Timing \| King Cobra Clutch \| FMS Adjustable Clutch Cable \| Coolest Neon Lighting on a Mustang EVER! Homepage: http://www16.brinkster.com/blueneonman/ Best time: 14.719 @94.87mph

05-09-2001, 07:40 AM	#3
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Well you do need to strip out all the plastic/metal trim pieces and the carpet and seats and headliner (but you have a vert so just but the top down) . All that stuff is very easy to take out and put back in but it does take some time to do it right and not rush through anything. If you are just putting in a plain 6 or 8pt, you could do it in a weekend, my S&W was notched pretty decent but since we made the X brace and all it took more time, we also fit every joint so that they were really tight, I only plan on doing this once so do it right the first time. Get a NHRA book so you can see all the rules you must follow so your cage is legal. A lot of the bars you see are not legal because the side bars do not pass the driver between his shoulders and elbow when his hands are on the wheel (the NHRA book has a good diagram of this). I would say if you have access to a good welder and know how to use it, go for it. I also opted for the swing oput sides, I don't mind climbing over the bar but the swing out's are worth every penny at times each side cost $35.00 from S&W. blueneonman- was talking about the bars going through the dash this is a 10pt cage which is not needed till 9.99, the 6 pt or 8 pt will be just fine for your application. Here's a pic of my bar showing the X brace: Here's a pic of my side bar: ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! [This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 05-09-2001).]

05-09-2001, 02:36 PM	#4
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	The only place that I have available to weld stuff is at an auto class that I take at school (night class w/ my dad). We get a 3 hour block 1 day each week, would it be possible to do it like that? i.e. would I be able to start and then drive it home, let it sit and finish next week? I plan on puttin in the 6 point Maximum Motorsports piece: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/mmdrrb.html

05-09-2001, 03:01 PM	#5
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	I would think that would be a pain, with all the interior pulled out but I guess it could be done. The MM piece is suppossed to be pretty nice also. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!

05-09-2001, 03:11 PM	#6
DaveR_GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: W. Springfield, PA Posts: 65	You can still drive it if you have to. You just need to lay the carpet back down and bolt the seat back in. I just did it to my '92 convertable. Let me know if you need any tips. You can see mine here: http://home.adelphia.net/~daver1/mustang.html ------------------ '92 GT conv. TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73...

05-09-2001, 08:47 PM	#7
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Ya, i'll just disassemble at home, and then go and leave the interior apart till i'm done. I only have to drive 2 miles from my house to the garage, its not far.

05-09-2001, 09:45 PM	#8
TheSloAod Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: baytown, tx usa Posts: 121	cages are a pain in the a$$ to climb over and add alot of weight. i would hold off on it as long as you could, why dont you buy a k brace or strut tower brace or something like that if you want to stiffen the car, if you drive it every day the cage will annoy you ------------------ My slo aod- 3.73s, pullies, flowmasters, h-pipe, bbk cold air, and 13.42 in the 1/4 @ 103 mph

05-10-2001, 06:06 PM	#9
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Need cage to road race softop, and anyway, it stiffens a lot more than say a strut tower brace, which I am also gonna get as well as subframes. Straight is fun, but turns are better.