Run 91 octane anyway
Our cars run 10 times better with high octane then low test gas. The C&L maf uses your factory meter electronics but the real key in the C&L is the venturi shape of it . This speeds up intake air and also gets rid of the center post in the factory maf. Like I said before I could tell a difference in my car after I put on the C&L. DON'T waste money on a cold air intake, they look nice but don't do **** for performance. Plus if you go with a C&L you wouldn't be able to use the fender well end of the cai. I've got a BBK cai sitting in a box at the house. I could tell a difference with the new maf thats why it's still on the car. I did use the intake tube for a while though with the C&L, it looked good with the alum. maf, but my strut tower brace precluded me from using it so now all the BBK cai kit is in the box. TIMING ADJUSTER!!!!! I can set mine at 13* now, definite sotp feel. This will require you to run 91 or better octane, we have 93 oct. here in Illinois 
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2002 min gray GT:
steeda underdrives, timing adjuster, triax, C&L maf, MM strut tower brace and k-member brace, Steeda subs weld-in, steeda tubular front sway bar, bullitt springs ,struts(tokico's)and shocks, bullitt gas door, alum.pedals, MM panhard Bar, cobra 13" front brake upgrade. ON THE WAY TO BECOMING A TRACK *****
66' 2 dr malibu;
355 cube 4-bolt main, steel crank, chevy pink rods, KB 10.7 to1 pistons, ported double humps 202&160, torkerII intake, rejetted holley 650 D.P., crane ignition box, comp.cam roller rockers& 280 degree cam, balanced to 8500 rpm, hooker super comps, 3000 rpm stall and built turbo 350 tranny. dynoed at 543hp and 582 tq
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