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Old 06-26-2001, 04:36 AM   #1
95mustanggt
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Question Help! Timing Problem?

OK, I'm sitting here in the Mandalay Bay resort in Las Vegas , which is cool but I've got a small problem .

I'm getting a lot of detonation with my A/C on. Atleast it sure sounds like detonation (metal rattling coming from the engine at higher RPM's >3000).

It gets worse as the temp gets higher and when the A/C is on.

I went for a cruise a few hours ago and in 80* weather with the A/C off and no problems even to 5000 RPM. I put the A/C on for a second and the check engine light came on.

I've still got a lot of miles to go between Vegas and Dallas and don't want a problem. I have a chip in the car and I'm wondering if the higher temp out side is causing some problems. I just don't understand what the A/C has to do with anything

Ideas???

Oh yeah, gauges are all normal and power seams to real die off when it happens.

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Old 06-26-2001, 12:39 PM   #2
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It might not be detonation at all. Detonation sounds like someone is smacking your heads with a hammer. Have you checked you timing? See what its set at first. If its not too high (factory is 10) check your fuel pressure. If your pump is giving out the fuel pressure will drop drasticaly when you get into higher RPM's causing you to detonate. Good news is that a new pump is pretty cheap. Good luck

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Old 06-26-2001, 01:30 PM   #3
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Question

I can't check timing as I've only got a small tool kit with me and I'm in a resort parking lot.

I just don't understand why the A/C seems to have something to do with it. I mean I know that it draws more power, but I would think the same HP is available, just less to the ground due to the loss of the A/C pump.

I've got to get some grubby clothes on and take a lot this afternoon. If it is my fuel pump (God I hope I make it to Dallas), what does fuel starvation sound like? Can I but a larger fuel pump in 155 lph without an adjustable fuel regulator?

Thanks.

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Old 06-26-2001, 02:12 PM   #4
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If your check engine light came on, get yourself a code reader. The computer probably has the answer.

You don't really need a code reader, either. It's a simple matter of jumpering one connector on your test harness to another. The codes will flash on your check engine light. I just don't have the diagram with me to tell you how, though. I know the single wire connector gets jumpered to one of the terminals on the big, multiwire test connector.

This seems to be a major problem with 95s. I know of two other people dealing with the very same issue.

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Old 06-26-2001, 02:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by jimberg:
If your check engine light came on, get yourself a code reader. The computer probably has the answer.

You don't really need a code reader, either. It's a simple matter of jumpering one connector on your test harness to another. The codes will flash on your check engine light. I just don't have the diagram with me to tell you how, though. I know the single wire connector gets jumpered to one of the terminals on the big, multiwire test connector.

This seems to be a major problem with 95s. I know of two other people dealing with the very same issue.

Do the 2 other guys you know have an aftermarket chip in there car? Do they have fuel problems?

It wouldn't be that big of a deal except I have little tools, no shop space and a long drive a head of me in the next couple days.

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Old 06-26-2001, 02:45 PM   #6
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I totaly forgot about the chip. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and yank the chip. They do go bad. A guy I work with here towed his truck back here because it died on him and wouldnt idle. We yanked his POS superchip and the car ran fine.

If it is a fuel pump problem the AC will add strain on the motor which will need more fuel that you cant supply. It could be fuel all along but yank the chip anyway to test.
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Old 06-26-2001, 02:53 PM   #7
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No chips that I know of.

As far as tools go, most sensors are replaceable with basically a wrench. Do you at least have access to an autoparts store if you need to replace basic parts? If not, just leave the air off and bake.

Does your A/C work well? It's possible that your pump is starting to seize up and is really straining the engine. My wife's Probe did the same sort of thing.

I'm headed home right now. Look for some wire or something that you could use to jumper connectors with. We'll get that code. Since the check engine light went on as soon as your A/C went on, it's a good bet that the computer has the answer. Do you have a cell phone? Maybe I could call you while you're at your car. If you do, send me a private message with it. I should be home in about 40 minutes. If not, do you have access to an IRC client?

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Old 06-27-2001, 04:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by jimberg:
No chips that I know of.

As far as tools go, most sensors are replaceable with basically a wrench. Do you at least have access to an autoparts store if you need to replace basic parts? If not, just leave the air off and bake.

Does your A/C work well? It's possible that your pump is starting to seize up and is really straining the engine. My wife's Probe did the same sort of thing.

I'm headed home right now. Look for some wire or something that you could use to jumper connectors with. We'll get that code. Since the check engine light went on as soon as your A/C went on, it's a good bet that the computer has the answer. Do you have a cell phone? Maybe I could call you while you're at your car. If you do, send me a private message with it. I should be home in about 40 minutes. If not, do you have access to an IRC client?

No cell phone, I don't have very good access to the net either. I check once a day or so in my hotel.

I yanked the Chip and the car is still having some problems. Not quite as bad, but still there. I just hope that I make it to Dallas. 2 Canadians stuck on the side of a hot desert road in the US doesn't turn me on

It is not timing, the sound is like a high frequency metal rattle. It happens at higher RPM, but only if you step on it. If you step on it under 3000 RPM there is no problem. And for some messed up reason the car seems fine until it warms up

I'll check here again later, any suggestions would help.

Also if it is a fuel pump, anyone got any idea's for a replacement? Thanks for all the help so far.


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Old 06-28-2001, 01:12 AM   #9
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Do you have a half inch distributor wrench? Back off the timing a few degrees. You don't have to have a light because you don't have to be exact. Retarding the timing won't harm your engine, but just do it enough to lower the idle a couple hundred rpm's (with the spout pulled), tighten it up and test drive it. Obviously the extra load is too much under the current driving conditions. Altitude may also play a role. If you are coming from a higher altitude, your engine is going to need a higher octane to run at the same specs you had it at in a higher altitude. In fact, that brings up an important point and a couple more questions: Is there much of an altitude difference from where you were to where you are now? What octane gas are you using? Have you tried a higher octane? I'd go with those before you change your timing, but in the long run a timing change will get you to Texas.

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Old 06-29-2001, 06:41 PM   #10
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Made it to Dallas.

What ever is going on is temperature related. The temp dropped in Oklahoma to about 65* and the car was fine! Today in Dallas it's 92 and the car sounds like it's going to die

Once I get settled I'll see what I can find. Anyone in Dallas want to help?

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Old 06-29-2001, 09:11 PM   #11
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Hotter air is leaner...
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Old 06-29-2001, 11:21 PM   #12
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The chip is gone, timing should be back to 10 degree's and I'm running a good octane fuel.
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