Can't Get My H-Pipe Off??? Any Suggestions???

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 01-20-2002, 06:16 AM

The Nuts On The Bottom Of The Header Bolts Are Seized On, And We Have No Clue Of How To Remove These Bolts So I Can Change My H-Pipe.

Were Afraid To Use A Torch, Because There Are Fuel Lines (We Think Thats What They Are) Running Right By The Nuts.

What Could We (Or What Did You) Do???

Thanks

lx mike · 01-20-2002, 06:41 AM

You try soaking it in wd-40 or any other stuff?? or find a friend with air tools.

right john?

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 01-20-2002, 06:47 AM

John??? What In The Sam Fool....

I Tryd An Impact Gun Once With No Luck, And Have Previously Tryd WD-40

BTW, The Name Is Kris.

Maroon 5.0 LX · 01-20-2002, 07:25 AM

If you don't want to use a torch, try running the engine til it's hot as it will get, this may loosen it up some. (after soaking with WD-40/Liquid Wrench) Work the wrench back and forth to break the nut loose. Don't burn yourself though.

Are these bolts or studs? If bolts, try using an impact wrench and just wring them off. If studs, I wouldn't use an impact.

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 01-20-2002, 07:37 AM

can i undo the headers, and just pull the whole header/hpipe out and then put my bbk equal headers on, as well as my hpipe?

thanks

drudis · 01-20-2002, 09:19 AM

Try (as suggested) getting them hot, and spraying with Liquid Wrench. Then use impact gun both ON/OFF (yeah, each direction).

If that dont work, crank up the gun and BUST off the studs.

If that dont work, get the cutoff wheel, and grind them off.

If that dont work, push the car off a cliff!

82 GT · 01-20-2002, 09:50 AM

I agree with Drudis, it sounds like you may have to cut them off with a die grinder and then get new bolts.
When you put the new bolts in I would coat them with anti-seize in case you have to remove them in the future.

stanger8172 · 01-20-2002, 10:02 AM

Have you tried "PB Blaster" to get the nuts loose?, it worked for me.

No, you can't take the headers and h-pipe off at the same time. Undo the connection between the headers and h-pope first and take the h-pipe out then take the headers out last. You may need to jack the motor up when putting your new headers in. Good luck

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 01-20-2002, 10:08 AM

whats pb blaster?

stanger8172 · 01-20-2002, 10:12 AM

PB Blaster is an anti-seize spray. It works like WD-40 except, in my opinion, better.

lx mike · 01-21-2002, 08:10 AM

my buddies name is john, that who i was refereing to. he has air tools and i always mention to him it's nice to have a friend with air tools. sorry for the confusion

Chevyguy · 01-21-2002, 10:11 AM

There is enough room up there to use a torch, we had to go nuts on my headers to get the wiped out bolts off the flange, and had to heat up the flange to get it straight enough. But we had it on a lift and sort of knew what we were doing. Bottom line, is the header studs will be toast, they need to be removed and drilled out or heated up and unscrewed from the flange. I am using regular 5/16" bolts w washersto hold the H pipe to the flange. Plus I needed to use a pair of " handcuff" split flanges on the H pipe to replace the rusted out flanges.

Needless to say this is why I am looking into new headers and H pipe.

Mustang_289 · 01-22-2002, 07:58 AM

if you're going to put new headers and h-pipe on, why don't you just cut thru the old h-pipe so you might be able to work it out of the car. If you there's not enough room to remove the header and cut h-pipe. Since you're going to replace the headers anyway - you could take out the header bolts and when the header is lose you should be able to drop the h-pipe lower away from fuel lines to torch da bolts..

01-20-2002, 06:16 AM	#1
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	Can't Get My H-Pipe Off??? Any Suggestions??? The Nuts On The Bottom Of The Header Bolts Are Seized On, And We Have No Clue Of How To Remove These Bolts So I Can Change My H-Pipe. Were Afraid To Use A Torch, Because There Are Fuel Lines (We Think Thats What They Are) Running Right By The Nuts. What Could We (Or What Did You) Do??? Thanks __________________ 1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~

01-20-2002, 06:41 AM	#2
lx mike Undescribable Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Ft Myers Fla Posts: 1,539	You try soaking it in wd-40 or any other stuff?? or find a friend with air tools. right john? __________________ Rice Haters Club Member #101

01-20-2002, 06:47 AM	#3
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	John??? What In The Sam Fool.... I Tryd An Impact Gun Once With No Luck, And Have Previously Tryd WD-40 BTW, The Name Is Kris. __________________ 1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~

01-20-2002, 07:25 AM	#4
Maroon 5.0 LX Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Southern Maryland Posts: 471	If you don't want to use a torch, try running the engine til it's hot as it will get, this may loosen it up some. (after soaking with WD-40/Liquid Wrench) Work the wrench back and forth to break the nut loose. Don't burn yourself though. Are these bolts or studs? If bolts, try using an impact wrench and just wring them off. If studs, I wouldn't use an impact. __________________ '89 LX 5.0 - 5 speed. Original Owner '94 E-150 4.9 Hi-Top Conversion Van '06 Mustang V-6, 5 speed

01-20-2002, 07:37 AM	#5
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	can i undo the headers, and just pull the whole header/hpipe out and then put my bbk equal headers on, as well as my hpipe? thanks __________________ 1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~

01-20-2002, 09:19 AM	#6
drudis Moderator Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Livonia, MI, USA Posts: 1,194	Try (as suggested) getting them hot, and spraying with Liquid Wrench. Then use impact gun both ON/OFF (yeah, each direction). If that dont work, crank up the gun and BUST off the studs. If that dont work, get the cutoff wheel, and grind them off. If that dont work, push the car off a cliff! __________________ Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com

01-20-2002, 09:50 AM	#7
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	I agree with Drudis, it sounds like you may have to cut them off with a die grinder and then get new bolts. When you put the new bolts in I would coat them with anti-seize in case you have to remove them in the future. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

01-20-2002, 10:02 AM	#8
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	Have you tried "PB Blaster" to get the nuts loose?, it worked for me. No, you can't take the headers and h-pipe off at the same time. Undo the connection between the headers and h-pope first and take the h-pipe out then take the headers out last. You may need to jack the motor up when putting your new headers in. Good luck __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

01-20-2002, 10:08 AM	#9
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	whats pb blaster? __________________ 1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~

01-20-2002, 10:12 AM	#10
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	PB Blaster is an anti-seize spray. It works like WD-40 except, in my opinion, better. __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

01-21-2002, 08:10 AM	#11
lx mike Undescribable Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Ft Myers Fla Posts: 1,539	my buddies name is john, that who i was refereing to. he has air tools and i always mention to him it's nice to have a friend with air tools. sorry for the confusion __________________ Rice Haters Club Member #101

01-21-2002, 10:11 AM	#12
Chevyguy Backyard Mechanic/Chemist Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Acton MA USA Posts: 435	There is enough room up there to use a torch, we had to go nuts on my headers to get the wiped out bolts off the flange, and had to heat up the flange to get it straight enough. But we had it on a lift and sort of knew what we were doing. Bottom line, is the header studs will be toast, they need to be removed and drilled out or heated up and unscrewed from the flange. I am using regular 5/16" bolts w washersto hold the H pipe to the flange. Plus I needed to use a pair of " handcuff" split flanges on the H pipe to replace the rusted out flanges. Needless to say this is why I am looking into new headers and H pipe. __________________ 2001 Crown Vic Maurader Airbox/MAF, DR chip Edel IAS shocks Single exhaust :wtf: 93 P-71 Vic interceptor Backup car now 90 5.0 LX Notch SOLD 74 Chevy Laguna type S-3 454 under construction Currently apart undergoing bodywork.

01-22-2002, 07:58 AM	#13
Mustang_289 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Posts: 512	if you're going to put new headers and h-pipe on, why don't you just cut thru the old h-pipe so you might be able to work it out of the car. If you there's not enough room to remove the header and cut h-pipe. Since you're going to replace the headers anyway - you could take out the header bolts and when the header is lose you should be able to drop the h-pipe lower away from fuel lines to torch da bolts..

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