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Old 02-18-2002, 10:41 PM   #1
93GTDIN
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Default blower isnt treatin me right!

So on saturday I finally thought I had this problem licked, guess I was wrong.

First off, here's my setup

ATI P600B w 2 core horizontal intercooler
custom tensioner
77 mm mas air sensor
30 # injectors to match
inline fuel pump (ati) totals to about a 255
MSD 6AL
Kenne Bell FMU
Plugs gapped to 33
14 # pulley, seeing about 10# at the manifold

here's the problem:
when I punch it from a stop (she's an AOD) the tires chirp but dont really spin at all, then *Most of the time* it revs up very slowly to 3000 rpm, at which point it hesitates for about 3 seconds, then slowly hits 3600, at which point its skyrockets to 6000 and bounces off the rev limiter, which is where I see about 10 lbs of boost. It runs like a wild woman when its hitting that boost but it takes forever to get there. Then again sometimes, I put the pedal to the floor and it wastes no time tearing the tires to shreds and boosting (IE it works perfect sometimes) and then other times it doesnt work AT ALL in the way of just staying at 3000 rpms all day regardless of what I do. Another thing I should probably mention is that when its not boosting, I have thick black smoke out the tail pipes like i'm running way way way too rich. Another part of this story that is just odd is i explained the problem to ATI and they said i needed a vacuum restrictor between my FMU and the vacuum tree. So I got one, and voila the problem seemed instantly solved. That of course, up until this afternoon when it started doing the same old thing I did before. Other notable mentions include that the transmission takes forever to shift under normal street driving, and it stays in 2nd and 3rd for an abnormally long time.

Sorry so long

please help if you have any ideas


dino
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Old 02-19-2002, 12:20 AM   #2
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to me, it sounds like it could be more of a transmission problem than with anything else.

If you are cruising in 3rd gear at fairly low RPM and punch it, does it downshift to 2nd and go or does it just stay in 3rd and slowly get up to speed?

the way you describe it is like it downshifts sometimes, gets the RPMs up and pulls hard, but other times it doesnt downshift and just slowly goes. Is this correct?

If so, its an AOD problem. Looks like its time for a rebuild with a lentech valve body and PI converter. After that, you wont have ANY problem getting those tires to shred.

hope this helps, good luck
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Old 02-19-2002, 10:46 AM   #3
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I think that fairly accurately describes what is going in the picture. Can I do a tranny rebuild myself? How much would a rebuild + valve body + converter cost?
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Old 02-19-2002, 11:41 AM   #4
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Unless you have a pro by your side to help you through it the first time, I'd leave the rebuild up to a shop.

When mine was an AOD, I pulled it out and had it rebuilt for $360.
A good converter will run between $350-700. and I think the valve body is about $350 as well.

If you are gonna be putting that much stress on it, then I would HIGHLY suggest getting a whole Lentech tranny. There's plenty of people here that use them, Jeff Chambers runs low 11's with one and can help you with any questions. They start at around $1200 I think, but are well worth it.

Or you could do like me and do a T-5 swap and have more fun with the car, although a T-5 will hold up to more power than an AOD, it still wont like being beat on by a supercharged motor for real long, then its time for a Tremec.

i probably just confused you, so you can disreguard everything I said if you want
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Old 02-19-2002, 11:56 AM   #5
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how difficult is a new tranny to install? I'm no mechanic but i'm not afraid to tackle anything that can feesibly done in a garage at my house.
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Old 02-19-2002, 12:08 PM   #6
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well the AOD isn't gonna be fun to do in your garage, but it can be done. its pretty heavy and bulky so you better have a friend with you and a tranny jack if you can get one.

Here's the basic steps to give you an idea:
remove the H-pipe,
remove driveshaft,
remove 4 torque converter to flexplate bolts,
loosen 6 bellhousing to motor bolts,
support tranny and remove crossmember,
remove bellhousing bolts and pull the tranny back and down.

Of course remove all cables, linkages and wires beforehand.
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Old 02-19-2002, 02:05 PM   #7
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Sounds like a fuel delivery problem, do you have a upgraded in-tank fuel pump to provide the volume for the in-line pump, also is pressure where it needs to be?
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Old 02-19-2002, 03:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Sounds like a fuel delivery problem, do you have a upgraded in-tank fuel pump to provide the
volume for the in-line pump, also is pressure where it needs to be?
Not a bad idea. However, his problem is erratic. Further, getting to 3000 rpms then to 3600 should be no problem as the motor is seeing little to no boost, yet. Therefore, the stock pump would be adequate up to this point.

Did your car just start this behavior? If so, I would tend to agree with the tranny issue. It may not hurt to have someone look at the car to try a get a more hands-on diagnosis.

Good luck and keep us posted on the outcome.

E
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Old 02-19-2002, 09:18 PM   #9
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no, i have the stock fuel pump in tank.. I would tend to think fuel delivery might be the problem, but in an opposite way. My gauges, as well as the smoke out my tail pipes tends to make me think its running really really rich. I am kinda leaning on transmission problems cause it juts doesnt shift the same as it used to.
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Old 02-19-2002, 09:40 PM   #10
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Although this may not be your problem, but the stock intank pump is NOT enough to supply the in-line pump, why did you install an in-line without an in-tank pump?
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Old 02-20-2002, 01:14 AM   #11
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because ati said it was unecessary
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Old 02-20-2002, 04:39 AM   #12
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Whats timing set at?

You need to know what your fuel pressure is.Get yourself a fuel pressure gauge so you can watch it under boost.Dont be assuming that your fuel pressure at idle is holding when the motor is at peak torque and max fuel flow.

You say your what your plugs are gapped at but..you also need to run a cooler running set of plugs as well.what plugs are you running?

You need to upgrade your fuel pump.your putting too much strain on your stock fuel pump.I Dont care what ATI says,you need to get that stock fuel pump outta there!

As far as just bolting this blower on and expecting a street stomper thats expecting too much.

Remember you need to build the whole car not JUST the motor to expect the best performance. Take your time and do this right,you've spent too much money to just end up breakin parts for a few minutes of fun..
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Old 02-20-2002, 12:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
because ati said it was unecessary
No offense, but ATI will tell you that you can run 50psi on a modified motor with the stock 19#ers, and stock pump. Ok, maybe I'm being a bit sarcastic, but you get the point.

You ought to think about installing a 255lph in-tank pump. Pretty cheap and easy install that will be well worth it - especially when the motor is seeing lots-o-boost.

E
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Old 02-20-2002, 04:02 PM   #14
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Its also possible you are getting spark blowout at certain rpms. An aftermarket ignition would fix that. And why aren't you running a boost retard?


If your tranny is having a hard time shifting, check the throttle cables going to and from the transmission. Sometimes the clip that holds them in breaks and can cause serious shifting problems. If not fixed you can blow your motor and tranny.
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