Power woes

RoadWarrior · 03-20-2002, 05:31 PM

For the longest time I've been running low on power in my car. According to my voltage gauge my car gets sufficent power until I begin turning on accessories. With all my accessories going the volts start dipping to the 12-12.5V side of the gauge. I figured it might be because of the extra drains I've put on.

I added a Holley Blue pump, an electric fan, a decent stereo, MSD ignition, and I - think - thats about it. But when all is said and done on a cold day it starts to run low on volts. I know '82's didnt have big alternators, but I did get a brand new replacement alt but I'm wondering if the 65amps is good enough.

Should I opt for a 100 amp one...even higher?

Thanks for any suggestions you can give.

Stang_Crazy · 03-20-2002, 05:39 PM

I had major charging problems after my pulleys so I scrapped the P.O.S. stock alternator for a 130 amp from PA Performance. Now, I don't have any charging problems at all. I would suggest that you get the alternator with the most amps that you can. Better to be safe than sorry and your battery will thank you for it

Mr 5 0 · 03-20-2002, 05:59 PM

You probably need to invest in a 130 amp alternator.

The electric fan and - likely - the stereo are too much for the stock alternator to keep up with.

RoadWarrior · 03-20-2002, 06:45 PM

Thanks. Ya it seems to only really drain when i either turn on my electric fan or kick my heater on.

I know that The local parts store has a 100amp alt that will fit my car but should i also re-run the main power wire from the alt because of the higher amperage? I know that PA performance has a complete kit which has new wires and everything but i am on a bit of a tight budget after finishing the engine build up. Otherwise i might just have to live without heat for the next while and spend the extra $$ on the PA piece.

Thanks Again for the help. This site is the best

Stang_Crazy · 03-20-2002, 07:12 PM

Since I have the PA Performance alternator, I'm going to, of course, favor them. When I got my alternator, I also got the wire kit that they sell. The wires are very easy to hook up. I have NO electrical experience and found the job to be an easy one. The instructions are clear and pictures are provided incase you need them. I think the wire kit ran me $40 in addition to the alternator. I am very happy and have no complaints.

scott9050 · 03-23-2002, 07:41 AM

The 95 amp aerostar alternator will work fine and needs no mods to fit or work. It's cheap as well.

MDM · 03-23-2002, 10:12 AM

I swapped to the 3G 95 amp unit from PA and have had great results. The stock 2G 65 amp, especially at lower RPMS, does not make the power you need and even at highter RPMS, you are probably taxing it near or beyond its capacity. Overall, the 3G is a superior unit. I would definitely recommend switching the power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. For reasons unknown, the factory Ford piece consists of 2 10 or 12 gauge wires from the alternator, which then join into just one once they get about six inches down the line. I think this is barely adequate for a 65 amp and inadequate for anything stronger. I used a 4 gauge braided copper wire with soldered on copper cable ends. This is more than enough for the 95 or 130 amp unit and will give you good piece of mind for about $10 plus a little work. I did not use it, but I would imagine PA's kit will consist of something similar. Good luck

82 GT · 03-24-2002, 05:04 AM

You could go one step further and buy a POWER MASTER alternator. They come in 100 and 130amp versions.
If you get the race alternator it is a one wire hook up and eliminates that external voltage regulator you have.
I have one on my '82GT and I like it. I just ran a 4# wire from the battery to the alternator and ripped out the voltage regulator and was done!!

RoadWarrior · 03-24-2002, 09:32 PM

If i get a newer alternator with one wire. What all do i have to do to get it to work. Do i only run the wire to the solenoid and all is done? If so thats what ill probably do.

I dont care about keeping my amp gauge intact if it effects that. I have a autometer volt gauge instead. If its that easy it would be great.

So if anyone knows what all is involved in going to one wire i would greatly appreciate it if you could give me an idea of how to do it.

82 GT · 03-24-2002, 11:15 PM

Yes, it's that simple. Just run a heavy wire from the battery side of the selenoid to the power terminal of the alternator.( I used #4 wire...overkill)but 10gauge should do the trick.
That's it!!! Then you can scrap that ugly voltage regulator.
It comes with the simple instructions. I bought mine from Pa performance. They have the one wire type or the standard type but why bother? You can get a 100 or 130 amp alternator but since I don't have any extra power accessories I just got the 100 amp unit. They even come with both types of pulleys in case you have the sepentine belt or V groove belts.
Any more questions just let me know.

stanger8172 · 03-25-2002, 02:05 AM

82GT,
Doesn't the car have too many volts running through it now with no voltage regulator? How does that work?

I bought the Powermaster 130 amp around New Year's and I have had to recharge the battery twice. I have the stock pulley on the alt., no boomin' system, no xtra lights, no parasitic draw, nothin' to make it draw, xcept maybe the battery that's in the trunk. Should I rip out the voltage reg?

DemonGT · 03-25-2002, 02:29 AM

i have the stock alt and i have a mech. volt gauge and it goes up to 18..and at idle it reads all the way up..but when i push the window buttons it goes down ....why would it read all the way up?

82 GT · 03-25-2002, 04:06 PM

Stanger, my alternator is the 1 wire type. It has it's own internal regulator so that's why I could pitch the old external unit.
They also come in standard form in the higher amp ratings which still require the external regulator.
If I remember correctly, the '86-up mustangs have an internal regulator and pre-85 models have that external unit.

DemonGT, You should not have a voltage reading that high. It sounds like the regulator is messed up inside your alternator.
The regulator regulates the amount of voltage it puts out.

03-20-2002, 05:31 PM	#1
RoadWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Edmonton,Alberta,Canada Posts: 317	Power woes For the longest time I've been running low on power in my car. According to my voltage gauge my car gets sufficent power until I begin turning on accessories. With all my accessories going the volts start dipping to the 12-12.5V side of the gauge. I figured it might be because of the extra drains I've put on. I added a Holley Blue pump, an electric fan, a decent stereo, MSD ignition, and I - think - thats about it. But when all is said and done on a cold day it starts to run low on volts. I know '82's didnt have big alternators, but I did get a brand new replacement alt but I'm wondering if the 65amps is good enough. Should I opt for a 100 amp one...even higher? Thanks for any suggestions you can give.

03-20-2002, 05:39 PM	#2
Stang_Crazy It's never clean enough! Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Shaler, PA Posts: 1,542	more is better I had major charging problems after my pulleys so I scrapped the P.O.S. stock alternator for a 130 amp from PA Performance. Now, I don't have any charging problems at all. I would suggest that you get the alternator with the most amps that you can. Better to be safe than sorry and your battery will thank you for it __________________ ~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11

03-20-2002, 05:59 PM	#3
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Low power problem You probably need to invest in a 130 amp alternator. The electric fan and - likely - the stereo are too much for the stock alternator to keep up with.

03-20-2002, 07:12 PM	#5
Stang_Crazy It's never clean enough! Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Shaler, PA Posts: 1,542	PA Performance Since I have the PA Performance alternator, I'm going to, of course, favor them. When I got my alternator, I also got the wire kit that they sell. The wires are very easy to hook up. I have NO electrical experience and found the job to be an easy one. The instructions are clear and pictures are provided incase you need them. I think the wire kit ran me $40 in addition to the alternator. I am very happy and have no complaints. __________________ ~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11

03-23-2002, 07:41 AM	#6
scott9050 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Kalamazoo, MI Posts: 102	The 95 amp aerostar alternator will work fine and needs no mods to fit or work. It's cheap as well. __________________ 1990 5.0 lx aod best 1/4: 13.65 at 104.57 on bad shortblock

03-20-2002, 06:45 PM	#4
RoadWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Edmonton,Alberta,Canada Posts: 317	Thanks. Ya it seems to only really drain when i either turn on my electric fan or kick my heater on. I know that The local parts store has a 100amp alt that will fit my car but should i also re-run the main power wire from the alt because of the higher amperage? I know that PA performance has a complete kit which has new wires and everything but i am on a bit of a tight budget after finishing the engine build up. Otherwise i might just have to live without heat for the next while and spend the extra $$ on the PA piece. Thanks Again for the help. This site is the best

03-23-2002, 10:12 AM	#7
MDM Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Flemington, NJ USA Posts: 166	alternator I swapped to the 3G 95 amp unit from PA and have had great results. The stock 2G 65 amp, especially at lower RPMS, does not make the power you need and even at highter RPMS, you are probably taxing it near or beyond its capacity. Overall, the 3G is a superior unit. I would definitely recommend switching the power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. For reasons unknown, the factory Ford piece consists of 2 10 or 12 gauge wires from the alternator, which then join into just one once they get about six inches down the line. I think this is barely adequate for a 65 amp and inadequate for anything stronger. I used a 4 gauge braided copper wire with soldered on copper cable ends. This is more than enough for the 95 or 130 amp unit and will give you good piece of mind for about $10 plus a little work. I did not use it, but I would imagine PA's kit will consist of something similar. Good luck

03-24-2002, 05:04 AM	#8
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	You could go one step further and buy a POWER MASTER alternator. They come in 100 and 130amp versions. If you get the race alternator it is a one wire hook up and eliminates that external voltage regulator you have. I have one on my '82GT and I like it. I just ran a 4# wire from the battery to the alternator and ripped out the voltage regulator and was done!! __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

03-24-2002, 09:32 PM	#9
RoadWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Edmonton,Alberta,Canada Posts: 317	If i get a newer alternator with one wire. What all do i have to do to get it to work. Do i only run the wire to the solenoid and all is done? If so thats what ill probably do. I dont care about keeping my amp gauge intact if it effects that. I have a autometer volt gauge instead. If its that easy it would be great. So if anyone knows what all is involved in going to one wire i would greatly appreciate it if you could give me an idea of how to do it.

03-24-2002, 11:15 PM	#10
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Yes, it's that simple. Just run a heavy wire from the battery side of the selenoid to the power terminal of the alternator.( I used #4 wire...overkill)but 10gauge should do the trick. That's it!!! Then you can scrap that ugly voltage regulator. It comes with the simple instructions. I bought mine from Pa performance. They have the one wire type or the standard type but why bother? You can get a 100 or 130 amp alternator but since I don't have any extra power accessories I just got the 100 amp unit. They even come with both types of pulleys in case you have the sepentine belt or V groove belts. Any more questions just let me know. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

03-25-2002, 02:05 AM	#11
stanger8172 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Milwaukee,Wisconsin Posts: 380	82GT, Doesn't the car have too many volts running through it now with no voltage regulator? How does that work? I bought the Powermaster 130 amp around New Year's and I have had to recharge the battery twice. I have the stock pulley on the alt., no boomin' system, no xtra lights, no parasitic draw, nothin' to make it draw, xcept maybe the battery that's in the trunk. Should I rip out the voltage reg? __________________ '91 LX convertible , T-5, Centerforce Dual Friction, MSD Blaster Coil, FR 9MM wires, 13* timing, 1.6rr, ported/polished/milled stock heads, 1.94/1.60 stainless valves, March Performance Pulleys, K&N panel, 1"spacer, BBK shorties, 2 1/2" off road H, Summit 2 1/2" catback

03-25-2002, 02:29 AM	#12
DemonGT Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 879	i have the stock alt and i have a mech. volt gauge and it goes up to 18..and at idle it reads all the way up..but when i push the window buttons it goes down ....why would it read all the way up? __________________ '91 GT,410W,10.5 to 1 comp,Victor Jr. heads,Victor 5.8 intake,FTI cam,Crane retro fit lifters,Scorpian 1.6 RR's,Melling HV oil pump,MSD distro.,Canton oil pan,FMS flywheel,Romac balancer,FMS timing chain,Accufab 90mm TB,C&L 76mm maf, 42lbers,HD clutch,K&N air filter,Mac long tubes,Pro dumps,powerchamber,FMS 9mm wires,180 thermostat,Ford Racing gauges,5inch Tach,centerline convo pro's,nitto DR's,Pro3i lower control arms,50/50 shocks,3.55 gears,TFS HD diff. cover Next year: Tremec TKO,Spec stage 3 clutch,alum driveshaft,complete fuel system www.angelfire.com/linux/demondan

03-25-2002, 04:06 PM	#13
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	Stanger, my alternator is the 1 wire type. It has it's own internal regulator so that's why I could pitch the old external unit. They also come in standard form in the higher amp ratings which still require the external regulator. If I remember correctly, the '86-up mustangs have an internal regulator and pre-85 models have that external unit. DemonGT, You should not have a voltage reading that high. It sounds like the regulator is messed up inside your alternator. The regulator regulates the amount of voltage it puts out. __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

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