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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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![]() When I do my intakes I put a washer under each bolt head and torque to anywhere between 30-50 pounds. It works best if you go from the middle of the intake outwards going across the intake. Honestly, I usually just get a 3/8 drive ratchet and tighten them as tight as I can with that length of handle without trying too hard, ya know? After you run your engine a few times, retorque them when it's cooled off. Do that maybe 4 or 5 times because the intake works itself loose for some reason. Hey, I'd like to see pictures of your engine. Sounds a lot like my combo. Except for the hot pink ;-) What kind of fuel pump are you running? Are you using the serpentine belt setup like on the late models? What did you do for an oil dipstick? did you just get the motorsport oilpan kit? I had to take the dipstick hole off of my old pan and cut holes in my new one and bolt it on cause my block is a '76 which does not have the dipstick hole. Anyway, good luck with that. Let us know how it turns out.
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Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites |
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