This chassis is as stiff as a wet noodle!

jmX · 01-28-2001, 03:06 AM

Ok guys, maybe my used 88GT has just had a hard life, but the cars chassis seems very flimsy. I have KB super subs on the car now and they helped a lot, but its still flexing. About once a month if I go up a steep driveway at an angle it'll pop my hatch open from flexing!

So, what else is there. Will a strut tower brace help much? Do they make bolt on rear shock tower braces that work with a fill interior in the car (ie, it just runs through the shock access panels).

I like the car a lot (had it for about 1000 miles), but if I cant make it feel good to me I'm selling it.

Jon
Stock '88 GT
450hp '00 Camaro SS

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 01-28-2001, 03:44 AM

you could get g-brace, strut tower brace, upper & lower control arms, thats all i can think of.
hope this helps
p.s. dont sell your pony!

------------------
No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe (Sounds Mean), K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).

5.0 Coupe · 01-28-2001, 02:57 PM

Full Length subframe connecters that are welded into place work the best. I use the Maximum Motorsports Chassis setup. Go to WWW.Maximummotorsports.com
I have a 90 coupe that had a lot of hard miles on it, once I installed the subframe connectors, g-brace & strut-tower brace it made the car much stiffer and handle much better.

------------------
89 (GR40 Griggs)LX
89 LX Coupe
90 LX Coupe

SlowWhiteGT · 01-29-2001, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 5.0 Coupe:
Full Length subframe connecters that are welded into place work the best. I use the Maximum Motorsports Chassis setup. Go to WWW.Maximummotorsports.com
I have a 90 coupe that had a lot of hard miles on it, once I installed the subframe connectors, g-brace & strut-tower brace it made the car much stiffer and handle much better.

I have the MM setup too, and it helped a lot, but if you need stiffness in the back, hrmm maybe a pan hard bar and torque arm set up, those are for the rearend area.

97snakedriver · 01-29-2001, 01:18 AM

A K-member brace would be nice also. Maximum Motorsports there too.

jmX · 01-29-2001, 02:21 AM

Ok, what is a G-brace? I have long tube headers so it looks like a K-member brace is outta the question.

I'll be getting some maximum motorsport lower control arms soon, but thats more of a suspension piece rather than chassis stiffness.

So there is no such thing as a rear shock tower brace? I think that would fix my hatch from popping open.

Thanks for the replies guys.

Jon

93yelLE · 01-29-2001, 03:24 PM

Umm, thru the floor 2X3" subframes and a 12pt.

------------------
93 yellow limited edition convertible
Black top/interior, 5-spd
3.73's, H-pipe, pullies
Best - 14.13 @ 96.5 on street tires
3650 lbs w/ me.

Skankin · 01-29-2001, 04:32 PM

G brace = k-member brace = lower chassis brace

You should try adjusting the hatch! Mine was way off... you could see where it was rubbing paint off. I could also tell that the body wasn't lined up properly when it was assembled... when it comes to mass production, Quality is really something like Job 69.

Sounds like a roll bar would be a good idea. Maybe something like the KB, so it's not too intrusive.

RUSTANG · 01-29-2001, 05:10 PM

All the aftermarket braces will help but remember it's a unibody car and FORD also used crap metal in the floors. Ever welded anything to it? Sucks burns right through! Best bet to make it as stiff as a rock is full subframes and a cage. Anything less and it will flex!

Spark Checker · 01-29-2001, 11:47 PM

I have a strut tower brace and subs on for over 5 years I have found that the best stiffening parts I put on was jacking rails and a 4 point lower chassis brace. The jacking rails is a 3/4 square tube and a flat bar about 3/8 thick welded to the lower seam located under the rocker panels on each side of the factory seam. Those helped me a lot. I have a 91 GT and I remember that if I parked on a hump with a wheel on the hump the hatch would not close properly. After the jacking rails installed it was minimal twisting on the car. I would suggest that first. Of course a roll cage will help stiffen the car but jacking rails also help a lot. Just remember to have them welded on a flat surface (a wheel lift where all 4 wheels are on a pan) to keep the car flat like in a muffler shop.

Good Luck

------------------
See my mustang at prime-fe2.lvcm.com/sparkckr/pineapple.html

gofastlx · 01-30-2001, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jmX:
About once a month if I go up a steep driveway at an angle it'll pop my hatch open from flexing!

Ewww...If I were you I'd have that thing checked...take it somewhere, and have the sub-frames checked...Popping the hatch open sounds like something more serious..The best thing you can do for frame/body flex is frame ties, and you already have those. I'd have it checked.

Rob

Rob

jmX · 01-31-2001, 04:28 AM

Guys, thanks again for the responses.

Where do jacking rails go? How are these different that the subframe connectors I already have?

As for the hatch popping open, I'm gonna make sure the hatch is aligned properly. its always been hard to shut and hard to open so i'm thinking I just need to tweak it a bit. Maybe I should add the kenny brown matrix sub stuff as well before I go crazy with a 4 point roll bar.

I'm gonna order a MM strut tower brace tomorrow..from my limited time on this board it seems MM is the place of choice for suspension/chassis stuff.

Jon
'88GT

01-28-2001, 03:06 AM	#1
jmX Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Austin, TX USA Posts: 27	This chassis is as stiff as a wet noodle! Ok guys, maybe my used 88GT has just had a hard life, but the cars chassis seems very flimsy. I have KB super subs on the car now and they helped a lot, but its still flexing. About once a month if I go up a steep driveway at an angle it'll pop my hatch open from flexing! So, what else is there. Will a strut tower brace help much? Do they make bolt on rear shock tower braces that work with a fill interior in the car (ie, it just runs through the shock access panels). I like the car a lot (had it for about 1000 miles), but if I cant make it feel good to me I'm selling it. Jon Stock '88 GT 450hp '00 Camaro SS

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01-28-2001, 03:44 AM	#2
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	you could get g-brace, strut tower brace, upper & lower control arms, thats all i can think of. hope this helps p.s. dont sell your pony! ------------------ No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe (Sounds Mean), K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), 198.9 rwhp @4200 (235 Motor!!), 285 lbs-ft @2900 (336 Motor!!!).

01-28-2001, 02:57 PM	#3
5.0 Coupe Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Tulare, CA Posts: 83	Full Length subframe connecters that are welded into place work the best. I use the Maximum Motorsports Chassis setup. Go to WWW.Maximummotorsports.com I have a 90 coupe that had a lot of hard miles on it, once I installed the subframe connectors, g-brace & strut-tower brace it made the car much stiffer and handle much better. ------------------ 89 (GR40 Griggs)LX 89 LX Coupe 90 LX Coupe

01-29-2001, 01:18 AM	#5
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	A K-member brace would be nice also. Maximum Motorsports there too.

01-29-2001, 02:21 AM	#6
jmX Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Austin, TX USA Posts: 27	Ok, what is a G-brace? I have long tube headers so it looks like a K-member brace is outta the question. I'll be getting some maximum motorsport lower control arms soon, but thats more of a suspension piece rather than chassis stiffness. So there is no such thing as a rear shock tower brace? I think that would fix my hatch from popping open. Thanks for the replies guys. Jon

01-29-2001, 03:24 PM	#7
93yelLE Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Andover, KS Posts: 330	Umm, thru the floor 2X3" subframes and a 12pt. ------------------ 93 yellow limited edition convertible Black top/interior, 5-spd 3.73's, H-pipe, pullies Best - 14.13 @ 96.5 on street tires 3650 lbs w/ me.

01-29-2001, 04:32 PM	#8
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	G brace = k-member brace = lower chassis brace You should try adjusting the hatch! Mine was way off... you could see where it was rubbing paint off. I could also tell that the body wasn't lined up properly when it was assembled... when it comes to mass production, Quality is really something like Job 69. Sounds like a roll bar would be a good idea. Maybe something like the KB, so it's not too intrusive.

01-29-2001, 05:10 PM	#9
RUSTANG Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Dale City Va. Posts: 516	All the aftermarket braces will help but remember it's a unibody car and FORD also used crap metal in the floors. Ever welded anything to it? Sucks burns right through! Best bet to make it as stiff as a rock is full subframes and a cage. Anything less and it will flex!

01-29-2001, 11:47 PM	#10
Spark Checker Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Las Vegas, Nv. Posts: 68	I have a strut tower brace and subs on for over 5 years I have found that the best stiffening parts I put on was jacking rails and a 4 point lower chassis brace. The jacking rails is a 3/4 square tube and a flat bar about 3/8 thick welded to the lower seam located under the rocker panels on each side of the factory seam. Those helped me a lot. I have a 91 GT and I remember that if I parked on a hump with a wheel on the hump the hatch would not close properly. After the jacking rails installed it was minimal twisting on the car. I would suggest that first. Of course a roll cage will help stiffen the car but jacking rails also help a lot. Just remember to have them welded on a flat surface (a wheel lift where all 4 wheels are on a pan) to keep the car flat like in a muffler shop. Good Luck ------------------ See my mustang at prime-fe2.lvcm.com/sparkckr/pineapple.html

01-31-2001, 04:28 AM	#12
jmX Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Austin, TX USA Posts: 27	Guys, thanks again for the responses. Where do jacking rails go? How are these different that the subframe connectors I already have? As for the hatch popping open, I'm gonna make sure the hatch is aligned properly. its always been hard to shut and hard to open so i'm thinking I just need to tweak it a bit. Maybe I should add the kenny brown matrix sub stuff as well before I go crazy with a 4 point roll bar. I'm gonna order a MM strut tower brace tomorrow..from my limited time on this board it seems MM is the place of choice for suspension/chassis stuff. Jon '88GT