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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: sacramento california
Posts: 97
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![]() got a foxbody which is the best weight oil to use some say 10w30 10w40 20w50 which is best? block only has about 20k on it
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1993 red cobra 1999 ford lightning 1999 bmw 3m 2003 lincoln ls |
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#2 |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() It all depends on climate IMO. Since you you don't experience winters like I do here in Pa. then I would use 10w-30 or 10w40
20w-50 is for racing and very hot climates and a lot of stop/go driving.
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
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![]() We run full synthetic in all the Mustangs at this house. 5w-30 in the winter ( and it does get cold here) and 10w-30 in the summer. I run Mobile 1 in me and Maw's vehicles and the boys both run Syntec in thier cars. I know, I probably just started a small war about synthetic vs. petroleum but this is what we use and it works to keep peace of mind.
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer. |
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#4 |
I got something to say
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,557
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![]() i use 10w30. I dont use synthetic cause my car has 100,000 miles on it hehe
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91 LX Hatch 5.0 - made for the twisties 89 LX Hatchback 5.0 5spd. stolen/stripped 4/7/05 ![]() http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?3494 1987 Toyota Pickup Ricer Haters Club Member #33 Want a custom gauge cluster for your Vintage Mustang? www.jmeenterprises.com |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: rock hill,S.C. 29730
Posts: 420
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![]() Should I not put synthetic oil in a high milage car?
I was just about to.
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88 GT: subs,pullies, 1 3/4 longtubes, flowmasters, AFR 165's,T,F #1 cam,Thyphoon intake, 24# inj., 73mm C&L,65mmT.B., 190LPH pump, Eagle sir rods, forged pistons in a newly rebuilt 306. DYNO TUNED TO 300.97 RWHP 337RWTQ |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fall River, MA
Posts: 467
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![]() I've always run Mobil1 in everything I have. This has never caused any problems for me. I currently have 105K on the odometer. I change it at around 6000 miles, because it always has a lot of surfactant to it still and this is when it tends to start getting dirty. You want to change your oil when it gets dirty, because all oils are good enough these days to go 20K and still be slick, the problem is the detergents suck up the dirt in your engine and once they have captured as much dirt as they can then the dirt that cannot be "captured" by the detergents will float around in the engine and start to cause damage. When your oil gets dark it's time to change it, and I find that I can usually go 6K between changes using Mobil1.
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'02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford! |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() I just switched to Mobil 1 0W-30 in my truck. Good stuff. Flows faster, better gas mileage, same great protection..
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
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![]() THere was an argument years ago and I suppose it still surfaces now and again that synthetic oil in an old engine would all of a sudden cause multitudes of oil leaks. The argument was perpetrated mostly by people who didn't want to spring for the expensive stuff in an old car and needed an excuse not to do so. I suppose if you had a leak it might get worse, the stuff does flow better but, I've never seen this and I am running it in an engine with 186,000 miles on it right now.
True, running synthetic now after lots of miles won't undo any damage that's already been done and by no means am I asserting that petroleum based oils will damage an engine, I simply mean mileage is mileage, more miles means more wear, no matter which oil you run. However, starting life anew with synthetic oil in an old engine certainly won't hurt anything and perhaps (and I believe it will) it will last even longer than it would have otherwise. I say go for it.
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer. |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Anybody else using 0W-30?
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#10 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 2,875
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Quote:
However, my truck has a TSB (technical service bullutin) issued by the manufacture for a "valve train noise" problem caused by overhead cam engine and hydraulic valve lifters getting air stuck in them and not bleeding out properly or quick enough after startup. The TSB says to use "mobil 1 0w-30" even though the manual calls for 10w-30, and that it still provides all the protection needed as 10w-30 with the additional benefits of faster flow when the engine is cold. food for thought, as cold start up wear is the major cause of engine wear. |
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#12 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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![]() I switched to Mobile 1 tri-synthetic oil after 135,000 miles and never developed one leak. But then again it never had any leaks before I switched. But I agree with Medic. If you have a leak already it will probably get worse.
There is also a slight performance gain to be had with synthetic oils. I saw an article where they gained 8rwhp by switching all the fluids to synthetic. That's not a lot, but every little bit helps. Another benefit is the cleaning power of the Mobile 1 oil. I religeously changed my oil every 3000 miles with the petroleum based oil. When I pulled my valve covers there was a slight film of sludge. I switched to Mobile 1 and ran for around 5 more oil changes or so (at 4000-5000 miles between each oil change) then had to pull my heads to replace the head gaskets. To my amazement when I pulled the valve covers they looked like a brand new set of heads. Not a spec of sludge to be found anywhere. Even the lifter valley looked like a freshly cleaned block. I was very impressed and now swear by this stuff. It may be more expensive, but to me it's one of the best things you can do for your engine...high mileage or not. Another thing that I think may have helped though is I was running the K&N oil filters. The oil seemed to stay clean longer when I swicthed to them.
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Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241 |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 141
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![]() I have seen dyno test that there is a 3-5 rwhp lose using sythetic on mildly built 5 litres, but you cant believe everything you read.
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Lynnwood, WA USA
Posts: 8
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![]() I use Amsoil 0-30 in my car and it works great. No leaks whatsoever. I would recommend synthetic to most anyone.
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#15 | |
Import Slayer
Join Date: May 1999
Posts: 2,241
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![]() Quote:
When I tore my 351 down this summer I did'nt find one bit of sludge in the lifter gally or anywhere else for that matter. I agree the synthetics are better then petro. based oils but there are some excellent petro based oils out there if you don't have the cash for the synthetics.
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'82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator. |
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#16 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
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![]() Yes it are cold here once in a while. This morning it was 17 degrees at my house and it's 5:30pm and a whopping 34 degrees now.
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer. |
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#18 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() Quote:
Ive seen people wear shorts when it was 34 degrees outside. Why you ask? Because it felt warm to them. when your used to temps. in the negatives, 34 degrees is time for a tropicana party.. |
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Jacksonville,Fla.
Posts: 134
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![]() I have tried basically all the top brand oils and recorded time,temp and how well it stood up after 40 runs at the track,this is my result:
Best parrafin based oil(regular motor oil): Pennzoil 10w30 Best Synthetic Blend: Castrol 5w30 Best Full Synthetic: Royal Purple 5w15 ( best 1/4 times) overall We tested 5 major brands on 2 almost identical Mustangs and these are the best WE found based on ET and durability. I personally run royal purple in MY Stang. try your own tests and see what works best for you.
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Jack 1989 Mustang LX: Converted to Carb.650 AED Holley DP,Weiand Stealth Intake,Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum Heads,Hooker Super Comps, Ground Pounder Uppers and Lowers,Moroso Drag Springs,NEW COMP Xtreme Energy Cam and 1.6 RR. ,a few other goodies.*** New 1/4 times-12.50 1987 SC GT ( fast as hell) 2001 Powerstroke Tow Vehicle 1989 Coupe. ![]() Sometimes when you cry,no one sees your tears.......... Sometimes when you are happy,no one sees your smile......... But,FART just ONE time.......... |
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA
Posts: 780
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![]() Yeah, but it was in the 80's here a couple of days ago. I grew up in Maine and you is right. Them Eskimos up yonder can have the cold stuff.
The cold here is nice because it only lasts a couple of months and it's back to the good stuff. I think the longest cold spell I can remember right off was one in 1982, December 16 the temperature fell to 6 degrees and that was the high for about 2 weeks. The bad part is the 30-60 mile an hour winds we have here. See, we're up here in the part of Texas that borders with Alaska. The only thing between us and the North pole is a barbed wire fence and most of it's down. FYI, we use Royal Purple in every piece of rotating equipment in our refinery and the reliability folks swear by the stuff.
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1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer. |
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