1970 Mustang Shock Tower's change

70_Nitrous_Eate · 12-15-2001, 03:36 PM

I've done it:

And let me tell you, it really sucks!

Where are you getting your towers from? I was unable to find any. The only thing I could find were "shock tower skins". And even then it's the lower part of the tower only. No good if yours are completely rusted out like mine were. I was also unwilling to cut a 1/2 way rusted set out of a doner car.

I ended up buying some 1/8" steel plate and fabricateing my own set, using the existing towers as a guide.

Some advice:
1) Install an export brace before you even start the process. Buy a good quality one from a reputable manufacturer. With the export brace in place it'll help align the shock towers.

2) Don't even attempt this without pulling your engine.

3) With the engine removed you're changeing the suspension geometry and if your towers are rusted, they'll move. Make sure you take this into consideration.

It's quite the process and I was lucky. I took her to the alignment shop and they were able to get it almost bang on except my driver side camber is out 2* because I ran out of adjustment. I can fix this with some bolt shims, but the 2* is barely noticeable and it's a pain to do so I'm just going to leave it for now.

Good luck!

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12-15-2001, 03:36 PM	#6
70_Nitrous_Eate Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Kelowna BC, Canada Posts: 82	I've done it: And let me tell you, it really sucks! Where are you getting your towers from? I was unable to find any. The only thing I could find were "shock tower skins". And even then it's the lower part of the tower only. No good if yours are completely rusted out like mine were. I was also unwilling to cut a 1/2 way rusted set out of a doner car. I ended up buying some 1/8" steel plate and fabricateing my own set, using the existing towers as a guide. Some advice: 1) Install an export brace before you even start the process. Buy a good quality one from a reputable manufacturer. With the export brace in place it'll help align the shock towers. 2) Don't even attempt this without pulling your engine. 3) With the engine removed you're changeing the suspension geometry and if your towers are rusted, they'll move. Make sure you take this into consideration. It's quite the process and I was lucky. I took her to the alignment shop and they were able to get it almost bang on except my driver side camber is out 2* because I ran out of adjustment. I can fix this with some bolt shims, but the 2* is barely noticeable and it's a pain to do so I'm just going to leave it for now. Good luck!