thinking rebuild..new block or keep old?

MiracleMax · 01-11-2001, 05:12 PM

Fongo, I'd reuse the old block. I dunno about thermal cycling increasing strength?(makes sense though), but thermal cycling does work all the wrinkles, so to speak, the block is dimensionally more stable than a new casting and is pretty much settled into whatever shape its going to be in. For the most part this is academic unless you are going to blueprint the engine and need a foundation which won't change after you've got the engine together and running.

If I were going to do a rebuild, I'd do the following (keeping the old block, rods, and crank)

1. Clean the old block up (tank it, bore and stress plate hone, deck it)
2. Clean the crank up (resize if nessecary and polish)
3. Clean the rods up (polish and balance along with new rod bolts and resizing if needed.)
4. If your not going to use a poweradder then get a set of hypereutectic pistons and some gapless rings (zero blowby and a tight piston to wall clearence for little or no blowby down the road)
5. Get a set of GT40p heads and set'em up like you want or just get a set of complete heads and match the springs to your cam.
6. get a set of 1-1/2 headers, maybe a cobra intake and a 65mm t-body. 24# injectors. and a bullet mass air meter.

Its a little more involved than just a simple rebuild but wouldn't be that much more expensive, plus things would be good for another 100,000 miles along with some extra power. You might want to go with a new cam but don't go much over .500 lift (or .550) since more valve lift increases wear. Also it would be a good idea if you get a new cam with more lift to go with a set of roller rockers. Not so much for a reduction in friction or even the more accurate ratio's but the reduced side loading on the valve. 1.7's are an option (works out to .472 lift with the stock cam).

the best way to go about this would be to purchase the extra parts beforehand and let'em sit in the closet until you do the rebuild.

Less'see (dug out a Summmit catalog for prices)

1. Cobra Intake 399.95
2. 65mm T-body/EGR plate 230.90
3. Windsor jr. Cyl Heads 624.95
5. 1.6 FRPP Roller Rockers 239.69
6. E303 Cam 159.95
7. ARP rod bolts 39.95
8. Complete Gasket set (EFI) 156.95
9. KB Sil-O-Lite pistons 186.99
10. Total Seal Gapless rings 128.69
-----------------------------------
Parts Cost 2168.29

Machine work would be in the neighborhood of 300-500 dollars (maybe 700? but I if I remeber correctly on past projects the total machine work was not that much) So I'll go with 700.00

2900.00 bucks minus injectors and mass air meter which would bring it to about 3500.00

This is for new equipment so a fair bit of money could be saved by hunting down used stuff in good condition (however I've always subscribed to buyer beware in this instance since you don't know what people have knowingly or unknowingly done to them) Also I substituted 1 or 2 items because I couldn't get a price out of the catalog on them, but I figure there a good reference in any case.

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01-11-2001, 05:12 PM	#6
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	Fongo, I'd reuse the old block. I dunno about thermal cycling increasing strength?(makes sense though), but thermal cycling does work all the wrinkles, so to speak, the block is dimensionally more stable than a new casting and is pretty much settled into whatever shape its going to be in. For the most part this is academic unless you are going to blueprint the engine and need a foundation which won't change after you've got the engine together and running. If I were going to do a rebuild, I'd do the following (keeping the old block, rods, and crank) 1. Clean the old block up (tank it, bore and stress plate hone, deck it) 2. Clean the crank up (resize if nessecary and polish) 3. Clean the rods up (polish and balance along with new rod bolts and resizing if needed.) 4. If your not going to use a poweradder then get a set of hypereutectic pistons and some gapless rings (zero blowby and a tight piston to wall clearence for little or no blowby down the road) 5. Get a set of GT40p heads and set'em up like you want or just get a set of complete heads and match the springs to your cam. 6. get a set of 1-1/2 headers, maybe a cobra intake and a 65mm t-body. 24# injectors. and a bullet mass air meter. Its a little more involved than just a simple rebuild but wouldn't be that much more expensive, plus things would be good for another 100,000 miles along with some extra power. You might want to go with a new cam but don't go much over .500 lift (or .550) since more valve lift increases wear. Also it would be a good idea if you get a new cam with more lift to go with a set of roller rockers. Not so much for a reduction in friction or even the more accurate ratio's but the reduced side loading on the valve. 1.7's are an option (works out to .472 lift with the stock cam). the best way to go about this would be to purchase the extra parts beforehand and let'em sit in the closet until you do the rebuild. Less'see (dug out a Summmit catalog for prices) 1. Cobra Intake 399.95 2. 65mm T-body/EGR plate 230.90 3. Windsor jr. Cyl Heads 624.95 5. 1.6 FRPP Roller Rockers 239.69 6. E303 Cam 159.95 7. ARP rod bolts 39.95 8. Complete Gasket set (EFI) 156.95 9. KB Sil-O-Lite pistons 186.99 10. Total Seal Gapless rings 128.69 ----------------------------------- Parts Cost 2168.29 Machine work would be in the neighborhood of 300-500 dollars (maybe 700? but I if I remeber correctly on past projects the total machine work was not that much) So I'll go with 700.00 2900.00 bucks minus injectors and mass air meter which would bring it to about 3500.00 This is for new equipment so a fair bit of money could be saved by hunting down used stuff in good condition (however I've always subscribed to buyer beware in this instance since you don't know what people have knowingly or unknowingly done to them) Also I substituted 1 or 2 items because I couldn't get a price out of the catalog on them, but I figure there a good reference in any case.