Car Is Running Like A POS Now, Please Help

BowTie Eater 5 Liter · 02-18-2002, 11:18 PM

Well, since i swapped headers, h-pipe, and replaced the oil pump, the car would not start, then we got another distributor module off another distributor, the car finally started, but it runs like a pile.

it has a bad *** exhaust leak coming from the passanger header, and i will try to fix that tomorrow.

the main problem, is it wont idle, and it has no power.

Unit suggested it might be the new module, any clue?
i will try resetting the compuer, but im not sure how???

thank you very much!

Capri306 · 02-19-2002, 03:36 AM

Check your firing order, timing, and plug wires. No, go DOUBLE CHECK your firing order!

Be sure to remove the spOUT connector when setting timing. If you really wanna reset the computer, just disconnect the battery for >5 minutes and reconnect. I really doubt this will help though. Did you disconnect the coolant temperature sensor or something, and forget to reconnect it?

You sure that oil pump isn't seized or something? I'd pull the distributor and check that if the ignition checks out. Something smells funny. Good luck.

chris91LX · 02-19-2002, 12:51 PM

I put my combo together, set the idle, fuel pressure, tps and timing and decided to take it for a shake down run. I got half way down the street and the car is backfiring and bucking anytime I step on the gas, I'm like WTF I'm gonna take it out back and shott the damn thing. I open the hood and there's the spout connector on the radiator. No problem once I put that back. The moral of this story is to check the stupid stuff first.

Might be the module, or firing order is mixed up, I wouldn't think the exhaust would have anything to do with it. I also heard that sometimes a piece of debris like gasket, or gasket sealer can get wedged into the oil pump and cause some serious probs. Just guessing though.

Jeb_Bush_2000 · 02-19-2002, 02:28 PM

I once spent 6 months trying to fix an old 2.5L "Iron Duke" inline-4. I threw $500 in parts at it, then found out the distributor was in backwards.

Check the stupid stuff first.

Unit 5302 · 02-19-2002, 07:37 PM

Thanks to fiveohpatrol for giving BowTie Eater 5 Liter the information that you need to pull the spout connector before you time it, hahahahaah.

Sorry man, I couldn't resist.

fiveohpatrol · 02-19-2002, 10:47 PM

LOL

hey, the only reason I said that to him was because I've done that in the past before. But I knew what I did as soon as I tried to drive the car. He described exactly what my car did, so...

we all make dumb mistakes, just some of us do it more often than others

(ie. me)

RPM427 · 02-20-2002, 12:57 AM

What happens when you forget to remove the spout connector when you change the timing. I know to remove it, but i never found out why?

Capri306 · 02-20-2002, 08:06 PM

If you DON'T remove the spOUT connector, you'll be setting the timing when the computer is already advancing it quite a bit. The net effect is, your motor will run like shat!!!

At idle, the timing is advanced about...I wanna say 16* from baseline, and baseline timing is the most important thing to have correct. Baseline is simply the timing position without ANY computer advance. Since the TFI-IV module and EEC-IV control all aspects of timing, there isn't anything else you have to mess with, i.e. vacuum advance, weights, and mechanical CRAP. Aren't computers wonderful?

02-18-2002, 11:18 PM	#1
BowTie Eater 5 Liter Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World Posts: 871	Car Is Running Like A POS Now, Please Help Well, since i swapped headers, h-pipe, and replaced the oil pump, the car would not start, then we got another distributor module off another distributor, the car finally started, but it runs like a pile. it has a bad *** exhaust leak coming from the passanger header, and i will try to fix that tomorrow. the main problem, is it wont idle, and it has no power. Unit suggested it might be the new module, any clue? i will try resetting the compuer, but im not sure how??? thank you very much! __________________ 1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~

02-19-2002, 03:36 AM	#2
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	Check your firing order, timing, and plug wires. No, go DOUBLE CHECK your firing order! Be sure to remove the spOUT connector when setting timing. If you really wanna reset the computer, just disconnect the battery for >5 minutes and reconnect. I really doubt this will help though. Did you disconnect the coolant temperature sensor or something, and forget to reconnect it? You sure that oil pump isn't seized or something? I'd pull the distributor and check that if the ignition checks out. Something smells funny. Good luck. __________________ Capri306, Moderator The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri 1987 5.0L Mustang LX Notchback 1993 5.8L Eddie Bauer Bronco

02-19-2002, 02:28 PM	#4
Jeb_Bush_2000 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Taxachusetts Posts: 374	I once spent 6 months trying to fix an old 2.5L "Iron Duke" inline-4. I threw $500 in parts at it, then found out the distributor was in backwards. Check the stupid stuff first. __________________ Stripped-down '93 LX Coupe -- "Danielle" R.I.P. 05/30/02 "I've seen some crazy stuff in my life, but that...was...AWESOME!!! Oh, sorry about your car, man."

02-19-2002, 10:47 PM	#6
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	LOL hey, the only reason I said that to him was because I've done that in the past before. But I knew what I did as soon as I tried to drive the car. He described exactly what my car did, so... we all make dumb mistakes, just some of us do it more often than others (ie. me) __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

02-20-2002, 12:57 AM	#7
RPM427 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Huntington NY Posts: 573	What happens when you forget to remove the spout connector when you change the timing. I know to remove it, but i never found out why? __________________ -1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out!

02-19-2002, 12:51 PM	#3
chris91LX Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Suburban Chicago, Hanover Park Posts: 695	I put my combo together, set the idle, fuel pressure, tps and timing and decided to take it for a shake down run. I got half way down the street and the car is backfiring and bucking anytime I step on the gas, I'm like WTF I'm gonna take it out back and shott the damn thing. I open the hood and there's the spout connector on the radiator. No problem once I put that back. The moral of this story is to check the stupid stuff first. Might be the module, or firing order is mixed up, I wouldn't think the exhaust would have anything to do with it. I also heard that sometimes a piece of debris like gasket, or gasket sealer can get wedged into the oil pump and cause some serious probs. Just guessing though.

02-19-2002, 07:37 PM	#5
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	Thanks to fiveohpatrol for giving BowTie Eater 5 Liter the information that you need to pull the spout connector before you time it, hahahahaah. Sorry man, I couldn't resist.

02-20-2002, 08:06 PM	#8
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	If you DON'T remove the spOUT connector, you'll be setting the timing when the computer is already advancing it quite a bit. The net effect is, your motor will run like shat!!! At idle, the timing is advanced about...I wanna say 16* from baseline, and baseline timing is the most important thing to have correct. Baseline is simply the timing position without ANY computer advance. Since the TFI-IV module and EEC-IV control all aspects of timing, there isn't anything else you have to mess with, i.e. vacuum advance, weights, and mechanical CRAP. Aren't computers wonderful? __________________ Capri306, Moderator The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri 1987 5.0L Mustang LX Notchback 1993 5.8L Eddie Bauer Bronco

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