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#6 |
Mustang Addict
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,294
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![]() The price seems to vary quite a bit depending on who you get it from. The drag racing k-members tend to run alot cheaper and are lighter, but they are not as laterally stiff as those sold by Griggs racing, Kenny Brown, and Maximum Motorsports. I have a D&D Motorsports k-member (not the drag-only, the street/strip model) and arms because they were one of the few companies that made one for the newer cars at the time I bought it and I couldn't afford the Griggs setup at the time. I think I paid around $700 for the k-member, tubular arms, and coilover kit. Since my main aim with my car is to carve corners, in hindsight I would probably get one of the roadracing setups I mentioned above. Again, those are not as light as some of the others but are probably better for cornering loads and a bit more durable should you run into anything.
I bent my stock k-member in an accident when the car was fairly new, so all the labor was done by the body shop and paid for by insurance. I'll take a look at the final estimate when I get home this evening and see if I can make sense enough of the R&I labor to give you an idea of what it should cost if you were to have it done at a shop.
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Strike down the unroadworthy! 2000 GT Atl. Blue: '03 Cobra motor - 465rwhp/473rwtq, T-56 6-speed, full MM TA/PH & tubular K-member suspension, Saleen body, 17" Torq-Thrust II's, M/T ET Street radials, and lots more '94 Rio Red Cobra: All the bolt-ons, 3.73s |
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