Heat Problems Continue

A Wild Neg · 05-02-2001, 01:39 PM

SmokeDawg:

I have the same problem. My car is completely stripped out and redone only for racing. It is street legal, and can't be driven to far. If i'm moving non stop it stays about 190-200 but when I start going and stopping, it just shoots up. On warm days it can get 220 - 240 no problem. Thats when I get leaks and hoses force open

I talked to a guy about it about 2 weeks ago, he suggest getting this dual raditor system that a company offers. I can get you the name of it. He suggested two fans, and to check the thermastat and waterpump. He said defintly check the timing as well. All is good, but when I did check the water flow of the raditor (He said pop the cap off and watch it while the car is running.). There is barely any flow at all. I talked to him, he said there should be a good flow going and you will SEE it flowing. If you can't really tell its moving, then something is up. Either something is jammed in somewhere blocking passages, or the waterpump isn't working properly. He also said check the thermastat. I changed the thermastat recently, so maybe I put it in backwords, but I don't think so. I'm going to be taking it out and getting a 'restrictor'. It's a cicrular device that goes in replace of it. Prevents a open hole, and keeps water in the radiotr a little longer to cool off. Just check the flow see if thats the main problem or not. I was told with a 3 chamber alum raditor and electric fan, it should stay pretty cool still. Will run hotter then a normal block, but still not run no 220-240. Let me know what you find! I'll let you know how the restrictors work!

- Kevin (A Wild Neg)
- AIM: A Wild Neg

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05-02-2001, 01:39 PM	#1
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	SmokeDawg: I have the same problem. My car is completely stripped out and redone only for racing. It is street legal, and can't be driven to far. If i'm moving non stop it stays about 190-200 but when I start going and stopping, it just shoots up. On warm days it can get 220 - 240 no problem. Thats when I get leaks and hoses force open I talked to a guy about it about 2 weeks ago, he suggest getting this dual raditor system that a company offers. I can get you the name of it. He suggested two fans, and to check the thermastat and waterpump. He said defintly check the timing as well. All is good, but when I did check the water flow of the raditor (He said pop the cap off and watch it while the car is running.). There is barely any flow at all. I talked to him, he said there should be a good flow going and you will SEE it flowing. If you can't really tell its moving, then something is up. Either something is jammed in somewhere blocking passages, or the waterpump isn't working properly. He also said check the thermastat. I changed the thermastat recently, so maybe I put it in backwords, but I don't think so. I'm going to be taking it out and getting a 'restrictor'. It's a cicrular device that goes in replace of it. Prevents a open hole, and keeps water in the radiotr a little longer to cool off. Just check the flow see if thats the main problem or not. I was told with a 3 chamber alum raditor and electric fan, it should stay pretty cool still. Will run hotter then a normal block, but still not run no 220-240. Let me know what you find! I'll let you know how the restrictors work! - Kevin (A Wild Neg) - AIM: A Wild Neg