what gives. Subframe Connectors for 1987 convertible.

[JohnnyG]

I have the Maximum Motorsports full-length connectors.

As you described, I welded the edges of the factory braces to the frame rail. Then, you'll notice little flanges that hang down from each cut on the factory braces... I used an angle grinder to take these flanges off along the frame rail. This was done on all four factory braces (front & back).

Now the connectors were able to lay relatively flush against the frame rail. The 1/16" thick factory brace (with the flanges now ground-off) caused minimal interference- the gap between the frame rail and the connector was a maximum of 1/16" in only a couple of places.

The full-length connectors were welded in place, and I laid a thicker weld along the areas where there was a small gap.

There were three locating tabs on the connector that were welded to the frame, but the majority of welding was the connector directly on the frame... welded more or less the entire length of the connector. This left a finished product built like a brick s***house!

I don't know about the Kenny Brown subs, but the MM connectors were bent to follow the curve of the floor pan, and this curve was able to be further "tweaked" at the time of installation. MM then provided reinforcing plates to be welded in at the bends in the connectors, thus providing a form-fitting, yet uncompromised stiff connector.

So to answer your question, the full length connector sat maximally flush without giving up the factory bracing. Any areas where the connector wasn't touching the frame was filled with weld. The result was a hellova solid foundation, and despite the more complicated install, I would not do it any differently.

MM makes a great product... I won't give you a sales pitch, but I'll tell you that they do it right... and I see no room for improvement with this product.

-John