

© Copyright 1995 thru 2008 - The Mustang Works™. All Rights Reserved.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
![]() |
#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 488
|
![]() Ok it finallyhappened to me. A buddy of mine was getting in the passenger side the other day and busted my door handle. How do I go about changing these out? I went ahead and bought both the driver and passenger side. From the looks of it they have rivets in them. Anybody had the opportunity to change a few of these? Any help is greatly appreciated. Hoping to do this saturday.
Chris |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Dirk Diggler
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: SLOATSBURG, NY
Posts: 1,931
|
![]() roll up the window, pop the door cover off, drill the rivits..you will see how it comes off..you need a larger rivit gun to put it back on..i dont rember what size..or you can go ghetto and use bolts and nuts..either or works
------------------ 1987 black notch(ex 4 banger) DSS 306 w/ main support...Elderbrock 6028 heads..gt-40 intake..24# injectors...70 mm tb..77 pro-m...accel 300+..mac full legnth..tremec w/ pro5oh...full MAC exhaust,off road h-pipe,long tubes, catback...ron davis radiator..subframes, control arms...CFDF II..o yea holley FPR sucks..dont buy one.. AIM=onesillynotch |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: lincoln, NE
Posts: 80
|
![]() I had both of mine fixed at different times. It cost $50 the first time and $130 the next. Dont know why but it really POed me.
Greg |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]() I wouldn't say putting bolts in is ghetto. Since I went to every tool supply store around to find a rivet gun big enought to put the rivets that came with the door handle. I used bolts on my buddy's car. No one ever sees the bolts.
Did you buy metal or plastic ones? My buddy ordered the metal ones from Texas mustang parts. I don't think they will ever break. |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 879
|
![]() i have one plactic and one metal one on my car..i used bolts for both..never have a prob yet
------------------ '91 GT,91K,T-5,air silencer removed,racing clutch(previous owner put in so dont know what kind),K&N air filter,Aiwa deck,power acoustic amp,2 12" pianeers,Mac long tubes,Cat-back,off road H,FMS 9mm wires,Competition gauges,C&L 76mm MAF Future Mods:3.73's,Pro 5.0,Shifter knob,E303 cam,cobra intake,65mm tb ICQ#35670781 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 2,089
|
![]() If you use bolts, be sure to use those lock nuts with the nylon inserts. Or use thread locker.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 488
|
![]() Ok, as far as drilling the rivets, did you guys do that from the inside or the outside of the door? I bought a pair of metal handles from Late Model Restoration Supply for $29, they paid the shipping since I was a first time customer. Thanx for all the replys.
Chris |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: W. Springfield, PA
Posts: 65
|
![]() Drill from the outside. Be carefull though, I think the center pop stud from the rivets is steel while the rivet itself is aluminum. Your drill will want to walk off center.
Try and get Low Head Socket Cap screws or Button Head Socket Cap screws either from a tool shop or bolt supply store. (I used Low Heads becase that is what the shop had) They may or may not be easy for you to find but I'll bet its easier than trying to find a 1/4" rivet and gun to fit it. ------------------ '92 GT conv. TFS heads, GT40, Powerdyne 9#, AOD, 3.73... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: San Diego, Ca USA
Posts: 52
|
![]() Its simple, ya dont need any kind of special parts other then the right size of bolt to fit through the opening, and big enough head to grab the door, and a thread locking nut, if the bolts you buy are too long and dont allow for proper window travel, then cut them down.
------------------ '93 Gt, Stock as a rock, but plan an AOD to T-5z swap, steeda tri-ax shifter, 3.73's, cobra intake, gt-40 irons, e303 cam, 1.7 rr's, bbk headers, off road h-pipe, flowmasters cat back, msd ignition, blaster coil, mac cold air box (fenderwell), eibach springs, silver cobra r's, etc... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa
Posts: 1,407
|
![]() Like someone mentioned, they are cheap from a texas stang parts, i got mine from the ford dealer for 50$ yikes!, and a body shop put it on for 20$ and they had the rivet gun, and didnt even take the panel off
![]() ------------------ 90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 next mods: subframes, mac h-pipe |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Lawrence, KS, USA
Posts: 169
|
![]() one of mine broke over winter, so i replaced both...the car already had bolts on it, so i just used em again
no probs as of yet ![]() ------------------ SHaFTed 91GT, Flows, dumps, 70MM BBK TB, K&N, Hurst short throw, T5, 17" Lexani Roma wheels, 235/40/R17 on front, 255/45/R17 on back, mach1 hood, LX tail lights, bright red! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 488
|
![]() Great thanx for all the help! Once again everybody on this board has helped me out with a problem that I've had. I appreciate all the replies. I will try to get this done today and let you guys know how it went.
Chris |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|