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#8 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Good luck on the project.
Just remember, that install overview on my site is pretty general and I know I left out some details. When you mate the converter to the tranny, make sure it is seated on all sets of splines, otherwise you will burn up the converter. Also, when you get the tranny bolted back up to the block, check the fit of the converter on the flywheel. It should have just a little bit of slack before you install the bolts. When you have the tranny out and the converter out, you need to replace the front seal as well. It's only a few bucks from Autozone or somewhere and a breeze to install. You're likely going to spill a bunch of fluid of the back of the tranny due to tipping it. Just be aware and have a catch pan handy. Also, the driveshaft bolts can be a bear to take off. Spray a good bit of monkey grease on the bolts and let em soak and use an impact or a long breaker bar to get them free. You'll need a 12mm (if I remember correct) 12 sided socket. --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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