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Old 10-03-2002, 03:09 PM   #6
Jeff65
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 208
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If you install the headers yourself then you have the problem of getting the car to the muffler shop with no reducers, headpipes, etc. You'll have to trailer it. The beauty of paying the extra $180 is they are responsible for installing the complete system. This can be an advantage. Is it worth $180?

Your Hooker Comps need about 4' clearance under the car to get the headers in. How are you gonna raise your car 4' high at home? Can they be installed from the top side? I don't think so, not without removing and replacing the heads. You also have to remove the clutch linkage if you've got it and reinstall it with the headers occulting the clutch linkage z-bar. The z-bar goes back in easiest from the top using a Chevy distributor wrench to tighten the two frame bracket bolts. The bolts have to be placed in the header...several are very tight fit and take some patience to get started. The labor is about 1 hour per side and they are charging you 3 hours total. They're hedging their bets something won't go in easily. 6901-1's fit my 5.0L powered '65 with little hassle and no banging on them was needed. The only point of interference I had was with my California Pony Cars engine pivot adapter. I had to cut a crescent out of it to permit the 3L tube to pass by without touching. This would not have been a problem on a stock 289 or early 302.

I'd pay the $480 for the job and be done with it. Note: I paid $400 for the same work but used 2.25 with Dynomax.
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