X,B,or E303 camshaft?

[Jeff Chambers]

Don't let anyone ever tell you that the P heads are junk. If you've got concerns about staying smog legal, are on a low budget, restricted by class rules, or just want to retain that factory look, they're a great option. Like anything else you bolt to your car, you've got to understand how they work and carefully select your parts to go with them for maximum performance. Max performance isn't going to come from an E-cam or a cam straight out of the Comp Cams catalog, but maximum performance won't pass smog testing either (in most cases). If its a daily driver that's got to pass smog testing, then I'd try to keep the duration to 225 or 230 max at 0.050" lift. More duration can be made to pass the tests, but it usually takes a little finess to make it happen.

The P heads will support well into the 450hp to 500hp range, with the stock sized valves and in unported form. I've seen it happen, more than once. And that's with a .500" lift cam and shorty headers. Don't get all hung up on the flow numbers that head manufacturer's try to push. Flow is definitely important, but it's not going to help a bit if you're not building to support/use it. My heads only flow 201/140 at 28 in-H20 yet they made 465hp/424ft-lbs on the dyno.

Don't take everything that read to be the God's truth. Read/learn as much as you can, talk with folks who have done different things, then try to apply what you think fits in with your goals. Also set your goals and expectations reasonably. You can't expect to build a 400hp street sleeper on a $1000 budget nor do it overnight. Be patient and make sound decisions.

By the way, my GT-40P heads will be for sale here very shortly....any takers?