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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 247
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![]() We will have to see what pkrwud says, he is great on the numbers.....
For an early 69-70 block like mine, their nickle content is fairly good, so I have seen 1,000 hp mills hold up with girdles and dry sumps. If going wet sump, you must use a crank scrapper, 14.00 dollars, a windage tray, 149.00 and a girdle is highly recommended as would be head and main studs. Just keep the overbore to .030 if possible. Make the cylinder walls too thin and you will run HOT. Are you going to use the E cam or the X cam on your engine? Either one should be pretty hot, but you might want to cook this up a bit if someone makes a computer friendly higher lift cam. For Later blocks like 71 and up, ford reduced the nickle content in the blocks. If going above 600 hp you might consider the Ford Motorsport block in the Motorsport catalog. It uses the splayed 4 bolt mains, has extra material around the mains and the rails. These are good to over 1,000 HP. If you are running or sustaining high rpms, you must use a crank scraper. Someone mentioned the ultra cool Dart small block ford block. I have not seen it or read about it yet, but some 7 second guys said it is the bomb. Hope this helps some. Don't go cheap on a crank if turning more than 600 hp. And buy a name quality crank, not a relabled unit. Have you given up on the turbo idea, or do you plan to use hair dryers on the 351?
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1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi |
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