What does it take to hit 7,500 RPM

[ultraflo]

Originally posted by srv1
not to get off the subject(i think), but no one every talked about lubrication for 7000 RPM's. what pan? what scraper? what girdle? what oil pump? HVLP? what type of oil pump? this i think is VERY important also i want to build mine to run 6500 MAX rpm's safely. so basically it is a question for me and vettereatr and anyone else who doesnt know.

I use a Moroso T-sump pan (I would've destroyed a deep sump pan when I did the wheelstand in late Oct. ), which has a sort of basic/universal scraper incorporated into it. In other words, it doesn't extend out to fit around the crank throws and main caps like a true crank scraper does. It's better than nothing at all, I guess.

DSS/SVO girdle (don't forget to align hone the block once installing the girdle for those who aren't/weren't aware). I've read where the alum. girdles do a better job of dampening harmonics, but I cannot personnally attest to the claim, just thought I'd throw that out there for discussion. It's a nice piece and is actually for sale (girdle and studs) if anyone is interested.

The topic of oil pumps is one I'd like to know more about... I used a Mellings HV oil pump on my last combo. At this point, I am unsure which route I will go as far as HV or Std.Vol. The Std. pump takes less HP to run, however, the added benefit of a the HV pump seems to good to pass up. That, and the Moroso catalog calls for the HVHP pump with the T-sump pan. I need to do some more homework on which pump I am going to end up using on the R-306 combo.

In theory, you only need 10psi/1000rpms... if that's the case, when I split my stock block and had 20psi at idle, I was good to go I had 80psi at idle when the motor was fresh, and after 2 1/2yrs. of beating on it, it ended up around 65psi at idle a few months before the block let go. I tore the motor down thinking the bearings were done, the looked like new and I even plasti-guaged the rods and mains and the clearances where still tight. Put it all back together and gave 'er hell. I think the outstanding bite the M/T's offer over the Goodyears played a role in the block letting go, since the Mickey's wouldn't spin off the line All that energy was transferred up through the drivetrain/motor and the weak link (stock block) let go at over 600hp being put down to the pavement (dropped .2 off my ET just from a tire swap)

That's it, in a nutshell... Hopefully my ramblings can offer some insight into the next combo anyone may be getting ready to put together. I'm learning as I go, and don't claim to be a serious engine builder... the last motor I ran was assembled by me, and I was amazed that it lasted as long as it did. "Props" to the guy that did all of the machine work for me... I'll be visiting him again soon, once I finish preping the R-block.