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#6 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Norman, Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 597
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Get the cheapest underdrive pulleys you can find, In my opinion they will only make a slight difference but considering their cost, it could be worth it to you. 10-15 HP. maybe more I don't know, maybe someone's actually gone to the trouble of dynoing a car with and without them. As for the rear end, depending on where the sound is coming from and what the sound sounds like, it could be worn U joints, a screwed up axle bearing that's sloppy, a screwed up control arm bushing that's sloppy, something with your brakes, who knows, take it to a shop that will do a free inspection. Take it to more than one to see if they say the same thing. It's not really worth trying to diagnose a problem who's symptoms are a noise when I can't hear the noise. Know what I mean? It'd be like if you told a doctor "I've got this thing on my forehead, it looks weird, it's some kind of weird thing, what is it?"
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Michael Black QuantumMotorsports Norman, OK 1984 LX Hatch 306 w/ TRW forged flat toppers, Comp Cams Magnum 292H, GT40P heads w/ 3 angle valve job, .550 lift springs, Angus Racing Roller Rockers, Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 4150 650cfm carb, MAC 1 5/8 Long Tubes, Single Chamber Flowmasters, 91' T5 w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, Turbo Coupe 8.8 Rear w/ 3.55 gears, QA1 Motorsports tubular K member, no interior except steering wheel and seat. Coming soon: 6 or 8 point cage, Fuel Cell, Weld Draglites |
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