How hot can aluminum heads get before they warp?

Stang_ROTY · 08-08-2001, 09:55 AM

I did not pressure test the cap. How can I do it? I'll try anything at this point.

QUOTE]Originally posted by PKRWUD:
[B]What about the cap?

No, I didn't specify 180, so naturally the Stant would open first. The funny thing is that these thermo's don't open until the water boils which is 212 degrees. What good is that doing my engine?

I'm surprised you had trouble with a Ford T-stat. The OEM replacement is a 192 degree t-stat. Did you specify a 180?

I DO want to make it simple. I have the stock crank pulley (from Mach) installed now. As far as the water pump pulley goes, it's part of the March kit #2010. March said that shouldn't be a problem 'cause the stock crank pulley is back in place. The fan is a flex-a-lite for reverse rotation and it is arriving today. The shroud will be in tomarrow. I have a 180 degree thermo made by Robert Shaw which everyone says is real good brand. Also, I have a police duty clutch from a 85 Crown Vic but I won't use it right away per your instructions. Also, I have started it with and without the cap. Without the cap some of the fluid blows out of the radiator and then needs to be refilled. I think it's also important to metion that I'm doing all this testing with the front end of the car on a decline. I should probably back it out of the driveway and get her on level ground for my next test, right? Thanks for the help.

If you really want to make this simple, you can. Pressure test the cap to 15 psi, put in a verified 180 t-stat, the stock pullies, a mechanical fan WITHOUT ANY CLUTCH, and a shroud that is no further away from the fan blades than a half inch. It is also important that the fan is spaced away from the engine exactly to the point where, when installed with the shroud, half of the blade is inside the shroud, and half is out. The fan is useless without a properly fitted shroud. The shroud's not there to protect your fingers, it's there to create a seal around the fan creating a vacuum that sucks cool air through your radiator. If you do those 5 simple things, you will either solve your problem, or make certian that the problem lies in the engine. If you would rather do part now, and part later, you're going to be chasing your tail, again.

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08-08-2001, 09:55 AM	#19
Stang_ROTY Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Berkshire County - Massachusetts Posts: 735	I did not pressure test the cap. How can I do it? I'll try anything at this point. QUOTE]Originally posted by PKRWUD: [B]What about the cap? No, I didn't specify 180, so naturally the Stant would open first. The funny thing is that these thermo's don't open until the water boils which is 212 degrees. What good is that doing my engine? I'm surprised you had trouble with a Ford T-stat. The OEM replacement is a 192 degree t-stat. Did you specify a 180? I DO want to make it simple. I have the stock crank pulley (from Mach) installed now. As far as the water pump pulley goes, it's part of the March kit #2010. March said that shouldn't be a problem 'cause the stock crank pulley is back in place. The fan is a flex-a-lite for reverse rotation and it is arriving today. The shroud will be in tomarrow. I have a 180 degree thermo made by Robert Shaw which everyone says is real good brand. Also, I have a police duty clutch from a 85 Crown Vic but I won't use it right away per your instructions. Also, I have started it with and without the cap. Without the cap some of the fluid blows out of the radiator and then needs to be refilled. I think it's also important to metion that I'm doing all this testing with the front end of the car on a decline. I should probably back it out of the driveway and get her on level ground for my next test, right? Thanks for the help. If you really want to make this simple, you can. Pressure test the cap to 15 psi, put in a verified 180 t-stat, the stock pullies, a mechanical fan WITHOUT ANY CLUTCH, and a shroud that is no further away from the fan blades than a half inch. It is also important that the fan is spaced away from the engine exactly to the point where, when installed with the shroud, half of the blade is inside the shroud, and half is out. The fan is useless without a properly fitted shroud. The shroud's not there to protect your fingers, it's there to create a seal around the fan creating a vacuum that sucks cool air through your radiator. If you do those 5 simple things, you will either solve your problem, or make certian that the problem lies in the engine. If you would rather do part now, and part later, you're going to be chasing your tail, again.