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#10 | |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() Quote:
I have one on my car and as far as street driving goes, it makes no difference as compared to my old steel one. At the strip, it's just about the same to launch, except that it doesn't have the same 'hit' when you release the clutch at a given RPM. Easy to rectify by merely raising the RPMs (and we're not talking a whole lot here). In almost all cases, your car will pick-up ET & MPH with an aluminum flywheel. Think about it this way...many people ditch the stock driveshaft for the lighter aluminum version in order to rid the driveline of rotating mass, or in a similar example, we put on lightweight racing wheels, as opposed to the heavy stockers, again, in an effort to reduce rotating mass. The same holds true for the flywheel, or lightweight pistons, I-beams, etc. The most noticible downside to reducing rotating mass is the 'hit' to the tires when you drop the clutch at an equal RPM. If you've got 200 pounds of metal swinging at 5000 rpms vs. only 100 pounds of metal at 5000 rpms, the energy released upon the tires will be greater with the heavier driveline. However, as soon as the 'hit' is over with, the engine has to start working again to bring up the rpms through every single gear. This is where the lighter weight driveline really comes on strong. In a very heavy car, you would want a heavier driveline to help get the car rolling off the line, however my Mustang is relatively lightweight and I have absolutely no problem roasting the tires at the drop of a hat. In fact, I struggle just to keep the tires from spinning while launching the car at the track on drag radials. The article in MM&FF had more technical girth to it than my simple examples above, but I think you see what I'm saying. Hope this helps, E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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