Cleaning up engine wiring

Jeff65 · 02-03-2004, 03:19 PM

Here's what I did to my '65:

a. Removed the harnesses.
b. Examined each for layout, condition and connectors. Determined what to fix.
c. Bought an old harness from a early Falcon to salvage connectors and wire from (couldn't find a Mustang). Paid $5 for the Falcon under dash harness.
d. Untaped segments of the wire as needed to repair.

Substituted connectors when needed and as they fit to make a good Mustang harness. All bad wiring was cut out and replaced with good wire segments and connectors. Restomod wiring and connectors were included in the reworked harness. Wiring was carefully re-taped. Black heat shrink was used over taped ends to ensure they wouldn't unravel. Harness was continuity checked according to schematic drawing to ensure all wiring was correct.

Yes, I made AutoCad drawings for all wiring revisions so the next owner of my car can figure out what circuits are added.

Wiring was reinstalled in car and then tested. Several problems developed but they were found and fixed before the dash was closed up.

Wiring over engine was enclosed in temperature protected sleeving (vinyl-glass) to ensure it didn't deteriorate with age. Routing over engine was spaced off with vinyl clamps somewhat like the OEM clamps (purchased at Ace Hardware). When new starter cable was installed, it was also enclosed in glass sleeving to protect it from header heat. A factory standoff (reproduction) was used before and after the passenger side motor mount to ensure it stayed put.

In the underhood area I used split flex tubing (black) to cover the wire runs and held them in position using OEM straps. For custom areas (like T5 neutral safety and back up lights) I used self adhesive wiring mounting pads (aircraft part). These can be purchased at electronics supply stores. What it is is little square adhesive-backed nylon pads that stick to any clean surface. On the front side there are loops for nylon ties. Route the wire bundle across the top of the pad then lash the nylon around the wire and through the loops on the nylon pads. No body modifications are needed and the little pads hold very securely. Wires don't go anywhere you don't want them to go. These work well and judges never notice how its done, they simply note that your engine compartment wiring looks super neat!

It's been several years now since the restoration and it was well worth the effort...cost was $5 and my time and energy. Cost savings was equal to the cost of new harnesses. It works...just take your time and do it right.

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02-03-2004, 03:19 PM	#1
Jeff65 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 208	Here's what I did to my '65: a. Removed the harnesses. b. Examined each for layout, condition and connectors. Determined what to fix. c. Bought an old harness from a early Falcon to salvage connectors and wire from (couldn't find a Mustang). Paid $5 for the Falcon under dash harness. d. Untaped segments of the wire as needed to repair. Substituted connectors when needed and as they fit to make a good Mustang harness. All bad wiring was cut out and replaced with good wire segments and connectors. Restomod wiring and connectors were included in the reworked harness. Wiring was carefully re-taped. Black heat shrink was used over taped ends to ensure they wouldn't unravel. Harness was continuity checked according to schematic drawing to ensure all wiring was correct. Yes, I made AutoCad drawings for all wiring revisions so the next owner of my car can figure out what circuits are added. Wiring was reinstalled in car and then tested. Several problems developed but they were found and fixed before the dash was closed up. Wiring over engine was enclosed in temperature protected sleeving (vinyl-glass) to ensure it didn't deteriorate with age. Routing over engine was spaced off with vinyl clamps somewhat like the OEM clamps (purchased at Ace Hardware). When new starter cable was installed, it was also enclosed in glass sleeving to protect it from header heat. A factory standoff (reproduction) was used before and after the passenger side motor mount to ensure it stayed put. In the underhood area I used split flex tubing (black) to cover the wire runs and held them in position using OEM straps. For custom areas (like T5 neutral safety and back up lights) I used self adhesive wiring mounting pads (aircraft part). These can be purchased at electronics supply stores. What it is is little square adhesive-backed nylon pads that stick to any clean surface. On the front side there are loops for nylon ties. Route the wire bundle across the top of the pad then lash the nylon around the wire and through the loops on the nylon pads. No body modifications are needed and the little pads hold very securely. Wires don't go anywhere you don't want them to go. These work well and judges never notice how its done, they simply note that your engine compartment wiring looks super neat! It's been several years now since the restoration and it was well worth the effort...cost was $5 and my time and energy. Cost savings was equal to the cost of new harnesses. It works...just take your time and do it right.