After all these mods I run 14.5?!

SlowStang2 · 09-03-2001, 06:44 PM

OK I looked up Killcanary's setup and hes running 12.9s now. He has DRs, custom cam, EEC tuner, and 4.10 gears. These are the only mods I can see that would bring noticeable changes. I am not sure if my 14.5 would drop a second and a half just from compying these though. The reason I am so resistant to getting other parts is just that. I have dropped a lot of money into this car and now I have to drop more money into my car just to wake up the other well paid parts? Well I already did that. Rule number one was get new heads, anything is better than stock, you MUST get new heads! Well here I am and I am a dissatisfied customer. However, I KNOW this thing is faster. For one, I can feel it pull harder throughout gears and two, I can finally chirp 3rd! Never could I do that before. Heh, but my 1st to second shift is still the same type of chirp/peel. Which brings me to a question. If I shift at 5100, I get minimal tire chirpage..if I shift at 4800 I peel out bad HENCE the need for the DRs you guys suggest or even some lower control arms. Now the common sense question is, given the best traction and same power RPM outage, would I want to shift where I have so much power I would peel out? Or do I want to shift a little higher than what my dynoed RPM said was my highest HP point(4750)? I would assume shift where the traction is bad cuz it is obvious that thats where the most power is made(or is it torque?), but I thought shifting a little higher from where you made most HP was appropriate. Lets also not forget that I dynoed my car before heads, so might that change the highest HP RPM point? Now if i had the DRs I would hook up and would not peel out through the shifts and get better times right? BUT as god as my witness I do not want to spend another dollar on another part from an ET improvement when I can just tune what I got and what I do.

As far as getting a cam goes, I have read another post saying that the stock cam is good enough for up to 12 second passes. I am only asking mid 13s. Not too much to ask is it? Let the record reflect that I am going out in a few to G-tech the hell out of my car. I WILL come home with a better time than 14.5!

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)

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09-03-2001, 06:44 PM	#12
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	OK I looked up Killcanary's setup and hes running 12.9s now. He has DRs, custom cam, EEC tuner, and 4.10 gears. These are the only mods I can see that would bring noticeable changes. I am not sure if my 14.5 would drop a second and a half just from compying these though. The reason I am so resistant to getting other parts is just that. I have dropped a lot of money into this car and now I have to drop more money into my car just to wake up the other well paid parts? Well I already did that. Rule number one was get new heads, anything is better than stock, you MUST get new heads! Well here I am and I am a dissatisfied customer. However, I KNOW this thing is faster. For one, I can feel it pull harder throughout gears and two, I can finally chirp 3rd! Never could I do that before. Heh, but my 1st to second shift is still the same type of chirp/peel. Which brings me to a question. If I shift at 5100, I get minimal tire chirpage..if I shift at 4800 I peel out bad HENCE the need for the DRs you guys suggest or even some lower control arms. Now the common sense question is, given the best traction and same power RPM outage, would I want to shift where I have so much power I would peel out? Or do I want to shift a little higher than what my dynoed RPM said was my highest HP point(4750)? I would assume shift where the traction is bad cuz it is obvious that thats where the most power is made(or is it torque?), but I thought shifting a little higher from where you made most HP was appropriate. Lets also not forget that I dynoed my car before heads, so might that change the highest HP RPM point? Now if i had the DRs I would hook up and would not peel out through the shifts and get better times right? BUT as god as my witness I do not want to spend another dollar on another part from an ET improvement when I can just tune what I got and what I do. As far as getting a cam goes, I have read another post saying that the stock cam is good enough for up to 12 second passes. I am only asking mid 13s. Not too much to ask is it? Let the record reflect that I am going out in a few to G-tech the hell out of my car. I WILL come home with a better time than 14.5! ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads)