PKRWUD or anyone with a DMM

PrplMonster · 09-08-2001, 12:12 PM

Ok here we go....

To start, With a DMM set on OHMS i connected one lead to the C Pin at the MAF plug, then checked EVERY pin on the computer plug. Only one wire showed resistance(0.0) Then i checked D, with the same procedure, only one wire showed resistance(0.0)

Again, i checked with a friends computer and still got 5.9vDC. NOW when i connect the MAF plug into the MAF, the voltage practically disappeared, it dropped to .021vDC. WITH the car running C & D read .860(high side) with a little variation.

So everything is connected, taped back up and ready to go, I start it up, she runs beautifully! I then let her run for 5 min idling, shut her off for about 7 min, Fired her back up went to pull out of the driveway, and about stalled it. Under LOAD it pops spits and sputters. When i try to rev it up from under the hood, it has very slow acceleration, and pops and spits.

After hearing this, i ran a KOEO - 85, 11, 11 KOER - 21(ECT) 42(RICH right) 92(RICH left)

Ok, so i replaced the ECT sensor and still get this code(21) I have the heater core tubes plugged right now, so there is no flow past the ECT sensor, but why would it be out of self test range even with a new sensor?

Just for kicks i tried his computer after replacing the ECT sensor and i still get a code 21, 42, 92.

Now this is where it gets weird, well even more than what i am dealing with now.. I left the jumper lead connected and tryed to rev her up, NO POP, NO SPUTTER. take the jumper lead out, pop and sputter come back!

any help...? ....please....

.dave

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09-08-2001, 12:12 PM	#13
PrplMonster Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Posts: 88	Ok here we go.... To start, With a DMM set on OHMS i connected one lead to the C Pin at the MAF plug, then checked EVERY pin on the computer plug. Only one wire showed resistance(0.0) Then i checked D, with the same procedure, only one wire showed resistance(0.0) Again, i checked with a friends computer and still got 5.9vDC. NOW when i connect the MAF plug into the MAF, the voltage practically disappeared, it dropped to .021vDC. WITH the car running C & D read .860(high side) with a little variation. So everything is connected, taped back up and ready to go, I start it up, she runs beautifully! I then let her run for 5 min idling, shut her off for about 7 min, Fired her back up went to pull out of the driveway, and about stalled it. Under LOAD it pops spits and sputters. When i try to rev it up from under the hood, it has very slow acceleration, and pops and spits. After hearing this, i ran a KOEO - 85, 11, 11 KOER - 21(ECT) 42(RICH right) 92(RICH left) Ok, so i replaced the ECT sensor and still get this code(21) I have the heater core tubes plugged right now, so there is no flow past the ECT sensor, but why would it be out of self test range even with a new sensor? Just for kicks i tried his computer after replacing the ECT sensor and i still get a code 21, 42, 92. Now this is where it gets weird, well even more than what i am dealing with now.. I left the jumper lead connected and tryed to rev her up, NO POP, NO SPUTTER. take the jumper lead out, pop and sputter come back! any help...? ....please.... .dave