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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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![]() I'm not sure about the corrosion thing since the carb is aluminum after all BUT after cleaning step number 2, there was white powdery stuff on everything which could have been corroded aluminum. But, being a stubborn SOB, I refuse to write off the avenger since it was my first carb. I will boil and soak and do whatever necessary to clean her out. It was probably fine seeing how my intake probably has an internal leak.
The bolt threads are loc-tited (is that epoxy? Sure doesnt look like it). In all honesty, the screws could hold themselves in without extra help but it seemed like quick and dirty insurance so I dont have little screw heads in the intake. I will de-rtv the carb when putting the intake back on.
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() Pretty sure that JB Weld is gas proof. Soldering the holes closed would probably work well too and could be smoothed off pretty easily. Actual welding might warp the butterflies with the heat and that would cause all kinds of problems.
Rev
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'66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe Last edited by Rev; 10-22-2004 at 08:14 PM.. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 592
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![]() Victory!
Got it! It was the intake. I pulled it and got some good felpro gaskets and RTV'ed like crazy and torqued the intake down to specs.....then I saw that the stupid cork end gaskets had been ejected so I RTV'ed the ends shut and WHAM! It started up! What a difference. I was using 5-6 full turns of all four idle screws to try and get it to idle.... now, I am using 1.5 turns of each of the 2 fronts only and it idles like a charm! It can actually idle lean! The avenger never was able to idle less than med rich. That black smoke mentioned before was actually burning oil from the cylinders I fogged. I know cause there's a pool of grey burnt oil behind the car. I ran it for 30 mins to clear out the cylinders and the exhaust and apart from a header that refuses to accept it's pipe, I'm done. Only one quick question left.... The idle screw. When I had it backed out, it was coughing along at 400 rpms or so and I had to put the screw in to slightly and sudenly hear a hissing sound and it then started to idle regularly. I thought there was supposed to be a small amount of air coming in even with the blades 100% closed....oh well IT RUNS!!! WOOPEE! Thanks to everyone for helping out!
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91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior Last edited by crazypete; 10-25-2004 at 07:27 AM.. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2
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![]() Ok Heres the Thing...Dont Ever use RTV on any Head Surface...Including The Intake Port Runners.....The gaskets you buy should have a coating on em for when they are torqued down and warm up they seal great.....The end Gaskets I get are made of rubber and have lil saddle like tabs that hold them in place
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