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#1 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: manassas, va
Posts: 186
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I just recommend getting it atleast pre-notched until you buy a notcher. Chrome moly is usally alot more expensive than mild steel. Remember no grinding on the welds or bars afterwards. Single pass on the welds. Check out wild rides.
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1983 mustang, 393 cubic inch stroker small block, victor jr heads and intake, gold race 1.6 roller rockers. comp cam 304, 244@ .050. .576" hydralic retro roller cam,lunati rods. block was o-ringed,10:1 forged pistons, speed pro fit fit rings, clevite bearings,msd distributor and igniton,be cool huge radiator, black lite electric fan, march underdrive pulleys, mildon deep sump oil pan, mac 1 3.4" long tube headers, 3" dr gas x-pipe and mac exhaust,ARP bolts. car weighs 2900 lbs w/out driver, sub frames, weld wheels, mickey thompson sportsman pro 26 x 10.5 x 15's,#8 fuel line steel braided |
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#2 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Thanks for the input guys. I was hoping to go with chromoly just for the weight savings aspect. I'm going to check on prices though and see what I can realistically afford. It does sound like a lot of work to do even with the help of my pops. I'm probably going to order one from Competition Engineering...or Jegs, like The Jester recommended...and pay to get it professionally installed. I'm not the most patient person...and that sounds like a headache waiting to happen. Is there any tips or tricks about needing to cut through the floor under the rear seat and attach the cage to the chassis...if you can even call what's underneath a chassis, lol. What I'm asking is does the cage tie into, or weld onto the top/side of the torque boxes? I know this is going to end up costing way more than I originally thought. Decisions...decisions.
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