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#1 |
Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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![]() Well, the motor appears to still be good. I un-hooked the harness and ran the fan directly off of the battery. Although, I swear the fan sounds a little more "gravely" then it use too, but I guess it could be my imagination.
Not sure if any of you have had a chance to see or deal with the DC Controller, but it really seems like a nice quality unit. I really have my doubts that it went bad, but will have to contact the guy that sells them...see what he says. The controller is a vairable unit...so it may only turn on 20 % of the high output....or 100% depending on the climate conditions and demand the system puts on it. I thought the fan motor could still work, but be going bad in a way that the fan put more of a load on the system then it was suppose too. There is always the possiblity that the connecter was not a great connnection....I will never know now that the darn thing is basically melted into one. All other connections are good. The hot and negative to the controller...and the hot and the negative where they leave the controller to go to the fan are all perfectly new looking. Just this one connecter....on the ground wire about 8 inches off the fan's motor melted. Is there a way to test the electric motor with a multidigital meter? Can someone explain how too do this. I borrowed a meter....but have little knowledge of the things. Would checking the motor for Continuity be something? thanks guys, Ryan
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65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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#2 |
Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
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![]() I am still trying to figure out how to use one of those multi digital meters....but have fixed the fan anyhow.
The general thoughts were that this thing had a lose connection. I replaced the connection...verifying it was good and snug...and have had no probs since. I have checked the wire and it does not feel as though it is getting overly warm. To avoid the lose connections in the future, I am going to use a soldering gun and be done with it. thanks guys as always, Ryan
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65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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#3 | |
cranky old man
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Longview Texas
Posts: 683
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![]() Quote:
As far as checking the motor with the meter, you can check continuity, and that might tell you if a winding is open (extremely high resistance), but motor windings normally have almost no resistance, so it will only read 2 or 3 ohms even when everything is good, so unless you're using a good meter and it's reading .0000 ohms, it's gonna be tricky to tell normal motor windings from shorted motor windings. You should be able to tell if the controller is putting out by measuring voltage right at the motor. If you know the controller should be on, then you can put the meter on DC voltage and you should read close to Battery voltage right at the motor. Rod
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Under Construction: 64 Falcon 372 cu in. stroker 1:72 rod ratio 6.250" rods (long rod), Comp Cams XE274 230/236 520/526 @ .050, Scorpion Rollers, Roush 200 irons, 10:1 Keith Blacks, Hedman long tubes, 750 Holley DP, Edelbrock Victor Jr., C4 3500 stall, gears and tires to be anounced. |
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#4 |
Ride Hard
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Wyoming IL
Posts: 1,094
|
![]() nice, now I just got to take a class on how to use one of the multi digital meters...so many choices....
![]() thanks, Ryan
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65 Fastback 91 roller 306, H/C/I AOD-Bauman, PI Stallion, 4.10's and traction loc 04 Grand Cherokee Freedom Edition 79 Ford F-250 4x4 - Restored |
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