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#1 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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Quote:
I researched this topic very heavily last year and asked the opinions of some very smart guys and they all said I would run slower. I then Googled the hell out of results for light weight flywheels and I found an article that totaly made me against doing it. I found a post were a guy built his motor with a lightweight flywheel and was unhappy with his 1/4 mile times. Thinking it may be the lightweight flywheel he reinstalled his stock flywheel and cut a much better 60ft and picked up 2 mph cause the rpms didnt fall so bad betwen shifts.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#2 |
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Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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I'm gonna throw what I've learned at ya, take it for what it's worth.
I'm running a 609 flywheel HP (N/A Baby!!) small block, and my tranny guy told me that I DO NOT have enough horsepower to run a lightweight flywheel! Sure, that killer smallblock you have will spin that sucker up FAST and get you into the next gear Faster than Gen. Grant went through Richmond. The only problem with that is what was stated in this thread already. As SOOOON, and I repeat, as SOON as you hit that clutch pedal, that engine is gonna fall on it's face just as fast as it spun up when it was in gear and you had your foot in the water pump. Like the guys are telling ya, unless it's a 9K high gear race car, stay away from it!!!
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....
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#3 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Moline Il
Posts: 901
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Ok, how many people posting in this thread have actually track and dyno tested aluminum versus steel? How many have just read about it?
After testing out my combinations and my friends, I have probably been involved in testing this theory at least a couple dozen times. Then there was the magazine article written by David Vizard that was originally in MM&FF and has since been republished in PHR, that I was part of. Plus the experimental testing I did for QuarterMaster, I think I'm plenty qualified to speak on this subject. The most important factor is vehicle weight. Supporting factors are horsepower, torque, rpm, tire size, tire material, rear gear ratio, ratios in the trans, and what type of racing you are doing. Theres an infinite number of possibilites of all these factors, and for every combination there is an ideal clutch/flywheel weight. However, of the couple dozen combinations I have been a part of testing, not one of them ran slower with an aluminum flywheel. We have tested Mustangs that weigh 3000 to 3330lbs, blown, n/a, rear gears from 3.73 to 5.13, RWHP from 320 to 650, 2.92, 3.27, and 3.35 first gears, slicks and drag radials: They all ran faster with an aluminum flywheel. And they could have all gone faster if we had the time and money to to find the ideal weight for the clutch/flywheel combo. There is definately a point where they will get too light. Andy
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88 coupe 91 LX NMRA Pure Street 5120 |
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#4 | |
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Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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Quote:
OK, so I'm going to interpret this as I was only half correct. Possibly for MY combination, Walt is telling me to stay with steel, NOT "stay with steel" in general? I know ALOT of guys running aluminum wheels, and having great sucess with them! Did that make sense? LOL
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....
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