SUSPENSION, SUSPENSION, SUSPENSION . PLEASE HELP!

Rick 91GT · 02-03-2001, 07:18 AM

If you want to do a good amount of drag racing here is what I have and would suggest it. I have the SSM lowers, which ae fine but get under the car and grease them every week or so, this will keep them from binding and will keep them from making noise. You have to weld the plates to the axle, this will cause you to have a set pinion angle, you will pick the pinion angle and then weld the plates in, the directions are really good. The only way to adjust pinion angle is if you have ADJUSTABLE UPPERS the SSM upper are not. I would get a set of Steeda or Metco adjustable uppers. I have my pinion angle set at 5 degrees which is the max recommended for the street, any higher should be track only. Get 70/30's for the front, the 90/10 should be for high horspower, or heavy cars only they keep the front end up to long and do not settle as quick this will hurt wind resistance. I would also get the 50/50's for the back. The more expensive way to go is get a set of adjustable shocks and struts, HAL makes awsome products all aluminuim bodies etc.. but thet are very expensive compared to the Lakewwod 70/30, 50/50, but the HALS would give you the best of both world you could loosen them up for the track and keep them stiff on the street if you want to corner. The Lakewoods are fine on the street and cause me no problems. Now for springs, I like my Eibach drag launch kit, it has worked well with the rest of my suspension some feel the 4cyl springs work just as well. I picked up .40 seconds in the 1/4 mile when I went with the struts, shocks, and springs. The whole set-up ride fine on thestreet buty when combined with my skiinies up front I don't corner hard so I can tell you how that is. You could also pul of the front sway bar, this will allow the front suspension to move more but the car will have more body roll in the corners, it also saves 25-30lbs. As for subframes the KB units are good but I have the Steeda Chrome-moly units, they can be welded or bolted in. Also weld your torque boxes in if you go with the SSM lowers it may save you some hassle in the long run, if you are intrested in a set of re-enforcements like the battle boxes drop me aline, I make a set that has a different design to give more support and they arte made from Stainless-Steel so they will nevr rust, and they are stronger.

Just my .02 on a drag set-up that has worked great for me

Rick
Rick91GT@onemain.com

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

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02-03-2001, 07:18 AM	#12
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	If you want to do a good amount of drag racing here is what I have and would suggest it. I have the SSM lowers, which ae fine but get under the car and grease them every week or so, this will keep them from binding and will keep them from making noise. You have to weld the plates to the axle, this will cause you to have a set pinion angle, you will pick the pinion angle and then weld the plates in, the directions are really good. The only way to adjust pinion angle is if you have ADJUSTABLE UPPERS the SSM upper are not. I would get a set of Steeda or Metco adjustable uppers. I have my pinion angle set at 5 degrees which is the max recommended for the street, any higher should be track only. Get 70/30's for the front, the 90/10 should be for high horspower, or heavy cars only they keep the front end up to long and do not settle as quick this will hurt wind resistance. I would also get the 50/50's for the back. The more expensive way to go is get a set of adjustable shocks and struts, HAL makes awsome products all aluminuim bodies etc.. but thet are very expensive compared to the Lakewwod 70/30, 50/50, but the HALS would give you the best of both world you could loosen them up for the track and keep them stiff on the street if you want to corner. The Lakewoods are fine on the street and cause me no problems. Now for springs, I like my Eibach drag launch kit, it has worked well with the rest of my suspension some feel the 4cyl springs work just as well. I picked up .40 seconds in the 1/4 mile when I went with the struts, shocks, and springs. The whole set-up ride fine on thestreet buty when combined with my skiinies up front I don't corner hard so I can tell you how that is. You could also pul of the front sway bar, this will allow the front suspension to move more but the car will have more body roll in the corners, it also saves 25-30lbs. As for subframes the KB units are good but I have the Steeda Chrome-moly units, they can be welded or bolted in. Also weld your torque boxes in if you go with the SSM lowers it may save you some hassle in the long run, if you are intrested in a set of re-enforcements like the battle boxes drop me aline, I make a set that has a different design to give more support and they arte made from Stainless-Steel so they will nevr rust, and they are stronger. Just my .02 on a drag set-up that has worked great for me Rick Rick91GT@onemain.com ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98