Steeda G-Trac Stage 1

Skankin · 04-02-2001, 10:56 PM

I've heard bad things about the rear sway bar (used in addition to the stock sway bar).

It just causes more bind so that the rear skids out (oversteer) a lot sooner. So it actually removes grip, rather than adding it. For an experienced driver, the oversteer can improve lap times, but it's generally not a good thing.

cc plates are a good idea. I'd suggest a stronger 4 bolt design though (in case you wanna upgrade to coil-overs). The free articulation (of the spherical bushing) is nice, and the added caster gives you some more feel (and you don't loose as much camber in the corner).

With a factory k-member, most people will agree that a lower chassis brace is more important than the strut brace.

I wouldn't drop it anymore than 1" with the springs alone. The angle of the lower control arm would just lower the front roll centre too much (far more than the centre of mass). You'd need some heavy springs to keep the front heavy beast from rolling.

If you don't have subframe connectors, I highly recommend them (especially on the vert)... it'll transition A LOT nicer. Just make sure you check the regulations though... the SFC's can bump you up to a more competitive class (which probably wouldn't be as fun).

Steeda's offset front lower control arm bushings will add some caster, and the stiffer material will help maintain alignment (in corners). With the lower chassis brace, the turn-in response will be noticably improved.

Get a good alignment (as much caster as possible), 1/16" toe-in, and about -1 deg camber. The cc plates will allow you to add a little more (negative) at the track... but anymore on the highway, and you'll start wearing the inside of your tires.

Maximum motorsports offers some great value, and Kenny brown has some decent products too.

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04-02-2001, 10:56 PM	#4
Skankin Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,349	I've heard bad things about the rear sway bar (used in addition to the stock sway bar). It just causes more bind so that the rear skids out (oversteer) a lot sooner. So it actually removes grip, rather than adding it. For an experienced driver, the oversteer can improve lap times, but it's generally not a good thing. cc plates are a good idea. I'd suggest a stronger 4 bolt design though (in case you wanna upgrade to coil-overs). The free articulation (of the spherical bushing) is nice, and the added caster gives you some more feel (and you don't loose as much camber in the corner). With a factory k-member, most people will agree that a lower chassis brace is more important than the strut brace. I wouldn't drop it anymore than 1" with the springs alone. The angle of the lower control arm would just lower the front roll centre too much (far more than the centre of mass). You'd need some heavy springs to keep the front heavy beast from rolling. If you don't have subframe connectors, I highly recommend them (especially on the vert)... it'll transition A LOT nicer. Just make sure you check the regulations though... the SFC's can bump you up to a more competitive class (which probably wouldn't be as fun). Steeda's offset front lower control arm bushings will add some caster, and the stiffer material will help maintain alignment (in corners). With the lower chassis brace, the turn-in response will be noticably improved. Get a good alignment (as much caster as possible), 1/16" toe-in, and about -1 deg camber. The cc plates will allow you to add a little more (negative) at the track... but anymore on the highway, and you'll start wearing the inside of your tires. Maximum motorsports offers some great value, and Kenny brown has some decent products too.