Selling my car, need detailing tips...

Mr 5 0 · 05-28-2000, 01:51 PM

tra9379:

My LX is 10 years old, never garaged, driven almost daily and it still gets double takes and favorable comments on it's appearance from folks. It's on Users Rides.

The secret is to never let the paint, trim, interior or engine get so far gone that you can't 'bring it back'.

That said; Each spring, I (now) use a clay bar, then Zymol polish/wax on the finish.
I use Mothers 'Back to Black' for all the black rubber trim, tires and even the plastic gas tank covering (it shows from behind and is a detailing item, in my book).
I use 0000 grade steel wool on the LX exhaust tips. Use an old paintbrush to clean the crud from the door jambs (polish).

Interior gets Blue Coral shampoo and Armor All plastic cleaner, then the Back to Black on all interior plastic, including the hatch cover, tailight tops, etc. Do everything.

Engine is cleaned with 'Simple Green' (professional grade-hard to get) and a car-wash hose. Cover all electrical connections: alternator, distributor, etc and avoid direct spray where you don't need it. I hit the front of the heads and most of the lower part of the engine and engine bay. Then it's detail!
I use fine steel wool and metal polish on the plain metal parts, and regular auto polish on the intake and valve covers.
I use Armor All on the plug wires and black plastic parts. A toothbrush is a big help here. Yes, it's tedious but very rewarding when you open your hood, even on a mostly stock engine like mine. Trust me on this.
I recommend a new hood insulation pad if yours is ratty and dirty. I got a new one from Mustangs Unlimited for $72. last year.
Installs in 10 minutes (no tools needed) and makes a nice difference under the hood.

I did have a detailer friend give my Mustang a professional polish/buffing 2 years ago and it paid off, although he said my clearcoat is pretty thin at this point.
He taped all the non-metal parts on the body and did a beautiful job, well worth what I paid him ($100.).

The Bottom Line is: detail.
Clean and polish all the little parts as well as the obvious stuff. Don't overlook anything, as R. Weir suggested, and your 'Stang will look great when you're finished. Good Luck to you.

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05-28-2000, 01:51 PM	#7
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	tra9379: My LX is 10 years old, never garaged, driven almost daily and it still gets double takes and favorable comments on it's appearance from folks. It's on Users Rides. The secret is to never let the paint, trim, interior or engine get so far gone that you can't 'bring it back'. That said; Each spring, I (now) use a clay bar, then Zymol polish/wax on the finish. I use Mothers 'Back to Black' for all the black rubber trim, tires and even the plastic gas tank covering (it shows from behind and is a detailing item, in my book). I use 0000 grade steel wool on the LX exhaust tips. Use an old paintbrush to clean the crud from the door jambs (polish). Interior gets Blue Coral shampoo and Armor All plastic cleaner, then the Back to Black on all interior plastic, including the hatch cover, tailight tops, etc. Do everything. Engine is cleaned with 'Simple Green' (professional grade-hard to get) and a car-wash hose. Cover all electrical connections: alternator, distributor, etc and avoid direct spray where you don't need it. I hit the front of the heads and most of the lower part of the engine and engine bay. Then it's detail! I use fine steel wool and metal polish on the plain metal parts, and regular auto polish on the intake and valve covers. I use Armor All on the plug wires and black plastic parts. A toothbrush is a big help here. Yes, it's tedious but very rewarding when you open your hood, even on a mostly stock engine like mine. Trust me on this. I recommend a new hood insulation pad if yours is ratty and dirty. I got a new one from Mustangs Unlimited for $72. last year. Installs in 10 minutes (no tools needed) and makes a nice difference under the hood. I did have a detailer friend give my Mustang a professional polish/buffing 2 years ago and it paid off, although he said my clearcoat is pretty thin at this point. He taped all the non-metal parts on the body and did a beautiful job, well worth what I paid him ($100.). The Bottom Line is: detail. Clean and polish all the little parts as well as the obvious stuff. Don't overlook anything, as R. Weir suggested, and your 'Stang will look great when you're finished. Good Luck to you.