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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21
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![]() Hey everyone!
I need some assistance on this issue i keep encountering. PROBLEM: Idle problems, such as surging or stumbling. Basically in morning i start my car and it runs fine. If i turn it off for a while, like go into a store or something, more than 5 minutes it starts tripping HARD. I turn the car on, idling is not steady as though it wants to cut off. I rev engine and it is hesitating or bogging. I turn car off AGAIN and restart, let it run for a minute or so and the problem clears up and drives fine. SECOND ISSUE: when it is driving "normal" after about 5 minutes or so i suddenly loose COMPLETE power. My RPM are dropping drastically. I press on gas pedal for more gas but nothing. When my foot is on the accelerator nothing happens but when i am releasing my foot off it, that's when the power is trying to kick in and starts surging. At this time i am just cruising down the street with no power. I pull off the road and come to a stop BUT before i can stop the car cuts off. What the heck is up with this 50????? ![]() ![]() I cant pass smog because no good reading. It kept aborting the test. So i couldn't even get a list of reasons why it wouldn't pass. I was told, "oh its your tranny, no its your rear end, oh no its definitely your cat converters that are bad." SOOOOOO i rebuilt the tranny, put an H-pipe with cats, upgraded rear end to 4:10 w/posi, replaced the throttle air valve, replaced the TPS, replaced the o2 sensors, replaced ignition wires to ford racing 9mm, replaced distributor cap and rotor, use fully synthetic oil, K&N air filter and K&N oil filter. All these things i have done has helped improved my speed and sound BUT none of them resolved this jerking/bogging/stumbling/surging problem that i have been facing for the last year!!!!!! ![]() SO i am willing to take any suggestions and try something else. ![]() Do anybody know if adjusting the idling setting on he throttel body will help? Any assistance is greatly appreicated!!!! ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Staging lane
Posts: 4,337
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![]() When you replaced your TPS sensor what did you set the voltage at? It sounds like your TPS is out of whack to me.
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92' LX-Big brakes, Lots and lots of suspension, GT40X heads, Ported cobra intake, stock cam, Vortech SC trim. 00' Lightning-Stock 88'CRX-13 second ego killer |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21
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![]() I set it at .98
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#4 | |
cranky old man
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Longview Texas
Posts: 683
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![]() Quote:
Beyond that, whoever told you a poor idle problem was caused by the tranny or the rear end, has a friend or relative who rebuilds trannys or rear ends ! They need their ass whooped !! That last thing is of course a joke (violence is a tool of the ignorant ![]() Rod
__________________
Under Construction: 64 Falcon 372 cu in. stroker 1:72 rod ratio 6.250" rods (long rod), Comp Cams XE274 230/236 520/526 @ .050, Scorpion Rollers, Roush 200 irons, 10:1 Keith Blacks, Hedman long tubes, 750 Holley DP, Edelbrock Victor Jr., C4 3500 stall, gears and tires to be anounced. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21
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![]() HA HA HA HA!
Okay, I will try that and see what happens. My tranny was already shot so i knew that wasn't it. As for the rear end, yeah I laughed at that as well. Sometimes these shops just say stuff out the side of their necks becuase they dont know. How hard is it to say "honestly i dont know!" I'll try and let ya know! ![]() thanks! |
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#6 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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![]() this may be useful.
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/idlereset.html
__________________
1990 GT,stock T-5,K&N w/o air silencer,March underdrives,FMS wires,timing@14*,PA Perf 130amp alt,Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter,Steeda adj quadrant/clutch cable/firewall adj,Centerforce II clutch,o/r x-pipe,Magnaflow SS catback,g-load brace, subframes,Bilstein struts/shocks,Autometer gauges, 136k and running strong! |
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#7 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 69
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![]() Quote:
After cleaning, checking, cleaning and checking again, I ended up replacing the IAB and the MAF and adjusted the TPS. Still no luck…..depending on where the idle screw was adjusted, the idle would either hang (screw turned in more) or the idle would stumble and want to stall (screw turned out more.) So I tried a different approach; first I adjusted the idle as indicated in my Chilton’s service manual. With this setting, the idle was perfect except it would hang for about 5 or 6 seconds before settling in. Then over the next week, everyday, before driving the car, I would turn the idle screw outward about 1/8 turn. Eventually, after about 4 or 5 days of closing the throttle plate 1/8 turn at a time and driving the car, the idle found its niche. Now, my engine idles well, no stumble and no hanging idle problem. As for your second problem; my car did the same thing on two different occasions. The first time, it was the ignition coil. It would run fine until it warmed up and then the engine would just die. I guess the heat was causing the coil to build internal resistance to the point where it wouldn’t produce enough voltage to fire the plugs. Second time it was my fuel pump. Same thing except more random. I could drive all day and the engine would die one block away from my house. Sometimes it would die while backing out of the driveway and then, on some days, it would run fine without cutting out at all. Drove me f’in nuts! I don’t think I actually figured out the problem. One day I just decided to install a new fuel pump, and luckily, it corrected the stalling problem. Good luck, Phil |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21
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![]() Thanks for the info.
I plan on adjusting the idle today and for the next week will see which level it rides fine on. Also i replaced my fuel pump as i had initially thought that was the reason since it seemed as though when driving it wasn't getting enough gas. I am on a mission to find out the problem. So thanks for the information. Will see what happens! Thanks Phil! ![]() Sierra |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Rochester
Posts: 323
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![]() this may sound dumb, but what temp t-stat are you running. If you're running too cool of a temp it won't let the computer get into closed loop and would cause the samr problems. I know because I tried to run a 160 t-stat and had the same problems.
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95 GT convertable, ported+polished GT40 heads, port matched upper and lower Cobra intake manifold, Flowthech headers, Catco hi-flow h-pipe with 2 hi-flow cats, Mac true fit catback exhaust, 3.73 gears, underdrive pullies, Edelbrock 70mm throttle body, Mac cold air intake, FMS 24lb injectors, Granatelli 75mm mass air |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21
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![]() I am not sure. I believe i have a stock Temp, possibly 195???
I will have to check......... |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 21
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![]() ![]() After i changed TPS, IAB and almost changed the EGR i cleaned the MAF and it cleared right up. Man I am so happy that problem is OVER!!!!! |
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