Need help with my AOD build up

tireburner163 · 12-22-2001, 01:29 AM

Ok I've got a 1984 AOD that I got out of a 1984 LTD. I'm gonna rebuild it and put it in my car after the 302 swap. I know this is not the most desirable AOD to have, but i got a screaming deal on it. I'm gonna rebuild it with a "A" over drive servo, HO clutches, a stall converter, and a tranny cooler, and a Trans_go shift kit.

What is a good company that sells AOD converters(I know stallion converters rock, but they are out of my bugget). Should I upgrade to a 2" OD band? I think I heard somewhere that 88 (or maybe it was 90) models had better valve bodies, is this true?

Do you guys have any other tips for me?

Josh, aka the tireburner

macx · 12-22-2001, 07:01 PM

I've got a good indepth write-up of building up
the various AOD models. Send me your email, to
macx@eoni.com. If you know the right parts and which models they come in, you can build a very stout AOD with mostly later model stock parts.

Capri306 · 12-24-2001, 12:08 AM

Check out Baumann Engineering. They have a TON of info online for free, and helped me to build my AOD that has stood up to 7 months of street racing, highway driving, city traffic, brake stands, you name it. You listed some of the most important things though, including a tranny cooler (get the BIGGEST one you can fit!) and a shift kit, but you forgot a VERY important piece to making an AOD live: that stupid little nylon grommet on the throttle body needs to be replaced!!! I tell ya, that thing fries more AOD's than you'd believe. The reason is that TV pressure is dictated by the TV cable (makes sense, huh?), and if the grommet is loose, TV pressure will be lower than it's supposed to be, therefore resulting in sloppy, nasty, slushy, heat-producing shifts.

On the subject of converters, STAY AWAY FROM TCI. They're the reason I had to rebuild my AOD. Know what happened? The splines stripped out of the converter!!! The input shaft (the larger one) wasn't hurt at all, making me believe that the TCI is made of basically pot metal. One night I was making a normal right turn, and I heard a *POP!* and she would move no more. I thought I broke an axle or dropped my driveshaft, but after hearing a buzzing/whirring sound from the rear engine area, I knew something in the tranny was up. I didn't find out the torque converter splines were bad until I had the whole thing reassembled and back in, only to find it did the same thing. After more careful inspection, I found the problem. I talked with about 3 or 4 transmission service guys, and none of them had ever seen anything like it before. "Guess you got a bad one," was the most common remark. BS, I've been burned by TCI before; I installed a TransCat kit into a C4 years before, and it NEVER worked correctly. I removed it, installed a B&M kit, and never had any more problems.

Wouldn't worry too much about the 2" OD band, I found out the hard way it's an expensive conversion. If a PI converter is out of the budget, you're going to have to drop this as well. You will love the A servo, and besides, it's only used in OD, so it doesn't need to hold all THAT much power, right?

Mach 1 · 12-24-2001, 12:21 PM

you dropped the tranny, inspected it, overhauled it, etc...and reinstalled without looking at the splines? ooops.....

Nitrous Al · 12-24-2001, 12:28 PM

Is this your first time building a transmission? You might want to let a professional do the work for you.

Capri306 · 12-25-2001, 04:30 PM

Mach: Yeah, really, oops!!! Heck, the male end of the splined shaft looked absolutely fine, and I mean NO damage whatsoever. It never dawned on me to check out the splines INSIDE the converter; I mean, this kind of thing is so rare that I really didn't mind all what happened. I was just thankful that I found the problem, and it was simple as buying a new converter. WHEW! Oh, also, the splines were only stripped by the end, not all the way down, so to my eyes, everything looked okay at first....then I started probing around with a set of snap ring pliers to the stator. Live and learn, eh?

Mach 1 · 12-25-2001, 04:40 PM

yeah, I guess that was a tricky one. I assumed the male splines were gone to and u overlooked it. Its just a pain in the *** dropping an AOD. I want a lift for my garage...hey , its christmas, are u listening Santa?

12-22-2001, 01:29 AM	#1
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	Need help with my AOD build up Ok I've got a 1984 AOD that I got out of a 1984 LTD. I'm gonna rebuild it and put it in my car after the 302 swap. I know this is not the most desirable AOD to have, but i got a screaming deal on it. I'm gonna rebuild it with a "A" over drive servo, HO clutches, a stall converter, and a tranny cooler, and a Trans_go shift kit. What is a good company that sells AOD converters(I know stallion converters rock, but they are out of my bugget). Should I upgrade to a 2" OD band? I think I heard somewhere that 88 (or maybe it was 90) models had better valve bodies, is this true? Do you guys have any other tips for me? Josh, aka the tireburner __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

12-22-2001, 07:01 PM	#2
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	AOD info I've got a good indepth write-up of building up the various AOD models. Send me your email, to macx@eoni.com. If you know the right parts and which models they come in, you can build a very stout AOD with mostly later model stock parts.

12-24-2001, 12:08 AM	#3
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	Check out Baumann Engineering. They have a TON of info online for free, and helped me to build my AOD that has stood up to 7 months of street racing, highway driving, city traffic, brake stands, you name it. You listed some of the most important things though, including a tranny cooler (get the BIGGEST one you can fit!) and a shift kit, but you forgot a VERY important piece to making an AOD live: that stupid little nylon grommet on the throttle body needs to be replaced!!! I tell ya, that thing fries more AOD's than you'd believe. The reason is that TV pressure is dictated by the TV cable (makes sense, huh?), and if the grommet is loose, TV pressure will be lower than it's supposed to be, therefore resulting in sloppy, nasty, slushy, heat-producing shifts. On the subject of converters, STAY AWAY FROM TCI. They're the reason I had to rebuild my AOD. Know what happened? The splines stripped out of the converter!!! The input shaft (the larger one) wasn't hurt at all, making me believe that the TCI is made of basically pot metal. One night I was making a normal right turn, and I heard a POP! and she would move no more. I thought I broke an axle or dropped my driveshaft, but after hearing a buzzing/whirring sound from the rear engine area, I knew something in the tranny was up. I didn't find out the torque converter splines were bad until I had the whole thing reassembled and back in, only to find it did the same thing. After more careful inspection, I found the problem. I talked with about 3 or 4 transmission service guys, and none of them had ever seen anything like it before. "Guess you got a bad one," was the most common remark. BS, I've been burned by TCI before; I installed a TransCat kit into a C4 years before, and it NEVER worked correctly. I removed it, installed a B&M kit, and never had any more problems. Wouldn't worry too much about the 2" OD band, I found out the hard way it's an expensive conversion. If a PI converter is out of the budget, you're going to have to drop this as well. You will love the A servo, and besides, it's only used in OD, so it doesn't need to hold all THAT much power, right? __________________ Capri306, Moderator The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri 1987 5.0L Mustang LX Notchback 1993 5.8L Eddie Bauer Bronco

12-24-2001, 12:21 PM	#4
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	you dropped the tranny, inspected it, overhauled it, etc...and reinstalled without looking at the splines? ooops..... __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

12-24-2001, 12:28 PM	#5
Nitrous Al Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Everett, MA Posts: 417	Is this your first time building a transmission? You might want to let a professional do the work for you. __________________ Nitrous Al

12-25-2001, 04:30 PM	#6
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	Mach: Yeah, really, oops!!! Heck, the male end of the splined shaft looked absolutely fine, and I mean NO damage whatsoever. It never dawned on me to check out the splines INSIDE the converter; I mean, this kind of thing is so rare that I really didn't mind all what happened. I was just thankful that I found the problem, and it was simple as buying a new converter. WHEW! Oh, also, the splines were only stripped by the end, not all the way down, so to my eyes, everything looked okay at first....then I started probing around with a set of snap ring pliers to the stator. Live and learn, eh? __________________ Capri306, Moderator The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri 1987 5.0L Mustang LX Notchback 1993 5.8L Eddie Bauer Bronco

12-25-2001, 04:40 PM	#7
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	yeah, I guess that was a tricky one. I assumed the male splines were gone to and u overlooked it. Its just a pain in the *** dropping an AOD. I want a lift for my garage...hey , its christmas, are u listening Santa? __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

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