Just out of curiosity(sic)...............

William Bowers · 02-14-2002, 06:15 PM

.............I can't afford them now but I would like to know. When it comes to heads. What is the best bang for the buck? I prefer steel heads to aluminum. But evenwhen you narrow it down to that ther are still so many choices..........1.90 or 2.02?............What sizecombustion chamber is stock on mustang? One can only assume that a larger combustion chamber will lower compression and thus lower power. What about the new roush heads? The 180 or the 200? are Gt40 heads worth the expense since they seem to provide30-40% less power than the top of the line heads? Can a good set of (new) steel heads be had for around $750?

Unit 5302 · 02-14-2002, 09:49 PM

The GT40P heads do not provide 30-40% less power than other iron heads, or even aluminums for that matter. I have no idea where you got that info. About 15% less flow than the Windsor Sr's out of the box. Whoopee. There are GT40 headed cars making only 20-30hp less than really good alumium headed cars.

320hp is no problem.

William Bowers · 02-14-2002, 10:56 PM

I guess it was more of an inference rather than someone actually telling me so.Like I have said before all my racing tuning experience is with bikes.I do not find pushrod engines at all baffling but my experience with things not having dual overhead cams is limited.Most of our heads flow really well stock, and usually mild porting and oversize valves are all that are needed for optimum performance.Bike cylinder head design is not nearly so restrictive or limiting as the stock heads of our poor little mustangs. I guess that the super competitive bike market forces the manufacturers to turn out good heads stock, while car manufactures stagnate and wallow in their own feces.

1BAD89 · 02-14-2002, 11:43 PM

Quote:

I prefer steel heads to aluminum.

WHY, WHY, WHY? They are only like $200-300 cheaper than aluminum heads. Aluminum, Aluminum, Aluminum is the way to go my friend, less weight, more power.

William Bowers · 02-15-2002, 09:36 AM

The reason is that I don't want someone to notice immediatly that I have different heads(close to stock appearing )and also because (although I have never used them on a car) my father is from the old school when they always had lots of problems with aluminum heads and all my life all I've ever heard is that they are problems.Hard to get over it when you've had it ground into you so long.

BLWN327 · 02-15-2002, 09:44 AM

go with aluminums you wont regret it,my dad was the same way http://hapygas.stangnet.com

1BAD89 · 02-15-2002, 10:02 AM

When aluminum heads first came out, I'm sure there were some problems, but NOT ANYMORE! You'll make more power, and save quite a bit of weight. You can paint them to match your stock heads too! You don't think people are going to notice the ROUSH on the side of heads if you decided to go with those? This is my opinion Aluminum heads are the ONLY way to go, and probaly 99% of people think that, don't go old school and spend the same money, make less power, and have more weight. I know it's hard to go against something you've been brought up around your whole life, but take everyones advice, we are only here to help.

avbcon12 · 02-15-2002, 10:09 AM

for what its worth, i have the same mind set about aluminum heads on a street driven car. i didnt want to get them because they are more or less a 50,000 mile head. opposed to a cast iron that are more of a 100,000 mile head.

i went with the GT-40 irons because they would last on my application. it wont see much of a track and i didnt feel like tearing down the engine anytime soon (no money).

i also have worked at a metal fab shop for years now and knowing as much as i do about the different characteristics about metals (ie aluminum and iron) i couldnt see mating the 2 metals on a performance motor. the expansion a contraction rates of the 2 metals when heated are way way different. so i didnt want to deal with warping....

well i hope i at least helped a little. it comes down to knowing what the mustang is going to be used for. if its a daily driver or mostly street driven car then go iron if you dont want to hassle with it. if its a strip car every month then go aluminum.

take care,
adam

1BAD89 · 02-15-2002, 10:14 AM

1000's of street driven mustangs have aluminum heads, they are reliable, UNIT, PCKRWOOD, Mach 1, SaleenGTS, SKYman, etc...and everyone else I missed, chime in and set this boy straight.

302 LX Eric · 02-15-2002, 10:29 AM

I've got TFS TW aluminum heads on my Stang with no problems whatsoever. And I picked up the most HP and TQ than any other mod I've ever done. (Even with the 2.02/1.60 valves and 65 cc cambers!)

Thousands of people have aluminum heads without any problems at all.

Bennett, Keith Craft, Coast, DSS, etc., all use aluminum heads on their race motors. In fact, Bennett just released a new head for SB Fords that is all ALUMINUM.

Go with a nice set of TFS, AFR, Edelbrock's or whatever and you will be happy.

E

Five0 · 02-15-2002, 11:09 AM

I run aluminum canfield heads for almost 2 years now and I have had no problems yet.
I would only run a iron head if you are getting a great deal on them. The iron heads will build a little more power but the difference in weight will offset the little difference in power you will gain and if you have a little more power in the front of the car and more weight, what do you think that is going to do for your traction. You can also run more timing in an aluminum headed car and have less chance of detonation and possible engine damage.

And also you can repair an aluminum head pretty cheap.

When I blew up my 302 and messed up 1 of my heads (a valve met a piston and put a hole in the bottom of the head) it only cost me 300 dollars to have it fixed and I had them ported at the same time so he just gave me 300 dollars off the price of porting them. If you look at where the damage was you cannot even tell it was ever damaged. If you mess up an iron head you might as well buy a new one.

Both heads have advantages and disadvantages but the advantages of an aluminum far out weigh the advantages of an iron head. JMO

avbcon12 · 02-15-2002, 11:44 AM

hi guys,

im not saying that people dont run them without problems. i know many people that have run them without any. so you dont have to "set me straight".

i just brought up another oppinion that i have experienced with at my work...

for my daily driven summer mustang i dont really need the weight reduction or anything. thats why i stated it all depends on what your plans are for the car.....

thanks,
adam

02-14-2002, 06:15 PM	#1
William Bowers Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: LEXINGTON S.C. Posts: 30	Just out of curiosity(sic)............... .............I can't afford them now but I would like to know. When it comes to heads. What is the best bang for the buck? I prefer steel heads to aluminum. But evenwhen you narrow it down to that ther are still so many choices..........1.90 or 2.02?............What sizecombustion chamber is stock on mustang? One can only assume that a larger combustion chamber will lower compression and thus lower power. What about the new roush heads? The 180 or the 200? are Gt40 heads worth the expense since they seem to provide30-40% less power than the top of the line heads? Can a good set of (new) steel heads be had for around $750?

02-15-2002, 09:44 AM	#6
BLWN327 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: fair haven,mi,u.s. Posts: 34	go with aluminums you wont regret it,my dad was the same way http://hapygas.stangnet.com __________________ BLWN327 My Web Site 1994 Mustang GT - All forged 327 stroker from CCM,check out the extensive list of mods here

02-15-2002, 10:02 AM	#7
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	When aluminum heads first came out, I'm sure there were some problems, but NOT ANYMORE! You'll make more power, and save quite a bit of weight. You can paint them to match your stock heads too! You don't think people are going to notice the ROUSH on the side of heads if you decided to go with those? This is my opinion Aluminum heads are the ONLY way to go, and probaly 99% of people think that, don't go old school and spend the same money, make less power, and have more weight. I know it's hard to go against something you've been brought up around your whole life, but take everyones advice, we are only here to help. Last edited by 1BAD89; 02-15-2002 at 10:12 AM..

02-15-2002, 10:09 AM	#8
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	for what its worth, i have the same mind set about aluminum heads on a street driven car. i didnt want to get them because they are more or less a 50,000 mile head. opposed to a cast iron that are more of a 100,000 mile head. i went with the GT-40 irons because they would last on my application. it wont see much of a track and i didnt feel like tearing down the engine anytime soon (no money). i also have worked at a metal fab shop for years now and knowing as much as i do about the different characteristics about metals (ie aluminum and iron) i couldnt see mating the 2 metals on a performance motor. the expansion a contraction rates of the 2 metals when heated are way way different. so i didnt want to deal with warping.... well i hope i at least helped a little. it comes down to knowing what the mustang is going to be used for. if its a daily driver or mostly street driven car then go iron if you dont want to hassle with it. if its a strip car every month then go aluminum. take care, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com

02-15-2002, 10:29 AM	#10
302 LX Eric or '331 LX Eric' Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,142	I've got TFS TW aluminum heads on my Stang with no problems whatsoever. And I picked up the most HP and TQ than any other mod I've ever done. (Even with the 2.02/1.60 valves and 65 cc cambers!) Thousands of people have aluminum heads without any problems at all. Bennett, Keith Craft, Coast, DSS, etc., all use aluminum heads on their race motors. In fact, Bennett just released a new head for SB Fords that is all ALUMINUM. Go with a nice set of TFS, AFR, Edelbrock's or whatever and you will be happy. E __________________ 1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60'

02-14-2002, 09:49 PM	#2
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	The GT40P heads do not provide 30-40% less power than other iron heads, or even aluminums for that matter. I have no idea where you got that info. About 15% less flow than the Windsor Sr's out of the box. Whoopee. There are GT40 headed cars making only 20-30hp less than really good alumium headed cars. 320hp is no problem.

02-14-2002, 10:56 PM	#3
William Bowers Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: LEXINGTON S.C. Posts: 30	I guess it was more of an inference rather than someone actually telling me so.Like I have said before all my racing tuning experience is with bikes.I do not find pushrod engines at all baffling but my experience with things not having dual overhead cams is limited.Most of our heads flow really well stock, and usually mild porting and oversize valves are all that are needed for optimum performance.Bike cylinder head design is not nearly so restrictive or limiting as the stock heads of our poor little mustangs. I guess that the super competitive bike market forces the manufacturers to turn out good heads stock, while car manufactures stagnate and wallow in their own feces.

02-15-2002, 09:36 AM	#5
William Bowers Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: LEXINGTON S.C. Posts: 30	The reason is that I don't want someone to notice immediatly that I have different heads(close to stock appearing )and also because (although I have never used them on a car) my father is from the old school when they always had lots of problems with aluminum heads and all my life all I've ever heard is that they are problems.Hard to get over it when you've had it ground into you so long.

02-15-2002, 10:14 AM	#9
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	1000's of street driven mustangs have aluminum heads, they are reliable, UNIT, PCKRWOOD, Mach 1, SaleenGTS, SKYman, etc...and everyone else I missed, chime in and set this boy straight.

02-15-2002, 11:09 AM	#11
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	I run aluminum canfield heads for almost 2 years now and I have had no problems yet. I would only run a iron head if you are getting a great deal on them. The iron heads will build a little more power but the difference in weight will offset the little difference in power you will gain and if you have a little more power in the front of the car and more weight, what do you think that is going to do for your traction. You can also run more timing in an aluminum headed car and have less chance of detonation and possible engine damage. And also you can repair an aluminum head pretty cheap. When I blew up my 302 and messed up 1 of my heads (a valve met a piston and put a hole in the bottom of the head) it only cost me 300 dollars to have it fixed and I had them ported at the same time so he just gave me 300 dollars off the price of porting them. If you look at where the damage was you cannot even tell it was ever damaged. If you mess up an iron head you might as well buy a new one. Both heads have advantages and disadvantages but the advantages of an aluminum far out weigh the advantages of an iron head. JMO __________________ James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier.

02-15-2002, 11:44 AM	#12
avbcon12 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: West Bloomfield, MI Posts: 391	hi guys, im not saying that people dont run them without problems. i know many people that have run them without any. so you dont have to "set me straight". i just brought up another oppinion that i have experienced with at my work... for my daily driven summer mustang i dont really need the weight reduction or anything. thats why i stated it all depends on what your plans are for the car..... thanks, adam __________________ 90 GT black/ grey leather ported GT-40 heads w/ 1.7RR, Cobra intake w/ ported lower, 24# injectors, 190LPH pump, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 65mm TB, K&N panel, BBK long tubes, Off road H-pipe, 2 ch. Flowmaster, Black magic fan, Kirban FPR, 180 deg. T-stat, 3.73's, Steeda Tri-Ax, 130 amp alt. Accell 8.8 race wires/cap/rotor, motorcraft plugs, Factory Five suspension, etc etc etc.... http://avbcon12.stangnet.com