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Old 06-07-2002, 10:17 PM   #1
Stang_ROTY
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Question Does your BBK Throttle Body "whistle"?

Have you ever heard of BBK Throttle Body's needing a hole drilled into them (like carb's w/big cam's) when you run a large cam?? I gave my engine builder the phone # to FRPP's tech line and he got in touch with a dude at FRPP that runs a 393 stroker with a supercharer. Anyway, this guy gave him some good info (including the tip to drill the hole) and said that the edges on the BBK TB were too sharp and screw w/ the CPU at part throttle...plus make that whistle noise. My throttle body makes a whistle when I decelerate from a hard acceleration, something's wrong...
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Old 06-08-2002, 12:30 AM   #2
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Default mine does to...

i have 70mm TB and it whistles louders than a referee @ a basketball game. i had no clue what it was for about 2 months....then a buddy of mine asked if it was a BBK and i said yeah...he said thats the way they are....I said what a load of crap.......it whistles right off idle....at any speed......
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Old 06-08-2002, 01:43 PM   #3
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I have a BBK 70mm TB and have a very slight whistle but nothing you can hear unless you really pay attention.
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Old 06-08-2002, 03:44 PM   #4
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Default same here

My BBK 70 mm whistled when I had it too.
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Old 06-10-2002, 07:15 AM   #5
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My 65mm and 75mm do the same thing.... I thought I had a vacume leak but I couldn't find it anywhere. I wonder if I can roundout the edges of the butterfly, it will stop.
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Old 06-10-2002, 11:44 AM   #6
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My 70mm BBK whistles too. I've been thinking about getting a different brand b/c I hate the whistle!
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Old 06-10-2002, 01:42 PM   #7
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Mine whistles too. Either way it's ok w/ me., but if there's an easy way to make it stop....let me know.
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Old 06-10-2002, 01:55 PM   #8
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Weird... I have a 65mm but have never noticed any whistling! hmmmmm
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Old 06-10-2002, 02:07 PM   #9
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My engine builder is in constant communication with a guy from FRPP tech that owns a 393 w/supercharger. This guy is telling my engine builder to drill a small hole (about a 1/4 in.) into the butterfly to help with the idle and he also rounded the edges to make the whistling stop. He did it and guess what....it still idles like crap and the whistling is still there. Now the damn thing fluctuates when I start her and is having a tough time finding the idle. I also noticed that the timing mark disappeared when I plugged the SPOUT plug in. I wonder why?
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Old 06-10-2002, 02:53 PM   #10
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Drilling a hole in the butterfly only serves to increase idle speed. I tried it and thats what happened...makes sense, just letting more air in.

I had a 70MM BBK and it never whistled. I now have a FRPP 65MM and recommend it over the BBK (much higher quality)
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Old 06-10-2002, 03:26 PM   #11
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I got a 75mm BBK and it whistles too. Couple things i did HELP.. but dont get rid of it. First I adjusted my idle so it was around 750-800 Rpm. Made it noticably more quit. Second, clean out you idel air bypass with a heavy cleaner like a purple clean. I read a few post on this in the pass. An old post written by "MrClean" had some info in it as well.
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Old 06-11-2002, 12:43 AM   #12
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Ive had a bbk unit on my car for almost 4 years now and have never once heard a whistle, but now that you guys mention it I will open up my ears a bit.
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Old 06-11-2002, 10:03 AM   #13
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The problem is that she won't idle at 900 due to the cam. She really loads up a stoplight at starts to choke at idle. 950 is better, I know it's not good for the tranny but what else can I do??

My biggest concern is this whistle/squeal I hear coming from the underside of the upper manifold (around the Edelbrock cover area). It doesn't make the noise right away...usually takes about 30 seconds after startup to occur. I tried WD40 and a torchtip but couldn't find a leak. Thanks for the tip on cleaning the valve....sounds like something I should try.

Quote:
Originally posted by Ackbar00
I got a 75mm BBK and it whistles too. Couple things i did HELP.. but dont get rid of it. First I adjusted my idle so it was around 750-800 Rpm. Made it noticably more quit. Second, clean out you idel air bypass with a heavy cleaner like a purple clean. I read a few post on this in the pass. An old post written by "MrClean" had some info in it as well.
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Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 06-11-2002, 10:10 AM   #14
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Id say dont worry about it. Its kind of cool having different people asking what kind of supercharger i have. I just tell them its either a new F-4 or a XX trim.
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Old 06-11-2002, 11:01 AM   #15
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Flamed95stang nice sig.

Friend of mine his car does the same thing only his is worse than mine. I can't stand it sounds like something is wrong with your car.
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Old 06-11-2002, 11:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
The problem is that she won't idle at 900 due to the cam. She really loads up a stoplight at starts to choke at idle. 950 is better, I know it's not good for the tranny but what else can I do??

Why is a high idle speed (950 isnt that bad by the way, mine usually idles around 1000, no big deal) bad for the tranny??
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Old 06-11-2002, 03:25 PM   #17
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I wouldn't mind it so much if my vacuum didn't fluctuate. WHatever the problem is it's causing me to fluctuate 2 inches of vacuum, from around 11.5 to 13-14 simultaneous with the whistle from underneath the upper manifold. This is all about 30 seconds after the engine runs.
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Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 06-11-2002, 03:29 PM   #18
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I was told by the guys at Dynamic Racing that the idle should be around 850-900. Harold @ Dynamic said it's just harder on the tranny internals to go from park to drive and drive to reverse @ higher idle speeds. But after what they did to the tranny on the dyno (it was amazing to watch) I find it hard to believe that ANYTHING under 900 HP would hurt this tranny.

Quote:
Originally posted by Mach 1


Why is a high idle speed (950 isnt that bad by the way, mine usually idles around 1000, no big deal) bad for the tranny??
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Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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Old 06-11-2002, 04:05 PM   #19
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Just out of curiosity, are your valve springs okay with your new cam? Who adjusted the valves? How long does the vacuum needle jump 2 inches? Is it steady when that stops?

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Old 06-11-2002, 04:15 PM   #20
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by PKRWUD
[B]Just out of curiosity, are your valve springs okay with your new cam?
I was told by the people @ Edelbrock tech. that the valve springs should be okay with the cam. I'll call and ask again if you think I should.

Who adjusted the valves?
I assume my engine builder did the valve adjustment but I'll check with him tonight and get back to you.

How long does the vacuum needle jump 2 inches?
Split seconds. The needle jumps simultaneous with the whistle from underneath the upper manifold (appx. 30 seconds after the engine starts) and coincides with the idle fluctuation

Is it steady when that stops?
Yes it is. It was steady prior to the idle fluctuating also.
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Best E.T. - 12.41/Best MPH = 108
Engine is a 1969 351 block w/393 stroker kit. Dynamic Roller Myte C4, 8 pt cage. Edlebrock Performer heads and Victor Jr. EFI, FRPP 30lb injectors & Cartech fuel system. MSD ignition. Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, adj. upper's, 3.73's, Koni rear shocks, much more
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