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		#1 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				
				
				
					Posts: 2
				 
				
				
				
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			 I am replacing my heater core today. I am going to start pulling everything apart at the moment. What other parts can I replace while the dash is wide open. I am replacing heater core, I also heard there is an evaporator core?? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Any help is appreciated on what parts to replace while it is apart. Thanks  | 
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		#2 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Jul 2002 
				Location: biloxi, ms 
				
				
					Posts: 7
				 
				
				
				
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			 Have fun!!!! 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	1994 GT cobra intake, 1" spacer, BBK CAI, 75mm MAF, 65mm Tbody, 24# injectors, off road hpipe, 2 chamber flows w/ dumps, mallory AFPR, tremec 3550, hays hd clutch, alluminum d/s, pro 5.0 short throw shifter. Waiting in th shadows....... 306ci, 10.2:1 compression, edelbrock performer rpm heads, 2.02/1.60 valves, X303 cam, scorpion 1.72 rockers.  | 
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		#3 | 
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			 Mustangs 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Jul 2000 
				
				
				
					Posts: 1,938
				 
				
				
				
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			 Since you're going to have the dash out you might as well replace the instument cluster back lights. Pretty cheap bulbs and not too hard to replace anyway, but since you're in there. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem   1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 ![]() 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)  | 
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		#4 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2002 
				
				
				
					Posts: 158
				 
				
				
				
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			 If you haven't already noticed, the instrument cluster circuitry is a plastic film with wiring embedded in it.  It is very fragile at the connection point.  If you accidentally tear one of the connections, you will, of course, lose some gauges/lights.  If you try driving around without the dash torn apart and the cluster disconnected, your alternator will NOT charge the battery.  The voltage source which excites the alternator at startup shares the same circuit as the cluster.  One way to excite it manually is to blip the throttle to redline redline shortly after startup.   
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	Haynes manual requires disconnecting AC lines. Article in MM&FF (sorry don't remember which date) does the job without it. Good luck. Keep all screws in carefully labeled baggies or you'll end up with dash squeeks.  | 
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