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10-30-2002, 01:27 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Sanford NC USA
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Roll Cage.. to be or not to be??
I am at the point with my car that I think I need a Roll Cage if not a full cage just a 4 point bar. the car has run 10.60's.. on the sauce and 11.70's on motor.. I was debating on installin a bar will it pick it up or slow it down? The car hooks really good..carryin the front wheels out 20ft "maybe" the car is a 5 speed too.... will an automatic help it go faster...
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88 Hatch 10.60's @ 130 89 Hatch Not as fast but holds its own |
10-30-2002, 12:21 PM | #2 |
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My opinion...If your going 12's you need a cage. Period. Oh well so it might slow your car down 2 thousandths but what's worse slowing down or not walking away from the track if something unforseen happens. Anything 12's is gonna be above 100 MPH. and your goin 10's Just my thinking but a crash at 100 is gonan hurt real bad, whats it gonna do at mid 10's
Bradley
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1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator |
10-30-2002, 12:35 PM | #3 |
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A minimum of a 5-pt roll bar is required in NHRA at 11.99. Over in IHRA its a 6-pt roll bar at 11.49. Don't skirt the safety issues, there's just too much at stake. I'm real disappointed in your local track if they've allowed you to run as fast as 10.60 without a roll bar of any sorts. It puts not only their insurance at risk, but the insurance for every other track under the same sanctioning body.
Do the right thing and install the bar.
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Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!" |
11-04-2002, 12:18 AM | #4 |
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my car is a street machine, so what bars do they sell that will look as good as it function. also my car is a hatchback and i want to be able to use the backseat. Jeff thanx for your replies man
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88 Hatch 10.60's @ 130 89 Hatch Not as fast but holds its own |
11-04-2002, 04:25 AM | #5 |
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Check out Mustangs Plus. I am not sure they have a lot of 5.0 stuff, but they had 4 point cages with rear seat access, and were selling the front 2 point pieces to build a 6 point street type cage.
I think you will find that the stiffer chassis will have more control at launch and be more predictable at every shift. At 11 seconds, a change to an automatic will not net you much time. It will only provide you with consistent times. Even then you will need a high stall converter and a trans brake. If you run an AOD expect to pay at least a thousand for one that really cooks at the track. I like B&M and Lentech for AOD strip transmissions. If you want to go fast, and want a street car just stay with the 5 speed. I really like cornering and autocrossing. The 6 point cage will help you there too. Your car will be safer. And you will be amazed by how much better it corners with a good suspension. My early 66 mustang has about a .94 G cornering ability. The shop that helped me with subframe connectors has early mustangs running better than 1 G. In 100 ft circle that means the car can exceed 70 mph. That is cornering ability. You know what they did to get more than 1 G????? They put in a 10 point roll cage. Just like you find in any 9 second quarter mile car. Hope this helps. Give Mustangs Plus a call. If they cannot help you, I am sure they can point you in the right direction.
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1966 Customized for daily street and highway domination. 358 Windsor running 425 HP C-4 Auto and 3.25 Posi |
11-04-2002, 09:52 PM | #6 |
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Any mustang in the 10s needs a roll cage, street car or drag car. Added structural stability and SAFETY.
A strong enough auto, say a Lentech AOD (w/ transbrake) for your 10sec car, is gonna cost you around $3k. Put in the cage and get it overwith. I cannot give you much advice on a cage that still permits practical back seat usage cause I just went with a good, mild steel 6-point cage from S&W Race Cars. Nothing fancy, but looks good and works great.
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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
11-04-2002, 10:15 PM | #7 |
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go with the cage. it will make your car handle better and launch better overall. downside, it just a little more weight in your car. another incentive to put more horses under the hood!
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